TravelerMan's 79 Build Begins

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by TravelerMan79, Apr 24, 2020.


  1. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Started on the body mount bolts. The two front ones came easily, as well the PS front and PS middle. The PS rear was another story. First cut of the nut with my grinder at washer interface. No go. Remove some of the rubber and bolt is seized to sleeve. Cut higher up against frame support. Still a no go. Grind head off and try to push out from the top. Still a no go. Drill out some more rubber, and punch from bottom. Finally comes out. Not not how I'm going to get the rubber mounts actually out. Will have to read up...

    Rear PS body mount bolt. First cut at washer, then higher up, and then after grinding away the head which was unnecessary. You can see the ground off head (shiny square).
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    Bolt after removal and square hole in floor.
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  2. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    I thought I would mention something that had puzzled me for some time. It concerned how the driver and passenger floor were formed and how they attached to the rocker. Most know that the floors have an outer lip at the door where the rubber door seal attaches. I didn't realize that immediately as I saw some builds without the lip. According to the drawing below, the lip is actually angled inward a bit.

    image.jpeg

    Also, the "C" channel upper lip is angled to match that of the floor angle, as well as the last bit of the rocker upper surface. All very interesting as I'm guessing the after market parts aren't angled as such. Even the last bit of the floor pan is bent upwards to sit horizontally on the horizontal upper section of the rocker.

    Looking down on the rear of the PS floor pan, I circled the spot welds which seem to be about an inch back from the lip for the door seal. Seems rather far to me. I wonder if the spot weld was that far inwards to catch all three layers of metal (floor pan, rocker, "C" channel)? Also, you. An see a 1/4" hole in the floor pan just below the cap of the marker. I think there is a corresponding hole in the rocker. If there is, I'm guessing these were drain horles as there a series of them in the following pics.
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    Center of floor pan. More spot welds and holes. Note large space between the last two spot welds to the right.
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    Front area of PS floor pan. Again note large space between the last two spot welds. Could be more spot welds. I know once I clean things up a bit more. Plan is to remove floor pans in one piece so I can get them replicated by the shop in Montreal. Same for the "C" channel and rockers. I will say that the lip for the door seal does in fact seem to be bent inwards a bit just like in the diagram above. Sorry, it's the engineer in me. Lol...
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  3. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Got really tired of the crappy LED hand held trouble light as it would never stay where I needed it. It wasn't terribly bright either, so last night I made the plunge for a cordless 2000 lumen LED spot light from NOMA. It was pricey at CAN$130.00, but is supposed to last 8 hours, and also has a USB charge port which will be handy for charging my iPad which I use to stream music while working.

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    Ground off the head of the DS rear body mount bolt in order to try to preserve the location, but wan't entirely successful as it was still a bit attached while pushing it from below.

    DS rear body mount. Not sure if I should try to find a similar bolt or just use a regular hex head.
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    DS front cab mount. I just ground it off, but was still a pain to actually get the rubber bushing out. I think I will drill out what I can of the remaining rubber bushings as cutting through it with the grinder just made way too much smoke in my garage.
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    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
  4. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Got the bushings out in about 2 hrs. Drilled into the bushing in several place around the sleeve with a 1/4" drill bit. This made it easy to pull out the sleeve with some pliers. Next I cut into the bushing in an X pattern with my utility knife, and then cut into each quarter piece while pulling on the piece. Worked out very well.

    Some comparison pics of the stk bushing with the Energy Systems one.

    Note larger ID of the Energy sleeve. I know this was covered somewhere before, but can't recall where as the OP used larger dia bolts IIRC. Not really keen on the extra slop.
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    Larger length of the Energy sleeve. Also, the Energy bushings come with an upper mounting washer that is not present in the OE setup, or at least from what I could see so far.
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    OE sleeve with stk 7/16" dia bolt.
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    Energy sleeve with stk 7/16" dia bolt.
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  5. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Ordered qty 8 X 8' of 1"x1" square tubing for the bracing. Will be ready Monday. Not sure yet if it is worth the trouble to make it adjustable. Thinking not at the moment. The key is to dial in the body/gaps first, then welderup. Lol...
     
