Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by TheCrazyFarmer, Jun 19, 2019.
There's your other vacuum leak. Bingo!
Ah. Alright then. If you want to take a break from all this, that's fine. As long as the truck's safe to drive. Hope you have a good rest of your summer, what's left of it.
I aint takin no break, I'm just waiting fot the guru to come over and help.
He should hear it leaking after the engine is shut off.
would it help if I uploaded a video of me shutting of the engine so you can hear it?
Maybe you’ll hear it, maybe not. Disconnect the hose running to it. Plug the manifold side. See if it runs differently and if your vacuum number changes.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Just disconnect and plug the line to the brake booster (on the vacuum side) and see if it helps. Also, as we said, do the same with the PCV. (considering how screwed up the previous owner left it, it could easily be BOTH)
What is the best way to plug it so I get an accurate reading?
Also yeah, the PO did some weird things, for example, he wired an after market radio into the cigarette lighter really poorly, so every time you touched something under the dash it sparked everywhere!
He also cut the rear end of the bed with a Sawzall so a camper would fit on it.
And now the crappy homemade vac stuff!
If you disco the booster hose at the intake manifold, you have an exposed hose barb. You can buy vacuum caps either rubber or vinyl, in assorted sizes that are made to cap vacuum fittings. Or, a less preferred method is to take a short chunk of vacuum hose that fits snugly onto the hose barb. Then shove a bolt that fits very snugly into the open end of the hose. Secure the bolt in the hose with a tightened hose clamp. The idea is to eliminate the chance for any air to be drawn into that exposed hose fitting while the engine is running. Another way to do it is to leave the hose attached at the intake fitting and disconnect it at the booster fitting. Then either totally pinch off the loose end of the hose with a clamp of some type or plug it with a bolt as described above. The exposed fitting on the booster can be left exposed for the test as that isn't the vacuum side. Several ways to skin the same cat, none of them complex, difficult or expensive to do.
I think you just won the "Previous Owner F*&^@# Up Mod Contest"
You will probably keep finding stuff that makes you go "WTF?!" for years. Just this weekend I found a bolt holding the transmission support cross-member on was a bit loose. Upon closer inspection, I noticed not only was it loose, the nut had been WELDED onto the bolt. For no apparent reason. And just to make it more fun, its in a spot where you cant get an angle grinder or a sawzall in to cut it off.
If you use a bolt as a plug in a hose, make sure its one that is not too loose and has a good inch or more of smooth shoulder, then clamp it in place with a hose clamp.
Is it normal to for it make this clicking sound while it runs?
I can't quite tell where its coming from.
I think it might be the fan?
This tool should be used too diagnose leaks...sorry if already discussed as i did not go back thru multiple pages...ticking noise can be alt bearing..also make sure u use the CORRECT vac hose from manifold to PBB...gas hose and the cheap vac hose junk sold at most local parts houses will not suffice...if you have cut corners leave kids and dog at home..
Sounds like lifter tick, but it could be an exhaust leak too.
It did sound like it was coming from around the passenger side exhaust manifold, so you might be on to something there.
Ahem. Stethoscope! That setup I showed. It's the ideal tool for pinpointing the source of noises like this. You would want the metal brake/fuel tubing on it so you can reach down and listen among all the hot parts safely.
And obviously, keep it and your fingers well away from moving belts, etc. when poking around a running engine.
BTW, other than that ticking noise, which could be fuel pump or water pump related maybe? if coming from the front of the engine, It sounds like it's running okay. So that's some progress! Is the choke on during this video?
The choke is on, I have it timed and everything on choke so I can still do hay runs and stuff.
Like we keep saying, next step, disconnect and block off the manifold vacuum to the brake booster and PCV. Those are common and likely sources of leaks. Then check again with the vacuum gauge and see if it improves. (It SHOULD have improved when you fixed that mickey moused fitting. If it did not, then that indicates that there are more, larger vacuum leaks such that the one you fixed was just a "drop in the bucket".
I am gonna tackle those leaks here soon, but I drove it into town today on choke to register it at the DMV.
It did awesome! It drove all the way into town with no issues, didn't overheat or anything!
We got it registered, and then went to O'Rielly's.
On our way home, it started to PUTT PUTT a little bit, backfired a couple times, and then it started to jolt as I drove further. I pulled over and looked under the hood, and I saw nothing wrong. I started her up again, and drove it another mile, and then it did it again. I was able to limp it most of the way home, and then had someone push me up the hill with another truck.
What do you think is going on here? It drove perfectly about 25 miles without issues, and then this started happening.
I'd love to know what you think, thanks!
It's because you're running it on full choke like several of us have told you several times. That's a band-aid on a bullet wound. Sure, it runs ok for awhile...short trips and such, but run it long enough to get the engine good and hot and it doesn't like that choke. It wants to breathe! This isn't a new symptom. This is just more of the same old stuff.