TravelerMan's 79 Build Begins

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by TravelerMan79, Apr 24, 2020.


  1. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    More nests. Lol...

    Removed the PS vent block-off plate that was there due to the AC/evap box.
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    After removing the dash pad.
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  2. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    A couple more stubborn Philips head screws holding down the DS rear interior cargo panel. The ProPoint impact set and pic are a life saver
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    Kinda what I suspected on the DS in real rear quarter panel.
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  3. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Finally started on the bracing. I've cut them at 57" and will triangulate one from the front just atop the horizontal one at the on the kick panel and attach the other end high up on the "B" pillar. Then the left over piece will go from the near the top of the "B" pillar, just above the second 57" long one, to near the top of the "A".
    I'm not at all a good welder, and I noticed my welder was stalling on the wire feed. Made a few adjustments which made a 100% difference. We also just had a heavy downpour, so it was super humid and the lens on the helmut would fog up, so I called it quits for tonight. I did find the LED light made a huge difference when welding as I typically can't see where I'm going, but much easier to see now.

    From PS a kick panel. Going to fun to get underneath.
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    PS " B" pillar and cargo floor.
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    Horizontal brace on PS.
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    After lots of back and forth measuring, I "decided" the distance from the bottom of the "C" channels to the top of my datum would be 63 mm. I had 62 mm on the DS and 64 mm on the PS. I also measured the distance from the bottom (underside) to the top of the frame rail to be 80 mm based on the PS which is largely in tack, and one measurement from the rear area on the DS. This is what I'll use when I resconstruct the floor and rockers.

    I removed the door seals on both doors and noticed both closed such the the door surfaces were slightly offset inwards from the rear quarters. The PS was only offset above the upper body line, whereas the DS door was offset down the entire length. Not sure why. Perhaps the fact that there is no lower lip left on the DS door floor pan allows it to move inwards more. Definitely something to remember when adjusting the doors. Makes me wonder what does one do when the fibreglass top is removed.

    PS door offset without door seal.
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    DS door offset without door seal.
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    Decided for fun to throw a square in the liftgate opening.

    I'm guessing this is not by design. Lol...
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    Might explain this mess. I recall seeing a dimension in the manual. I'll have to give it a look see. Wondering if I should address this before cutting up the floors. Hmmmm???
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    Last edited: Aug 17, 2020
  4. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Forgot to mention. Before I started welding in the kick plate area, I decided it might be smart to remove the mass of leaves etc stuck down inside the fender. I could just see a spark igniting this mess and sending everything up in flames. Damn rodents...

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  5. NorOntSCout

    NorOntSCout Farmall Cub

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    Guy i used to get parts from used to recommend adding a corner bracing at the end caps. Common failure was for the spot welds to break. He would reinforce on the inside of the tailgate opening, I used to try to reinforce inside the end caps. Good way was much easier

    Sent from my BV9700Pro using Tapatalk
     
  6. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Thanks. Good to know as I'll look into that. I'm a bit skeptical of the how the overall body was designed especially taking into consideration that they had removable tops, and in the case of the Traveler, no tailgate. There is nothing keeping the rigidity of the two rear quarters side to side once the top and liftgate were removed. I don't think I would ever drive my Traveler without a tailgate installed once the top was removed. I always get a chuckle when I see this advertising pic...
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  7. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Got the gas pedal out once I realized there were nuts on the other side in the engine compartment. Kinda of silly not to have weld nuts. Now to figure out the brake pedal. However, before going to far, I remembered that I should try to align the DS rear quarter with my liftgate. I initially tried jacking up that comer, but it made no difference to the squareness of the DS Liftgate opening. After some serious head scratching, I came up with this Red Green special. It worked! Tailgate is now square on both the DS and PS. Now to shift the liftgate over to the PS to even the gaps.