  6. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    I don’t like the slop either. If I were doing this - I would soak the original bushings in evaporust and see what I thought of their condition after that.
     
  7. mporter52

    mporter52 Binder Driver

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    Its too bad you aren't in Texas, I have a set of rockers I didn't use and would give them to you. Not sure its worth the shipping up there though.
     
  8. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Either four or six of the originsl sleeves were in like new condition, but I would have to check. For sure the two rear most were corroded to nothing. I might look into a tighter fitting sleeve down the road, as issue now is to just to get it to sit level on the frame.

    Thanks for the offer @mporter52. Border is still shut, so I've decided to get everything made "locally" by the shop in Montreal. I'll give some stuff a try on my break.
     
  9. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Got the body mounts in along the PS

    Rear bumper.
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    Intermediate/rear wheel well.
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    Front cab mount.Lol...
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    Front bumper/rad support.
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  10. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    After installing the PS mounts, I now noticed the PS door window frame is just touching the fibreglass top flange at the bottom (small white spot at corner of cap flange). This wasn't the case previously. We'll see if this corrects itself when I install the mounts on the DS. It was closing fine, but I still had the body §lifted a bit at the intermediate and front cab mount. When I lowered both jacks down, that is when I noticed the issue. Surprisingly, the jack support under the rusty "A" pillar was still holding up the body as it was the last to be released.

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    Gap before body mount install. Still very close, but it didn't touch. I'm guessing the new body mounts, especially the intermediate one is allowing the body to sit as it should, and may have corrected a bit of a sag in the middle.
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    Original body mounts. From left to right. Rearmost, intermediate and front.
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    I'm thinking part of the issue might be due to the fibreglass cap not being properly positioned either as it seems to be sitting a bit further forward compared to the DS based on the top edge relative to the rain gutter rail on the "A" pillar.

    PS fibreglass cap location relative to "A" pillar rain gutter. Seems about 3 mm (1/8") more forward than DS below.
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    DS fibreglass cap location relative to "A" pillar rain gutter.
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    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
  11. Dutch

    Dutch Farmall Cub

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    Great progress. We are in about the same place. No front cab mount and body alignment purgatory. I'm on day 3 or so and just yesterday I was thinking I should have made my door braces adjustable. Mainly because I got my door gaps 'good', then braced. Now I am dialing them in better, as well as my quarters, and need to move them just a bit. Removing and TIG'ing them in such a tight space is a pain. I was thinking a welded nut on the standoff on the body. Oversized holes on the braces for a little play before locking them down.

    Also, I bought Energy body bushings and converted to 1/2" bolts. For now it is everywhere but the radiator mount, but I still might convert those too. I did read somewhere on here that you should stick with the stock size, but it was after I was committed to 1/2".

    My username should be 'notapro', because, well, I'm not a pro.
     
  12. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Got the other mounts installed on the DS and attached a straight beam to the underside of the frame to use as datum. This is what I measured:

    Distance from datum to bottom of "C" channel (20" back from the forward beginning of the lip):

    DS; 2-1/2"
    PS: 2-5/8
    PS measurement.
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    Not sure what the difference means other than body was made that way, which if true, is interesting to note.

    I also measured the "straightness" of the bottom lip of the "C" channel. The PS was perfectly straight, but there was a slight "bump" of the DS about midway u dear the door. I managed to push the "bump" back up with a small sissors Jack, I'm guessing the rocker is bending slightly each time I get into the truck as there is really nothing support g the floor.

    The gap between the PS door bottom and rocker is not uniform either. I didn't measure the gap yet, you can see that as you move towards the rear of the door, the gap widens. Also, the rocker sits inboard of the lower rear quarter panel by at least 1/8. I think all this was typical for 70's car production practices because as we all know, quality was not job one during that era.

