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#11
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Fully inspect cross members for cracks. The transfer case one is notorious for cracking at the frame bolt holes. If there aren't, you should go a head and reinforce it with some flat strap and longer bolts. Also the "hoop" cross member behind the transfer case can have cracks also. I have even cracked the cross member under the bell housing. You can run center dump manifolds on that truck since it is 4x4, you don't have to stay with the rear dumps. I have done it.
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#12
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I've cracked bell housing crossmembers as well.
Also keep an eye on the crossmember frame bolts on a regular basis. Mine liked to loosen every so often. I'd check them every six months or so depending on how hard it was worked. |
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#13
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Stu, yep the 480 has chain drive too. Not sure if there's room to run a pto shaft stright to it, probably not. I'll do a little diggin on a disc conversion for both axles though if I do I'll try to source some late model calipers and rotors for parts availibility. Any idea of overall height of theose Dodge rotors?
Eric, or anyone, what about the big Mopar 110A alternators? Anyone ever try one on an SV? I've had a couple on Dodge trucks over the years and they were fairly reliable and have my desired external reg. No idea on how/if they fit the engine... Nekbinders ans Stroker, broken crossmembers? Really? I had seen mention of the Tcase crossmember cracking at the ends but the bellhousing one too? As far as the t case crossmember, what about eliminating the mounting bushings and bolting it solid? I can live with noise/vibration or does this throw other things out of whack? Oh and my truck cam stock with center dump manifolds. |
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#14
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I should have been more specific....the PTO on the right side of the T19 had a solid shaft that linked to a small transfer gearbox mounted on a bracket that attached to the frame or crossmember under the body. The gearbox had a bicycle style sprocket that drove a link chain that turned the big gearbox on the bed. I guess they are the same setup. Maybe I can find a pic?
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#15
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OK Stu, I see what you're describing. No mines a bit different. PTO box on pass side of trans with u joint, pto shaft up to a pillow block and u joint on the drivers side frame, a short shaft through pillow block to support small drive gear then the chain to the winch. I'm not thrilled with the way the pto shaft is currently routed and the 5 speed has the pto on the drivers side which will require redoing the pto shaft anyway. I can get rid of some goofy angles when I redo it. I'm not so sure the pto shaft and chain drive are really part of the wrecker unit or if that was up to whoever did the original install.
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#16
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Is there a "D series rust thread" like the infamous "C series rust thread" from a few years back? I was searching to figure out what the common problem area are on these things so I can keep my nice cab nice.
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#17
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Quote:
top of the winshield before it starts curving down rockers/corners floorboards cab vent boxes behind the back of the fender the channel under the fender bolt panel on the wiper cowling for the top 2 fender bolts any seam near wiper cowl level inside/out |
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#18
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The bell cross member will crack longitudinally then out to its edge. My 1300 has done it twice: 392, T36, 8000 actual weight.
__________________
Doc Stewart "Tough Old Geezer" Charter member: IH Old Hippie Club Last edited by Doc Stewart; 02-20-2010 at 09:11 AM. |
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#19
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Giving a little more thought to rust preventon. Has anyone done galvanizing? I know Rover guys do it all the time but it doesn't seem so popular in the states. Why not? Does it cause problems?
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