How to wire snow plow solenoid?

[Dave Meyers]

Thanks guys. We have had a lot of zero and some sub zero weather, and record snowfalls. That's what prompted me to get the plow. Even if I don't get to use it this season, it'll be there for the next. A couple more work-hours and she'll be finished. But, I am going to San Diego for a week for work and maybe the weather will be improving by the time I return.

[RALLEN]

Originally Posted by Dennis Bernth

On your Meyer pump, the 'lower' function is run by one of the three seperate coil and valve assemblies on the pump unit. You should be able to tell which one by where it's located on the pump.....first, put the control switch in the 'lower' position and see if you're getting 12v to the wire to that coil assembly. If not, that's your problem, but it probably isn't, I'm never that lucky.....if you have juice out there, put the switch on 'lower' and take a screwdriver and put it near the small nut on the top of the coil. If the coil is working, it will be 'magnetized' and will attract anything metal. The lower function works by the coil 'magnetizing' and pulling open the lowering valve that lets the fluid out. If the coil isn't magnetized with the switch on 'lower', it's bad....if it is, it's most likely the valve itself. You may be able to free up the valve, but if it was me I'd just buy the coil/valve assembly if the coil is bad. There are cut rate plow parts places on the 'net that you can save quite a bit on parts, and there is no need to rebuild the pump for just this problem.

Good advice.

I know little to nothing about Western and Meyer but my Fisher was acting similar to Nakmans this winter. It was raising / turning slow and wouldn't drop or turn in one direction every now and then. I change the fluid every fall so I originaly thought the pump was getting weak and or the valve was going but a 'for the heck of it' adjustment at the valve body corrected the slow operation so I checked a few connections and it turned out to be a weak one causing the plow to stop every so often.

[Dennis Bernth]

Yeah, the old Westerns are really good plows. The one that Dave has (he got it from me) has the newer 'joystick' with the black cables, so he should be fine. The old T handles were good too, the main problem with them is that they're so old that they're just flat worn out by now.
For the ice in the plow problem, a Western dealer told me years ago to add a little gas line antifreeze ('Heet') to the ATF in the pump. There are two kinds, I think the kind he specified was the kind that wasn't isopropanol, but it's been a while. I know I did it for several years and never had a problem with the plow freezing up after that.

[blybrook]

I have read above that you have figured out the wiring. Congrats. I did take some photos after I plowed my road / driveway for the neighbors and got ready to open the rear diff.

Attached are a couple of photos of my solenoid that is attached to the Northman plow (if I stated Northway earlier, I was in error). The pump and solenoid are also Northman parts, but I do have an accessory wire coming off of the hot line that feeds my switches for the angle / lift solenoids built into the pump. (Plow frame says Northman 2200 Deluxe series.)

The other pictures show the multitude of wires that are feeding into my pump assembly for the lift / angle options. The green wire has been disconnected by the PO as it was only used to turn off the headlight assembly of the plow frame and use the stock system, but the plow frame has much better lighting

Bill

[Brian Rognon]

Here is a great site for all your plowing questions.

http://www.plowsite.com/


It has been a great help for me earlier this year. I hope it helps.

Brian