Fuel tank removal tips?

[Longhorn Al]

My first observation after crawling under the truck is that I don't know how to access the nuts on the tank strap bolt by the rear bumper. I don't have anything that will fit up in there at that angle. How do you get to them in order to drop the tank? Or do you do the other end of the straps first and drop the tank?

What should I detach before dropping it? What will I have to detach after dropping it a bit?

As an aside, the service manual is little help to me. I'm quite frustrated with the page numbering system and the lack of basic information for projects like this.

[joker51]

Some people have stated a deep well socket works. When I did mine I had to remove the metal bar (flat iron at about 20* angle) across the back just under the J bolts, the thick steel with 3 bolts in it. Then I was able to use the socket. But I did get it some with just the wrench. Remove the back ones first on the straps. The front bolts can stay in unless you plan on replacing the straps or painting them.

Joker51

[rbelflower]

Obviously drain as much fuel out as you can.
If you can't get at the bolts to the rear, remove the ones in the front.
They are much easier to get to, but when you go to reinstall it, you'll have to deal with the back bolts.
I used a deep socket and extensions.. never had an issue..
I hope this helps.

[Darrell Tuxworth]

I'm assuming you are working on the Scout listed in your profile.
Remove the filler/vent and evaporator lines from the drivers side. Drop the tank until you can just reach on top to get the fuel supply line and sender wire disconnected. Watch as you drop the tank so you don't stretch the hose or wire.
As mentioned get as much fuel out as possible...even get a cheap electric pump and use it to drain the rest of the fuel into gas cans. It isn't to bad of a job when empty but with even 2 or 3 gallons sloshing around in there it can be tough to balance.
Darrell

[bdgn01]

Al,

My thread may be a little help to you. I dropped my tank a couple months ago, and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. We used an air gun with a long extension to get to the nuts behind the bumper–with the body lift on my rig, it was very easy to see and access everything, so I'm not sure why you're having problems getting to them. As Darrell said above, drain the tank (I used a $10 Harbor Freight siphon), disconnect all the evap and access hoses, loosen the J-hook bolts, and lower the tank slowly so as not to strain the sender wiring. Two people will make it easier. Let me know if you have specific questions and I'll try to fill in as many blanks as I can.

[dkterra]

Originally Posted by joker51

Some people have stated a deep well socket works. When I did mine I had to remove the metal bar (flat iron at about 20* angle) across the back just under the J bolts, the thick steel with 3 bolts in it. Then I was able to use the socket. But I did get it some with just the wrench. Remove the back ones first on the straps. The front bolts can stay in unless you plan on replacing the straps or painting them.

Joker51

These worked best for removing the nuts for my rigs. Worked great and didn't have to remove anything prior to.


http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search=fl...sid=21x1356180

[Longhorn Al]

Thanks, y'all.

Forced our way to those rear nuts. Kinda bent that piece of metal a bit, but not bad. Broke most of the hoses in half trying to disconnect them. Doesn't matter since I have the new stuff already. The tank is so dry, I didn't have to bother draining it. Not an errant drop at all.

The plastic separator beside the filler has a hole in the bottom of it. Not sure if a small hose neck broke off, or what. I'll have to look closer at it. If not, I'll just melt some plastic and fill the hole.