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#1
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The original radiator in my '74 had become paper thin; it was to the point that too big of a bug would knock a hole in it! After a lot of looking I saw 2 solutions: have it recored locally ($450) or sending it to the shop in this thread:
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...adiator+recore This was very tempting but would still be $325-350 by the time shipping was factored in. With money being tight I really wanted to find some other way. Was there something common that could be retrofitted without it looking totally redneck? First, my truck is a 6 cylinder and I realize this likely won't work for SV applications, but I had to share. I was looking at the radiators in various trucks, either in person or on Rock Auto. We have an '89 F150 with a 300 and I could see rigging that one up but it would never look right-too wide, too modern looking, the hoses would be a pain to figure out, totally different mounting. Chevy, Dodge, no go, inlets/outlets all wrong. Then it hit me: another pickup used the 258 in '74 and all it took was a few clicks on the Rock to show me a picture of the radiator for a '74-75 Jeep J-series. Not exact, to be sure, but somewhat similiar side-mounts, and it was in-stock for less than $200. But what if I couldn't make it work? I tried to catch a guy I know who owns a 70s Cherokee but he was evasive. I do a lot of business with 1-800-RADIATOR but they didn't stock it so I couldn't just order it and return it if it didn't work out. After a lot of head scratching I stumbled upon this simple fact: the full-size used the same part as the CJ! (some catalogs refused to believe that the J-series ever came with a 6, complicating my search) Cut to the chase, I ended up ordering it from NAPA. A little more expensive (around $215) but I had it within hours of ordering and a return would be no hassle; no shipping charges, either. With the new radiator in hand I did some comparisons. While the IH part is crossflow the Jeep is downflow (tanks on top/bottom instead of sides). The overall width was almost exactly the width of the IH core. For a moment (well, overnight!) my plan was to actually cut the core out of the IH rad and mount the new part between the tanks, using them, essentially, as brackets. But then I came up with my ultimate plan. Go ahead and laugh, I can take it! A 2x4. ![]() It made the perfect bracket/filler. A rough-cut probably would have done better; I had to use some washers to get it just right. ![]() The height was no problem. I needed new hoses anyway (the old ones dated from the 90s) and I found that the bottom one from a CJ worked fine. I ended up using a second CJ lower hose for the top; I might have been able to rig up the CJ top hose but didn't want to waste the money if it didn't quite fit. ![]() ![]() I don't think it looks too bad; I've put about 150 miles on it so far and the temperature runs where it should. I'm happy!
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1967 Impala 283 1974 '100' 258 |
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#2
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That's some interesting injinooitee. I'm not sold on the 2x4 brackets. The woodgrain is already displaying hairline cracks. Those only get larger with exposure to extreme temperature cycles and engine/suspension vibration. I'm also dubious as to the effectiveness of wood as a chassis ground. I know there is a bolt penetrating through to the sheet metal, but I think you would be better served if the entire surface of the ring terminal was in direct contact with metal.
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Trever Whetzel Fat White Boys Binder Recovery & Rehabilitation SHOP NORTH Hooty - '74 SII 4x4 - 392/TF 727/D20/3.73 D44 FA + Spartan/Trac-lok RA/4" SUA/33" TSL's/33g-fuel Mongo - '71 1210 Reg Cab 2wd - 345/TF 727/RA 17 4.10 Trac-lok D60 - "Mongo love candy!" |
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#3
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Yeah, I guess I have to agree with you on that. The next time somebody is up here that owns a metal brake I'll get them to take a look. It would be real easy to fashion something with the right tools. I probably don't have a half-hour wrapped up in those 2x4's, including painting them, and this proved it would fit.
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1967 Impala 283 1974 '100' 258 |
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#4
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Seeing a ground wire bolted to a 2x4 is HILARIOUS!
![]() I'd just get some standoffs. or in a pinch steel square/U stock. Home depot hardware section.
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1980 Traveler 345 D44, 3.73, 727, 4" RC SUA w/4* shims, GM 350 TBI (16197427) |
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#5
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Bryan,
That ground strap really needs to go to the radiator. It is there to keep any charge from occuring inside of the radiator, which will cause corrosion. I can't explain all of the details, but my buddy at the radiator shop that you talked too has told me to make sure I clean the grounds on the radiators. Aluminum is evidently worse than copper. Edit (Ha, this is my 2000 post, I really need to get a life!) |
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| Tags |
| 200 , 2x4 , 800 , binderplanet , chevy , cylinder , find , height , hoses , jeep , knock , mounts , part , pickup , problem , radiator , rough , search , shop , show , size , top , truck , wide , work |
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