White foam in radiator?

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by xsmokey11499x, Jul 9, 2011.

  1. xsmokey11499x

    xsmokey11499x Farmall Cub

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    Please Tell me It's not a headgasket. or head..

    there is NO water/milkyness in my oil. and no oil in my coolant

    But there is white foam in my radiator.

    I just recently drained out the Water that was in there, And Added Antifreeze.

    Truck does NOT overHeat.

    73 1210, 345,4spd. 2wd.
     
  2. 76 xlc

    76 xlc Banned

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    Did you flush system? Could a PO flushed system? Was system thoroughly flushed with water? What kind of coolant?
     
  3. xsmokey11499x

    xsmokey11499x Farmall Cub

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    dont know anything about the PO. Except he sprayed the truck, with house paint -_-.

    When I put the antifreeze in, I just opened the drain plug
    let the radiator drain out. started the truck for a minute Then shut it off.

    The PO was running Straight Water.

    Also I bought The Auto zone brand Antifreeze. the cheapest one... $11

    the truck also doesn't lose any coolant, So maybe it's just the antifreeze or something boiling ?
    Will it harm the truck if I drive it this way.
     
  4. xsmokey11499x

    xsmokey11499x Farmall Cub

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    Okay so I drained the radiator again drained as much as I could out. and put straight water in there, Now the foam Is Real Minimal. so I'm thinking Too much antifreeze!
    It wasnt a 50/50 Jug. that I put in
     
  5. GoNavy007

    GoNavy007 Farmall Cub

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    Oh boy... Keep checking and if it doesn't come back maybe you're okay. I think you have a busted head gasket though. PITA...
     
  6. xsmokey11499x

    xsmokey11499x Farmall Cub

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    I sure hope not! It doesn't over heat at all, no oils in the coolant, no coolant in the oil.
    not losing coolant anywhere, But if it is a blown head/Headgasket I'm going to :censored::gun_bandana: this :scout:
     
  7. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Y-Block King

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    Pre-mixed coolant is a waste of money. Some people run as much as a 70/30 mix with no ill effects. The system likely was not fully purged of air and/or there were contaminants in the coolant. Observe the coolant in the top of the radiator with the cap off while the engine is running. See any bubbles? Bubbles are a pretty good indicator of a blown head gasket.
     
  8. GoNavy007

    GoNavy007 Farmall Cub

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    I had a blown head gasket in a 1986 Dodge Ramcharger once. I didnt do anything about it for a while because I bought the car for $450 and didnt care. It started as just the white milky stuff in the coolant and nothing bad in the oil. 1000 miles later I was putting in a 1/2 quart of oil every time I filled up on gas. 2000 miles later I had 6 bent up pushrods and 2 that were pushed straight through the rocker arms. I got much better gas milage running it as a 4 cylinder though! I got 17 mpg when I towed a car from NC to MD. Eventually it got so bad my radiator emptied itself through my exhaust in 20 minutes of driving so I'd have to stop and fill it up a lot to get home. Anyway, I eventually pulled the heads and thats when I discovered the push rod and rocker problem. I also had two 1/2 inch gaps in one of my head gaskets. The Dodge 318 is a tough engine, but I digress...

    I think it's a blown gasket. Have fun!
     
  9. xsmokey11499x

    xsmokey11499x Farmall Cub

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    Well I don't hav3 no milky in coolant just tons of foam after I put antifreeze in
     
  10. Greg R

    Greg R High Wheeler

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    More than likely you did not burp all the air out before you started it.
    With that, the pump will agitate a lot of the trapped air into foaming the coolant.

    Try parking the rig nose up a slight angle to aid the air to escape when you refill the system. Another thing to check is the burp hole in the thermostat housing, they usually are rusted shut when they're this old.

    Sailor Jerry is a good foam buster too ;)
     
  11. bmacguyver

    bmacguyver High Wheeler

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    on the burping the air out , a 1/16 - 1/8 hole drilled in the stat lip or disc helps greatly.

    hth

    mac
     
  12. 76 xlc

    76 xlc Banned

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    BTW: What informs you that it is not overheating "at all"?
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2011
  13. VooDoo

    VooDoo Binder Driver

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    Check your dip stick for an oil milkshake too just to be safe. ;)
     
  14. xsmokey11499x

    xsmokey11499x Farmall Cub

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    as stated earlier, there is no fluids mixing with my oil and no oil mixing with my coolant,
    I am thinking, I need to Just Flush the system REALLY well.
    a few times.
    its better since I drained the radiator and put straight water, But theres probably some old coolant left in there somewhere, Even though I flushed it a bit already,
     
  15. Will Marsh

    Will Marsh Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    So put a flush and fill kit on it and run a bottle of Super Radiator Flush (Prestone) according to the directions. Run it on the garden hose for 30 minutes, then shut it of and let it drain. Refill with 1 gallon of green antifreeze concentrate and water. If the foam continues you have other issues.