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  8. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Some additional pics.
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  9. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    First cut into the cancer. I really don't want to cut too much until I add a support across the trans tunnel and kick plate/"A" pillar that can rest on the body mount. There is such a chain reaction of metal fitment in the body mount area it is crazy. Bottom of kick plate is rusted out. Floor rusted out. Body mount support rusted out. "C" channel rusted out. Rocker rusted out. I even think that the trans tunnel flange will need to replaced at this point.
    D'oh. What did I get myself into. This is going to be some serious fixing. Only real professional way to do this type of work is in a rotisserie. Hmmm...
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  10. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Lift the body up and put it on 6x6 blocks in top of the frame? Should give you lots of room.

    That frame needs attention anyhow.
     
  11. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Good idea, but I think I'm seriously going the rotisserie route. I hurt my back a couple weeks back doing the body mounts. Also developed a pain in my right side/ lower abdomen at the same time. After lots of time waiting in the ER, and after urine and blood tests, and a CT scan they couldn't find anything wrong. ER doc said probably pulled some abdomen muscles which can be very painful, and a long recovery time. Needless to say, at 55 years, I'm no spring chicken, and it doesn't help that I'm 6'-6". I really can't afford anymore issues with my back as this time I was lucky, and after only a few days the back pain was gone.

    All that being said, as you mentioned, the frame needs a good sand blasting, which really means separating it from the body. There is a guy selling rotisserie's in Toronto for CAN$1400.00. Not a bad deal considering I just watched this vid from a fellow Canadian who spent CAN$1300,00 plus just on material from Metal SuperMarkets, etc., but I doubt the strength/quality are compatible as I think his was a bit over kill.

    Kijiji ad for rotisserie.

    https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-other/winnipeg/car-rotisserie-for-vehicle-restoration-mb/1487224853

    YT Vid of home built rotisserie.

     
  12. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Just ordered the rotisserie. Should be ready by end of next week. Hopefully I'll have it at my place the following week. I guess this will now be turning into a full-blown body-off restoration. Next step I guess is to pull the engine somehow. I figure the good news is that I can ask US$55K or at least CAN$100K for it when I'm done. Lol.
     
  13. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    You likely would have been world's ahead to just buy a tub from IHonly or IHPA, or binder boneyard.

    Have it crated and shipped via UShip.

    And have it shipped.
     
  14. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Maybe yes, maybe no. I agree it is ALWAYS best to start with something rust free. In the beginning I called the place in San Diego. Can't recall the name, but a " good" tub was US$5K plus crating & shipping. So say US $7K, (CAN$10K), plus import duties/customs say another CAN$1K. So, I'm now at CAN$11K, for a tub that will still require some work for sure, and no front clip. I was supposed to buy a rust free Traveler from ScottPluss that he advertised on his site, but he backed out after a couple of months of waiting. Not happy. It is what it is, and I really want to see what I'm capable of doing as I want to explore the world of metal fabrication and auto body restoration.
     
  15. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Managed to get the rear bumper off tonight. Once again, the IH engineers didn't leave enough space around the bolt heads to get a socket on. Luckily 3 of the 4 didn't require a socket or wrench on the head to keep it from moving. Another nest deep into the DS frame rail. Lol. I think I got most of it, but who knows.

    Rear frame member and bumper mounting brackets. Not sure if I would want to tow a 5000 lb trailer with this setup. The hitch for my Lexus has six frame mounting points, plus the vertical "wings" on the mounting plate are much larger. I guess it must be ok...
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    "Rats" nest in the DS frame rail. Good thing I saw the spacer? for the other angle mounting bolt. Never would have guessed it passed through the frame with the nut on top.
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    This is what I managed to scrape out.
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  16. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I dont think the bumper mounted hitch is good for 5000 pounds,that would be a frame mounted receiver.
     
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  17. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Bumper mount was only good for 2000lb.
     
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  18. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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  19. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    I guess what this really means that if you plan on larger ties, like for instance (33"), and plan on towing a lot, like me, a gear swap is in order as I have the 3.07 ratio.
     
  20. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    And I'd highly recommend trailer brakes...
     
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