    Gap along PS at rocker. Front of door.
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    Middle of door.
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    Rear of door.
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    What does all this mean? Not sure, only that there is much room for improvement when rebuilding these bodies. I guess one of the main things is to get openings square/ parallel, and everything else should fall into place. Easier said than done. Lol!
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
  13. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Thanks @Dutch. I'm still on the fence about adjustable braces. No doubt they would be better, but it is the just time, cost, and hassle. As mentioned above, these bodies are not examples of high quality and preciseness, but you do want the door/fender/ tailgate/Liftgate gaps to be pleasing to the eye as well as the body lines.
    I'm by no means as pro either, but do try my best with what I have. I have seen the work of some so called "pro" jobs on various vehicle restorations, and some are less than desirable IMHO.
     
  14. Dutch

    Dutch Farmall Cub

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    Looking at your pictures feels like I am standing in my garage looking at my ol' girl.

    Anyway, my door/rocker gap grows just like yours with both quarter panel gaps parallel. Both my doors look like they angered a bull, were attacked, and lost. The bottom edge of my passenger door is not straight-- I haven't checked the driver's yet. Perhaps missing the front cab mount had the doors resting on the rockers and bent them up on the latch side-- just the lower, latch side corner of the door itself. This is worth a check if you haven't already. Also, my rocker to B pillar connection is severely rusted, so the rocker could have dropped a little here. I haven't spent too much time on this yet, but throwing it out there in hopes that it'll help.
     
  15. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Decided to attack the bend in my rear bumper using the winch on my truck.

    Nice crease in the upper plate.
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    Top view. I should have taken a pic with the level along the rear vertical surface to show the angle.
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    Winch strap attached.
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    The Lexus. Lol...
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    I used my floor jack to raise up the wing a bit as there was a bit of twist in the bumper. I raised it so that it was level. On every Scout I've seen with the HD bumper the wings are angled upwards towards the front.
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    Almost straight looking down from above. You can see a slight gap between the bumper and level as the strap is showing through from below. It's only a couple of mm. Not bad for shade tree stuff. Lol...
    The rest will have to be done on my hyd press. I tried banging it down with some heat and my 2.5 lb brass hammer, and it wasn't cooperating much.
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    The PS wing angled up. I'm going to cut a 4"x4" and wedge it at the top of my garage door opening to see if I can push the wing down until level.
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    Level on the PS upper rear quarter sill.
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    Last edited: Aug 16, 2020
  16. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    I forgot to mention, I pulled the rig back about 3' in process. Lol.
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    Some after pics...
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    I'm thinking of removing the rusted steel checker plate and replacing it with some aluminum checker plate when the time comes. There is a crack there along the crease.
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    Almost perfect.
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  17. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Managed to twist the PS sing down just using the handle from my floor jack. Not sure what they meant when they called this their HD bumper. Just stepping on it causes it to twist and bend. Now the wings are approx level and match the horizontal body lines.
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    Removing more interior panels in prep for welding in the braces.

    Got the DS vinyl kick panel cover out. Had to remove hi-beam floor switch, F/A pull knob, and parking brake bracket. Snapped one of the studs.
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    New like inner quarter panels. Love that colour.
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    Some rust in the upper rear corner. Hope I can save it.
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    Last edited: Aug 16, 2020
  18. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Once you take the roof off I'm betting you'll find rot in the upper bedside rails.
     
  19. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Probably. DS is way worse that PS from what I can see. I suspect there won't be much of this body that won't need some patch or complete replacement. I figure if @Jrc55 could rebuild his body, there is hope for mine. We'll see though, as my space/tools/skills are not quite the same, but I'm up for the challenge. Lol.
     
  20. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    I just wanted to mention something about a few tools that I have found invaluable during this tear down. They are my ProPint Impact screwdriver set, and a professional quality pick. the number of Philips head screws that I have come across that didn't want to come out must be a least a dozen by now. If the head was rusted out, I used the pick to clean it out, and depending how stubborn it was, I would resort to the impact. The latest was a stubborn rusted out screw retaining the dash pad. After a couple of "normal" attempts I thought it was never going to come out. I was sure I would have to resort to drilling it out which I knew would probably result in some minor damage. But before I did that, I decided to give it a try with the pic and impact and it worked.

    Rusted out screw.
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    Impact and pic.
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    Last edited: Aug 16, 2020
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