Original gauges reading low - fix

[MrWolf]

My temperature and oil pressure gauge has been reading low since I got the Scout last year and I finally got around to look at them yesterday.
First replaced the mechanical voltage regulator with one of the new solid-state regulator kits. Temperature gauge then worked as intended, but oil pressure didn't move at all.
I first thought I had destroyed something in there while mounting the new regulator, but after pulling it again and dis-assembly of the gauge it proved all to be pretty sturdy parts. After cleaning all contact surfaces thoroughly, both gauges now work beautifully :-)


I didn't take any pictures, so this one from super scout specialists will have to do.

So; step by step:

-Remove dash gauge trim piece (screws along edges only)
-Remove temp/oil gauge cluster (two screws only)
-Carefully pull the multi-wire connector (a little spray of WD40 or similar might help ease so you don't pull those pins out of the board)
-Remove all screws and nuts from the rear of the instrument cluster
-Lift the circuit board off the gauge studs to separate the gauge
-Using a dremel with a copper or steel brush, scuff with a knife or similar.., remove corrosion buildup from the contact surfaces. You might scuff the contact surface of the nuts and the studs of the guages with a fine steel file.
-Replace all parts and install in dash.
-Enjoy your, now hopefully, functioning gauges!

You might replace the voltage regulator with a solid state or a new mechanical one if you like, but chances are your old one is perfectly all right.


Years of corrosion slowly leads to increased resistance, bad contact, and then the needles wont move or move less than usual. For temperature this actually could be dangerous as you wont see the needle rise prior to the engine boiling or running out of coolant. Being used to running with a low reading for oil pressure probably isn't a good idea either.

[jeff campbell]

thats kool to know Mr.Wolf,thx.now the "SUN gaugeCo.,will go broke?" jeff

[Dennis Bernth]

Where did you get the solid state CVR, and how much? My previous source dried up.

[Sco(u)tt]

Very good. I would like to add, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST! When the metal posts on the guage contact the metal dash you will experience an exciting sparky spark party and likely fry other parts. Ask me how I know.

[Thomas]

---Excelent. Happy to hear you repaired the problem & are happy with the results of your work. Hope it outlasts three bodies. How much was the unit & where can others find them?

~Offering preemptive "Thank You"s from all in the community~

---A word of advice (as was suggested to me roughly 10 years ago regarding cleaning a PCB, when I used 1200 grit wetsand); Do not use anything abrasive to clean them, but instead use a pencil eraser (not* pen eraser). This topic has been digested much on this board, topics ranging from CVRs to gauge illumination & minibulb sockets, & once, a special board cleaning eraser found at electrical supply has even been suggested. Having drafting/design under my belt, I have a good supply of rubber & synthetic erasers to choose from, so rather than be picky & wasteful using the expensive/special ones, I use my run-of-the-mill, 50¢ Sanford Magic Rub (vinyl) Drafting Film/Tracing Paper Art Eraser. Very gentle & shines the copper circuit with little effort. The same exact material/product can be found in packs of 3, as refills for an eraser stick for about $3 @ Wally*World. If you feel the need for expansive products, you can even use the tires from a White Lightning.

---There is also an electric eraser in the dremel variety if you polish miniatures, draft or play with PCBs often. Nice tool for sure.

---Just an idea of how long this has been an issue.. lol. The original write-up about solid state CVRs was made just after I found a replacement (mopar) CVR that would have required altering the board's circuitry & pretty much the installation of a 9v battery pigtail. That was about 1999 & that specific CVR has apparently become obsolete like ours. There was even someone on the old board, soliciting manufactured copies of another's solution for Muskanks... $100 a pop for $7 in materials!

---There's much on the net regarding the SS conversion of CVRs for other makes such as mid-60s Muskanks as well as venugen Beetles & such. Mustang owns the bragging rights to original internet write-up... LOL. Those buggers. In a recent reply, I posted two or three links to such sites that show How-to so no one has to feed the greed if they can't afford even those from the helpful & generous.

[MrWolf]

Thanks for the replies I just bought the kit from scoutparts. Very easy to install but probably possible to get it way cheaper just buying the separate parts from radioshack or similar. I read that post on solid state relays DIY in the knowledge base but decided just to get the kit. Lazy...

Anyway i think many gauges might be saved without buying updating the CVR. Just try cleaning the contact surfaces first. Cheap and easy


Erik

[Eric VanBuren]

Originally Posted by MrWolf

Thanks for the replies I just bought the kit from scoutparts.

Ouch!

Originally Posted by MrWolf

Anyway i think many gauges might be saved without buying updating the CVR. Just try cleaning the contact surfaces first. Cheap and easy


Erik

Yes the majority of the time the gauges can be brought back into calibration, calibration that won't be affected by ambient temperature like the "solid state" regulator, simply by cleaning and tightening the nuts that connect the gauge to the circuit board or better yet replacing the cheap stamped steel nuts with quality brass ones and a good cleaning.

[MrWolf]

Thanks for the replies I just bought the kit from scoutparts. Very easy to install but probably possible to get it way cheaper just buying the separate parts from radioshack or similar. I read that post on solid state relays DIY in the knowledge base but decided just to get the kit. Lazy...

Anyway i think many gauges might be saved without buying updating the CVR. Just try cleaning the contact surfaces first. Cheap and easy


Erik