PROJECT: INTL 4X4 - 1968 Travelall 4x4

[LeeC]

Good day to all that read this thread! Directly below is a Table of Contents by post number for key items within. I don’t know if this has been done before, but I thought this might help readers to locate specific search items within the thread as it grows in size. This project will be ongoing for as long as I own this 68 Travelall 4x4. I sincerely hope it helps you with your Travelall project(s). Enjoy the read. Lee

Post #31 Rare glimpse of a 72 International Wagonmaster crewcab pickup unibody
Post #36 Corporate 14 bolt information links (and #38)
Post #50 78 GM ¾ ton Heavy Duty Dana 44 disc brake front axle install parts list
Post #55 68 Travelall one-man body removal
Post #56 Scored a T-35 5 speed trans - info starts here

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Time to start working on my 1968 Travelall 4x4 project that I towed home over three years ago. I will call it my “INTL 4X4” as that is what the personalized license plate now says. Here it is the day it arrived back in 2003:



This poor Farm-Boy Travelall came with a make-shift lift using three spacers in the back totaling 8 inches and one 2.5 inch spacer ON THE FRONT AXLE The overall truck is virtually rust free, with only a few spots that will need attention in that regard.

I originally bought it as a parts truck for my stable of three other Travelalls at the time. Now I only have a 1972 Travelall 4x4 with 392V8 and a rusty body. This 68 Travelall has a clean body, so… the natural thing to do is a body swap of the 68 body onto the 72 running 4x4 chassis, at least that’s the plan.

I have always liked the 60’s Travelall round-body the best, but appreciate the newer axles with modern disc brakes and power steering. So far I have managed to pick up a Dana 44 Heavy Duty 8-lug disc brake front axle and a Corporate 14 bolt 8-lug rear that I have converted to disc brakes and installed a new Detroit Locker. In addition, I managed to steal a complete set of new take-off Hummer H2 wheels and tires that I’m sure some Flat-Lander pimped out with 22’s or something similar that will never see dirt in its lifetime .

The Dana 44 front has been installed in the 72, but the steering is not finalized. The H2 wheels have a large offset that pulls the tires back in on the 2” wider Chebby axles. So far it looks like it will all clear okay. The Corporate 14 bolt is still in pieces ready for assembly. I’ll be running 411’s with 315/70R17 BFG T/A KO’s (~34.5”). Both trucks have 4-speeds, but I do have a good 1975 automatic sitting in the chicken coup. I think my choice would be a 5-speed T-35 (7.17 down to 1.00, no OD), but do not have one of those yet. Here is the 72 with front fenders off, D44 in and H2 wheels on:



That is about it for the first post on this long-term project. Any and all recommendations are welcome, as this project is currently in its infancy. I am sure I will have many questions as time goes on.

[John Donnelly]

Nice to see another 68 gettin' the treatment it deserves.

Good luck on your project, Lee!

-John

[Jeff Jamison]

Iam also in the process of building my second 68 travelall,got rid of the first.This one started as a 1000,I pulled the body myself and put an 1100 4x4 frame under it.Used floor jacks,jack stands and long 4x4's.But if your frame is not rotted why change it.Its almost the same as the newer frames just with the cab mounts in diffrent places.Its much easier just putting your axles ,engine and tranny on the 68 frame.
Jeff

[LeeC]

Originally Posted by Jeff Jamison

Iam also in the process of building my second 68 travelall,got rid of the first.This one started as a 1000,I pulled the body myself and put an 1100 4x4 frame under it.Used floor jacks,jack stands and long 4x4's.But if your frame is not rotted why change it.Its almost the same as the newer frames just with the cab mounts in diffrent places.Its much easier just putting your axles ,engine and tranny on the 68 frame.
Jeff

Jeff -

Do you have a thread started for your project? If so, post it here. I'll add it to my subscriptions.

The frame on the 68 really needs to be striped and painted. The frame on the 72 is cleaner, plus has a nice Reese trailer hitch welded in some spots. The 72 frame is longer in the back. I'm hoping I don't have to cut any off. I think it just fills the space between the end of the 68 frame and the body (?). I want to do a "frame up" clean-up and paint, so either way I'd prefer to pull the body off. If one had started life as a 3/4 or 1 ton, then I'd use that one, but... sadly both are 1/2 tons

How are the cab mounts different? I thought the only change was the thickness of the center front clip mount. Guess not?

[Jim Grammer]

Originally Posted by Lee Caldwell

The 72 frame is longer in the back. I'm hoping I don't have to cut any off.

You really should cut about 1/2" off the frame rails, if you don't it's *really* close to hitting the inside of the rear 'roll panel'

How are the cab mounts different? I thought the only change was the thickness of the center front clip mount. Guess not?

The main mounts under the cowl are in a slightly different location. IIRC the frame 'horns' need to be moved forward so that the front center mount lines up.

[John Donnelly]

One day we will have to get the 68's together for a adventure trip and photo op.

-John

[LeeC]

Thanks Jim. Should I pull the front body mounts off the 68 frame and put them on the 72 frame? Or is it easiest to just remove the 72's and move them forward?

[Mark Ashford]

At Lee's request I have moved this thread to General TechTalk for greater exposure. It seems to have done well in Skunkworks but I agree that there are many folks that would intrested in the tech and knowlege contained that don't frequent or ever visit that forum.



Keep up the good work!

[LeeC]

I have two '72 NP205's (gear driven) that are loose and one '68 NP203 (chain driven) that is tight. I also have two '72 transfercase mounts that are cracked and in need of repair and one '68 transfercase mount setup that is in great shape. My INTL4X4 TRAVELALL PROJECT has a 392V8 mated to a T-35 5-speed with Chebby 3/4 ton axles and 34.5" BFG AT's. I'm wondering what setup I should use?

1) Is the older '68 transfercase mounting setup stronger and better than the redesigned '72? (as both '72 cross members are cracked and bent) Is this caused by the extra set of rubber mounts giving too much flex? (the '68 only has the top four rubber mounts and the frame mounts are thick strong metal bolted directly to the frame)

2) If the NP203 is tighter (less slop) when grabbing the yokes and moving them in opposite directions, should I use the NP203? (I'm assuming less wear?)

3) What are the advantages of the NP203 chain driven transfercase vs. the NP205 gear driven transfercase? (I've heard some say they like the chain driven better, but never get a clarification why other than sometimes making it easier to disengage the 4x4)

My INTL4X4 project is using a '72 Travelall frame and '68 Travelall body. I'm doing a body-off, frame-up job. It looks like the '68 transfercase mounting setup can easily be installed on the '72 frame, so any combination of mounts and transfercases can be used. Your advice and opinions needed. Thanks.

[jeepdaddy2000]

The NP 203 is an early full time case. In my opinion not worth the iron they are made of. The chains stretch and need replacement which is a real PITA. Somewhere around 75 the differential went from a hardened case to a stamped steel affair which spits the front engagement teeth. This is especially prevalent with MM part time conversions. The 205, however, is a good strong part time case. If you suspect a problem with it pop it open and inspect it.