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Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by rlireland, Aug 20, 2019.
The flashers appear to be after the t/s switch.
I'll try the tuner cleaner when I get some more.
I removed the t/s switch and tried spraying electronic tuner cleaner on the contacts as well as I could. The switch feels like the contacts are working properly when operated with the t/s lever. I don't feel (or hear) anything that is abnormal.
At this point, I don't think the issue is in the switch itself. There must be a connection (or wire) somewhere else in the circuit that is open and not allowing voltage to the switch. I'm stumped that something like this could happen in a static environment, i.e. from the last time they worked to the next time the Scout was started and driven after being parked for a month. It's in an urban garage. No pack rats or other varmits around.
I don't know if I'll ever find where the problem is.
Start where you have 12 volts power (fuse box). Methodically trace the turn signal wiring checking for voltage in various places as you go. You should be able to find a length/section where you lose voltage. I suspect either the connector at the steering column or the turn signal switch.
Scout 800's don't have a fuse box. Voltage comes from the battery through the starter solenoid to the ammeter and then is distributed to other circuits, some of which are in-lined fused. After reading your suggestion, I think I will check for voltage at the headlight switch, which is fed from the ammeter. The t/s circuit, 118A, continues from there to the t/s flasher (through a 14amp fuse) and then to the t/s switch. I should be able to verify voltage all the way to the switch.
An issue that I found with the hazard flasher seems to be related to the turn signals not working. Voltage applied to the hazard flasher directly from the battery will activate the flasher can (you can hear it click) but the dash indicator lights will flash dimly. If the hot lead to the flasher is disconnected, the turn signals will work as expected. So for now, I'm leaving that circuit open. I was never able to operate the hazards anyway. Hopefully, this will have solved the problem, at least for now.
I read all the responses, but may have missed something. Excuse me if I did.
My 80 did this to me for a while. I know it doesn´t have a hazard switch, but sometimes they worked and other times they didn´t.
MOST of my problem in the all stock wiring was the inline fuse. I removed the fuse, cleaned the contacts, and then removed the spring and stretched it a little. This put more pressure on all of the contacts.
I also unlplugged the flasher terminals, removed them from the plastic housing, and cleaned each one. After they were clean, I coated each in a little dielectric grease.
Again, If you did this and I missed it I apologize.
Good luck with it.
Interestingly, when I checked voltage at the inline fuse for the hazard flasher, I got erratic readings; the reading wouldn't stabilize. That's what I concluded must be causing my turn signal issues. The cause of that? Not sure.
Thanks for the tips on the fuse holder and contacts. I'll do that on mine.
Just finished wiring up my scout 80 and I had to clean ground points where the front turn signal pots contact the body. I had no instrument flasher light, but the turn signals worked. That ended up a bad flasher. I agree, follow the power until you find it gone and start there. I have seen wires broken inside the plastic sheath due to too much flex back and forth. You can not see the break. You have to check each end of the wire to find where the power was lost. I had a VW beetle that went crazy. It ended up dirty fuses and fuse holders.
Now, English cars are where you really learn electrics. Lucas, the prince of darkness strikes often. Check to make sure all the smoke has not been let out of the harness and also the blinker fluid level. Remember, a gentleman does not motor about after dark!!!!!
A couple of weeks ago, a buddy (who is more of an electrician than I am) and I spent a couple of hours checking voltages and chasing wires behind the dash. Never found anything definitive but every once in a while, the turn sigs would start working. Finally, we just reached into the mass of wires and "stirred them up". The turn sigs started to work again! This leads me to believe that there is a loose connection or a partially broken wire somewhere in the turn sig circuit. Could even be a bad fuse holder, I suppose. So for now, I'm putting everything back together and hoping for the best.
Somewhat confirming the loose connection/broken wire theory, I mended several wires that had cuts through the insulation and tightened the screw terminals on the back of all the gauges. I ran a new, fused circuit (465) from the headlight switch to the hazard flasher, put in a new flasher and now I've got hazard flashers!
We'll see how long this lasts. I'm getting really tired of removing the steering wheel and dash panel.