    If you just do it right the first time you don't waste the $$ on the half-assed things that make you do it again. :( BTDT (too many times to admit to!)

    Will Marsh
     
  16. 76 xlc

    76 xlc Banned

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    DISTILLED water.
     
  17. Thomas

    Thomas Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    -The white foam was probably from air pockets in the water. You agitate the water and it will foam. If you were using water from the spigot, then it could be fluoride, chlorine, etc. Could be dish soap as well, but I'd suspect too little antifreeze. Yes, distilled water. About $1 a gallon from Wal*Mart. If propylene-glycol and ethylene-glycol are mixed, it will foam as well. Severe mixing, I am not sure how many parts, will cause the foam to gel. If ever the two are accidentally mixed in a new vehicle, if not caught early, the cooling components can be destroyed as well as the engine due to this gelling. If the two are mixed the only effective way I know of to clean the system is with citric acid. You can buy tablets for front-load washers, you can buy powder, you can use lemon juice or you can buy a two liter of your favorite lemon lime soda. You will be flushing the system out with a radiator flush afterwards, so the sugar matters not. Which BTW, you will have to temporarily assemble the water neck and thermostat housing with no thermostat if you want to flush out the block. I'd disconnect the heater core, tap the outlet heater core hose (bottom one) and push the fresh water through the system while the engine is running, and back out the inlet heater hose.

    ---I found that what I was taught about using 75/25 was correct. Not only is it too much coolant, will cause gelling in winter, but it also will start negatively effecting the freeze point. Not by much, so the 70/30 I use is about the breaking point of losing a little.

    ---How'd I find out? I found a series of supplements of sort that contained TSBs and such. Here is one I shortened and re-arranged for reading pleasure, then saved as PDF. Why shortened, cause I omited the cooling system components and such, cutting straight to the technical, fluid info.

    ---I agree 50/50 is a waste, but mainly when it comes to rust prevention. It will work fine for cooling, not the best, but fine. It is however a waste of money considering cost comparison. You buy two gallons to get one gallon of coolant, but you pay $4-$8 for a gallon of distilled water that is divided amongst the two jugs you grabbed off the shelf. Remember, the distilled water is less than $1 a gallon at Wal*Mart.

    ---Just like the oil you buy, you will have to research the PDS/MDS/TDS for ingredients or contact the manufacturer. I will be doing this shortly with the Shellzone I use, but I am in no hurry since Shell was recently acquired by Standard Oil and will undoubtedly change the formula once they finalize the important task (getting the Gulf in their clutches again). You'll see here what IH recommended for their engines (A preemptive 'please, no "the technology was old and modern fluids are better" hype'). I would suggest test strips that test PH, and nitrites at a minimum. I have been using Acustrips' PN 3001MR for around 10 years and have no complaints... especially now that price has come down a little... lol. Here's a listing from eBay that includes a part number. You only have to test once a year, after the hardest season, whether hot or cold, but ideal PM habit would be after each hard season, Winter & Summer.

    -Enjoy and remember that you can't figure percentage if you don't know the cooling system capacity and don't spill the stuff. If you do, clean it up well and hose the residual coolant 3 miles down the road to dilute it.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 10, 2011
  18. John Donnelly

    John Donnelly Administrator Staff Member Administrator Moderator

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    Troof. (Sailor Jerry too...) :D

    What you said combined with what Scoutboy and Will Marsh said should solve your issues.

    I can't believe the panic mode folks go into after doing a fluid change. Relax, and try not to panic. Typically most IH problems are not problems at all, but lack of familiarity with old vehicles and how they work when maintenance is performed. Modern stuff just has too many bottles and reservoirs that don't allow proper viewing of the process and folks go into panic mode for no reason.

    So, DON'T PANIC... as the Hitchhikers Guide so eloquently put it...

    -John
     
  19. Thomas

    Thomas Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    ---Sorry if I had repeated what had been already suggested. Just call it concurrence, didn't have time to look over anything but your post.

    ---Using the chart and info in the PDF you should be able to decide 50/50 to 70/30. 4.75 gallons to fill completely, what the block holds I don't know, so start filling with antifreeze (once you've verified no leaks) and then top with water.
    -2.5 gallons of antifreeze will give you just over 50/50
    -3 gallons of antifreeze will give you just under 70/30

    ---To further explain the difference between the two antifreezes. I see it as Dexcool was created to be more gentle to the generic seals Chitvy used that were leaking due to contact with ethylene-glycol... lol. Regardless of why, it was made red to distinguish between the two so they wouldn't get mixed accidentally. Now days you have green or red of either, so buying by color doesn't matter. Have to read the label and see what's what and only use ethylene-gycol type, going by what is in the PDF's text when it comes to formula/ingredients. Foam might be nothing, but make sure you didn't mix the two, even in small amounts. It should have had ethylene-glycol before, and kinda smelled like dead fish with a hint of sugar... lol
     
  20. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Y-Block King

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    Dam skippy:yes:
     

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