What carb do I have?

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by ultimateracing335, Jul 27, 2011.


  1. ultimateracing335

    ultimateracing335 Farmall Cub

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    Hey guys, I have a 1975 scout with a 345. How can I tell which carb and distributor I have?
    I want to adjust everything but the manual has so many different specs for many different setups.
     
  2. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 Y-Block King

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    Carb: remove the air cleaner assembly and look for part numbers on the carb air horn, usually stamped into the metal.

    Distributor: normally an ID plate riveded onto the housing below the distributor cap on the outside.

    Write down any and all numbers etc found in these areas.

    AND...take some good, well focused photos of them and add the photos to this post and we will ID for you.

    A few items that you may find usefull: carb cleaner and shop rags to clean the suspect areas, Flashlight and inspection mirror to view data plate/ID numbers, paper & pen to write down ths info for future use.
     
  3. 250gibson

    250gibson Binder Driver

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    More than likely

    Carb is 2 bbl Holley 2100. Easy to tell by the fuel bowl. If it isnt removable, ie: doesn't have 4 screws on the front, then it is a 2100 (smog carb).

    Distributor: If there is a gold box mounted to the firewall, then it is a Holley electronic ignition distributor. Holley will also have a distributor cap with female receptacles. A prestolite distributor was also common. Easy to tell, because a prestolite has male receptacles for the spark plug wires.
     
  4. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    That would be the 2210. The 2100 is an Autolite/Motorcraft model which is a common swap item.
     
  5. ultimateracing335

    ultimateracing335 Farmall Cub

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    I found these markings on my carb and i do have a gold box.
     

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  6. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    That angle doesn't really help in the ID process. Try taking one that focuses on the front of the airhorn, or just a shot that includes the entire carb.
     
  7. Thomas

    Thomas Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    ---Looks like a 2300 to me, but ehh.

    ---If a 2v carb, and bowl is mounted to the front, via 4 horizontal screws, accelerator pump is on the bottom, plug in the passenger side (LHD) of the bowl for checking fuel level, metering plate (between bowl and main body) has a vacuum fitting that often gets routed to the distributor vacuum advance pod... and the identifying numbers are found here...

    (Clickity-click for larger image)
    [​IMG]

    ... it could very much be a 2300.

    ---If a 4v carb and it has a bowl up front and in the rear, identifying numbers will in the same location. All other numbers, though important are not used for complete carb identification, whether casted or stamped.

    ---If an OEM part, there should be 3 sets of numbers.
    -IH Part Number xxxxxx-xxx (where -xxx is -C91/C92/C93/R91/R92/R93
    -List Number (the number that matters when searching for specs/correct settings & correct rebuild kit)
    -Date Code
     
  8. ultimateracing335

    ultimateracing335 Farmall Cub

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    I took these pics yesterday. I believe its a 2300. I have some markings on the distributor also.
     

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  9. Eric VanBuren

    Eric VanBuren Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Yes that is a 2300. It's not original to the truck. That number shows it's for a 72-73 304 or 345 with either an auto or manual trans.
     
  10. Thomas

    Thomas Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    ---That's an odd one to me. Now this is unimportant info (unless you're the curious type), but it does show "454598C91" (IH P/N) as being a 1972, the List# "6380 2" as being a 1972, but the date code (2028 = July of xxx8) is most likely a 68.. could even be 58, but slightly doubtful... and not a 1978... hmmmm, mebbe in Hecho for Mehico, where they knew a good thing, but our government started slapping those crappy 2210/2245 carbs on our stuff earlier on... unless of course it was in their favor, for their own vehicles. Possible?

    ---The carb kit for the Holley 2300G use to contain the most parts, but also carried the highest price and with the most parts, you had the most extra parts you'd never use. The Useful Part Number Thread, post #10 has a lot of part numbers that can be used to rebuild yours, but one main gasket, the main body gasket will need to be confirmed. That would require a straight on top shot picture of your Base Plate (AKA Throttle Plate).

    ---Here's a post from a couple years back, where Eric shouted off a couple part numbers and key information. I found it checking the board for a correct gasket kit, cause even though I love my modulars, I only try to deal with one specific list #.

    ---Can't read the distributor. Set the camera/phone on timer if you have it and step back, prop it up on something stable so it doesn't move while clickity-clicking or try taking it with your bad hand... lol.

    ---The choke horn needs to be repaired if you ask me. Someone was looking for more CFM out of a 290-300 cfm carb or tryin to fit one of them thar low-profile, fan-dangle air cleaners... lol.

    ---Here's some more from our recently departed Brother Doug (may he R.I.P.) in regards to another* carb with odd numbers... 454598-C91 ... LIST-6380-2 ... 0317: and more part numbers shouted out.

    -And then I dump before I run,

    ---The correct Base Plate Gasket is a must. 1/4" thick, Holley 108-52 (full heat shield) or Felpro 60677... but the Felpro has issues with thickeness so some have said. I prefer the 108-52 anyway, so I'd pay no mind to the Felpro unless I had a larger carb w/50cc accelerator pump, which you don't either. Your accelerator pump should be a 30cc.

    ---You'll also need t pay attention to parts you put in, alcohol approved, since we're in an ethanol age, since it likes to destroy everything it comes in contact with (even the pipelines). "GFLT" viton accelerator pump and an alcohol-approved power valve (Barry Grant, AED or Quick Fuel Tech.). The needle and seat will be a 0.097" stock, 0.110" may be needed in this day and age, but I still use a 0.097"), can be GLT or can be steel, steel doesn't behave well in street application and GLT will work well enough if you change it out for new... I'd say at least every 2 years for e10 and every year for e85. You'll also have to bump the jets up about 2 sizes for e10 and 5-6 for e85. Majority says "10% jet increase for e85" cause alcohol is not a good thirst quencher. Best bet on a float is brass when it comes to eGas.

    ---Remember, see post #10 in the Useful Part Number Thread for some useful part numbers I've posted for the 2300s. Mine is a different List#, but 99% or greater of those parts are universal for the 2300s.

    ---Don't ever use any fastener other than a Holley fastener or any other needle & seat and especially stay away from AED's fasteners. I'm even scared to use their Power Valves simply cause they're threaded and I would have had their fasteners damage a carb if I hadn't known when threads didn't match right.

    ---BBL, HTH and Hope I didn't send your head into a flat spin.
     

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