MiniBuild #14 ~ Project Baja Racer

[Damian Grihalva]

Fits tight ~ almost like they were made for each other!


Holing the bracket up to the axle housing.


The other reason I used PolyPerformance's bracket was that it offsets itself so that you can push it really close to the knuckle AND still fit a coil-over next to it (sloped back that is).


It'll need trimming to get to the final fitment, but you guys get the idea.

For those of you who dont know, the goal is to get the track bar as long as the DragLink will be. This will minimize bump-steer. Normally you can get away with having a difference, since most people don't abuse their stuff like this will. But considering the rig will see more time in the air than most scouts on jack-stands ~ its important to minimize bumpsteer.

That's all the time I have today folks. Maybe later ~ maybe more.

[Tom Mandera]

Originally Posted by Damian Grihalva

Next I have to say a BIG THANK YOU to Mike @ IH Only in Lancaster. He's the guy behind the RPT line and he hooked us up with some of his finest.

You can always tell a successful line of product when you see you have #2930!

#1147 is the one I damaged in 2006. It had been in the racer since 2001. Either 1146 or 1148 is still in the racer.

I've had good luck with IHOnly's mounts.

[Architectdave]

Originally Posted by Damian Grihalva

If there any weep hole to allow water to drain out of this pocket? Also how do you keep it from geting filled with mud or even just the right size rock to tear it up?

BTW love all the pictures they are too cool.

[Tom Mandera]

Originally Posted by Architectdave

If there any weep hole to allow water to drain out of this pocket? Also how do you keep it from geting filled with mud or even just the right size rock to tear it up?

BTW love all the pictures they are too cool.

I'm not sure where it currently sits, but as I'd discussed with Damian, there will be a drain hole on the inboard side (so you can't see it when installed) at the bottom of the "V" pocket to allow some of the grit to be rinsed out.

The pocket was welded up so that the entire trailing arm doesn't fill with crud, so it just means there's a smaller pocket to fill with crud.

Adding the V pockets also stiffens the arm up considerably, since it's acting like a torsion tube when articulated.

[Damian Grihalva]

What he said, but I didn't drill the drain hole yet, I'll let TOm do that.

[Damian Grihalva]

Got a few minutes..

Cage was just hanging out for a bit, but I finally got to put some work into it.


The outer section worked out good ~ took a CRAPLOAD of flapper-wheel work to get the notches just right ~ landing on the curve wasn't the best idea.


Middle X started.


...more...


Welding it up


Sweet ~ it holds Pauls hand up, its gotta be strong enough..


And with that, I'm outta time...more coming.

[Damian Grihalva]

A little more.

Here's our junkyard 9-inch. I was pleased to find a 78 F150 that was clean, straight and without anything taken yet and saw this rather clean 9-inch. You know, I went to the 'cheap' junkyard (sells any axle for $99 regardless of what it is) to pick this up trying to save a buck on the build. Turns out that they now charge for the drums AND a core charge for the axle

At least its in good shape.

Even with ~ freakin thing was dirty. Luckily not as much goopy stuff, but it did cover me is silt.


Swept & pulled the 'new' axle under the chassis

~ Here's another pet peave. Why is it I can take a freakin wire wheel to the whole frame and most of what's left of the body and still get misc crap covering the ground under the scout?

Pulled out the axle dolley to help move the axle around.


Test fitted the truss ~ made sure it'll fit.



Welded on the lower link mounts. I put them below the axle centerline ~ Normally I wouldn't do this, but this time I did to keep the joint-to-mount 'deflection' to nothing.


Pinion angles a little high, but looks pretty good.


Since the axle was in, I was able to get the end-all wheel base. It'll be about 116.5" ~ should make for a comfy and stable ride.

[Damian Grihalva]

We last saw our hero rescueing a damsel in distress...

Oh ~ sorry, wrong alter-ego:shaking:

Well it was time to center the axle under the frame and install the rear upper links. Normally they are tapped 1.75 x .281" DOM ~ this time they're 1.75" DOM with weld-in bungs to save weight.


Couple more vies.



Then we were robbed.

(no rear frame)

After confirming the truss was centered and such, we gusseted it back to the housing. The nice thing about Ford 9-inch axles is that they're steel, so you can weld to any part of them.


Gussets from the truss to the top of the tube via bumper drops.


Top trussing done.

[Damian Grihalva]

A bit ago, Tom told me a story about a string ~ push the string, pull the string ~ Something about a string. We started the conversation with trussing and how he wanted the bottom of the axle trussed so I figured the string was a medifor (sp) for life and family.

With that, we put the axle on its lid


Broke out some long cardboard.


Made pictures with chalk ~ (Ahem...soapstone)

The metal used was 2x3 box (3/16" thick) what we use for our Signature Sliders. It seemed to be in supply, and more importantly fit the contour we were trying to gusset.

So with a little bit of cutting with the plasma, some grinding with a well-used flapper wheel, and a whole lot of dust and patience.


Then more of the same...

I'm telling you folks. With all the consumables I've been using on this beast, I wouldn't be surprised at all if I used well over $100 in JUST consumables ~ you know, cut-off wheels, plasma tips/electrodes, welding tips, grinding wheels, flapper wheels, and sanding wheels. Luckily, the wire brush seems to be holding up like a champ. Its almost like they're made of metal!

Then after what seemed to be an eternity of welding, then letting it cool, then welding, the letting it cool, then....well, you get the picture. The axle assembly wieghed in at close to a billion pounds, but was ready to be put back into the chassis.

From the back


Side(ish)


Back on the jackstands.


Ok Tom. We need a few things here. I need some measurements. I want to know how much room (in inches please) between your current frame rail (bottom of) and the axle (top of). Since we are going with 35s on this beast, and you currently run 31s, lets figure out how much room you want. Please, include what you currently have, and what you want.

Second, I'm going to need to mock up the steering so I need knuckles, spindles (have them), wheelbearings and hubs (if possible) so I can put this thing together. I want to set up the trackbar up front AND the HySteer ~ getting that finalized.

I'd also like to get some 35s (most likely from a local guy) so that I can put the front fenders/clip on and mock up the engine cage and fender mounts/tabs as well ~ wouldn't want to trim the fenders wrong or put a piece of tube where the tires are going to be.

I will also be needing some quarterpanels to mock up the rear tube work. As you can see, the rear frame is gone. I may be ******* more of it, but I didn't want to cut before the crossmember until I made another to make sure nothing moves.

Sidenotes:
1) Cutting the rear frame off was great, lots of room to move in the shop (spelled 'g-a-r-a-g-e') now.

2) Please also note that while I was working on the rear axle, Tom was out having fun 'racing' (you have to picture me making quotation marks with my fingers while you say 'racing' ~ it adds an element of sarcasm that wouldn't be there otherwise ~ of course, I'm just poking fun at Tom ~ but still, get the full effect and imagine it). :laughing:

3) Also notice that the garage was open with daylight making pictures hard at first, and now the door is closed, its snowing and there is no sign of daylight outside the garage-door windows. Just another Saturday at the Grihalva home.

[Damian Grihalva]

IF ANYONE HAS SOME 118" QUARTER PANELS, PLEASE HELP, WE'RE DESPERATE. EITHER somewhat rusty if fine but cleanly cut off so I can ue them for skins, or if someone is nice enough to help the build with some new FB ones, even at a discounted price, that would be great! Please let me know.