TravelerMan's 79 Build Begins

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by TravelerMan79, Apr 24, 2020.


  1. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Yes, I guess that is why it is still for sale. Some might say my Traveler was a rusty pile as well. Lol...
     
  2. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Am I correct to assume this is not good?

    image.jpeg
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  3. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Tested the thermostat that was in the pic above. It is marked as 195F, but only opened maybe 3/32" of an inch. I'm not sure if that is proper. I'll test the new one tomorrow.
    image.jpeg
    After going into town to pick up some more stuff, I found a package on my porch. That's a first, as most couriers will not deliver packages to my place due to its "remoteness". They were the struts I ordered from RockAuto. Nice.
    image.jpeg
     
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  4. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Damn. After reading up on thermostats, and finding this thread:

    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/robertshaw-thermostats.51487/

    I decided to order the Robershaw 370-195 from Flowkooler.com. I think I now kinda understand this funky coolant housing and bypass design. I'll keep the Stant thermostat I picked up today just so I can get things back together temporarily.

    Had a look at the original struts, and the StrongArm 4719s are the "exact" length, but I can't get the ball pivot studs out from the originals as the new struts didn't come with any. After cleaning away the rust and debris on one the strut ends, I did manage to find and remove a small wire retainer, but the ball stud still wouldn't come out. Even after removing the strut from the vehicle, I'm still baffled as to how that ball pivot stud comes out. I'll have a closer look tomorrow, and I will try to cut/grind the strut cup away to free the ball stud.

    In this thread:

    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/traveler-liftgate-struts.25255/

    The ball studs can be purchased from McMaster Carr using P/N 9512K98. A search on the net comes up with several sources of supply. I wouldn't mind replacing them with a SS version.

    https://www.maxumhardware.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=106_18_26

    More nonsense to sort out...
     
  5. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Ended up cutting away the strut cups to remove the ball studs on one of the struts. There was another inner ratainer clip which explains why I couldn't remove them. With all the rust, they are practically impossible to differentiate from the cup. I can't find where I placed the outer retainer clips. I reinstalled the one strut. It is of sufficient strength to support the liftgate in the max open position, but otherwise the liftgate falls back down. They are rated at 118 lbs.
    Some pics...
    Original strut.
    image.jpeg
    StrongArm 4719.
    image.jpeg
    I'm not really likng how the strut isn't tucked in a bit more. The orginal is the same, but not as noticeable due its smaller footprint.
    Original Strut.
    image.jpeg
    StrongArm 4719
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    Inner ball stud spring clips.
    image.jpeg

    While surfacing the interweeb, I came across a vintage Realistic/Radio Shack CB. Seems the TRC-448 is a highly prized unit. I also came across a manual for it from 1979. Perfect as she seems to have had a CB installed at one point. Hmmmm...

    CB antenna base
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    For sale on kijiji.ca
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    1979 Manual on eBay
    image.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2020
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  6. Arkansas Dave

    Arkansas Dave High Wheeler

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    Cool project I've always wanted to build a Terra and that CB is cool mine had one before I got it too and I finally picked one up a while back after looking for ever I think it would be neat to have one in it again. Good luck and anything you need you can pretty much find on here, out of all the forums I have belonged to these are some of the most helpful genuine people out there.

    Arkansas Dave
     
  7. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Got the other strut installed. Works very nice. The wood support stick is now in my burn pile. Lol.
    image.jpeg

    Now noticed the latch mechanism is frozen on the driver's side. I guess that is why they cut out the lock. Something else to figure out.
    image.jpeg

    Started to clean up the thermostat casting and upper cast pipe. It cleaned up nicely with a wire wheel while I let the housing soak in some EnviroRust solution. I still haven't assembled my blast cabinet, so I'll just try my small hand blaster on it later today or tomorrow.
    image.jpeg

    I ordered an original mirror housing off of eBay as I'm missing one. Debated as to getting non OEM, but I'll keep it stock for now.

    As I was working on trying to remove the rear seal aluminum retaining strip, I noticed this. D'oh...

    Driver's side
    image.jpeg
    Passenger side
    image.jpeg
     
  8. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Thought it was going to rain, but it didn't so I decided to clean up the parts. The air cleaner lid was proving to be a bit of a pain in the a$$, so I'll finish it in the blast cabinet.

    Before blasting
    image.jpeg

    After blasting
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    Ford engine red. Ssshhh...
    image.jpeg
     
  9. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    Don't feel bad. I used this for my valve cover!!!!!
    20171231_092144.jpg
    20171231_092151.jpg
     
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  10. J.J.

    J.J. Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    don't feel bad at all, I did my entire engine in my '76 with this same stuff!

    [​IMG]

    JJ in TN
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2020
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  11. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Very nice. That is beautiful. I'm probably going to do the rocker covers, intake, and oil pan at some point, and perhaps the water pump of it is not too hard to removed. I'll need to order the gasket kit first, and then some decals.
     
  12. J.J.

    J.J. Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Thank you! I used Bulldog adhesive promotor first before the paint to help it stick better. Decals came from Scoutco.

    JJ in TN
     
  13. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Tanks for the tip as I was boy to repaint my grill and headlight bezels with some chrome paint.
     
  14. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Reinstalled the tstat hsg along with the Stant thermostat and cast pipe with new hoses and clamps just to see if things would work. Used gasket maker, but I'll redo when I get my RobertShaw tstat.
    Good news. No leaks. New thermostat does open to allow coolant to rad. Temp gage works! It was disconnected. The fresh paint just goes to show how dirty the engine is. I'll be getting back my pressure washer from my father-in-laws to clean the engine bay a bit. The bright light makes the paint look orange, but it is red. Lol...
    image.jpeg
    Temp gage working. Engine was off at the time.
    image.jpeg

    The engine also seems to be running a bit better, and the high idle did slow down, so I'm guessing the thermostat coil/linkage is working, and the fast idle cam dropped down. I think there still may be a vacuum leak which I haven't yet checked into. Ordered a timing light, which should be here in a week, which will help confirm engine speeds.
     
  15. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Picked up the correct spark plug wires (I hope) and the gasket that goes between the air filter cleaner housing and the carb. I also picked up the brake booster assembly last week, but was hoping to paint it and have it installed by now.
    Finally sorted out my brake parts shipment from RockAuto and the freight forwarder. Because their facility in Ontario is still closed, I'm having it shipped to my place. Once I get the brakes sorted out, I'll be able to move the damn thing around.
    I realized after some reading on strut assemblies, mine are installed upside down. I just installed as per what had already been installed, but it seems the rod end must be installed lower than the body when it remains in its predominant position.
    Also picked up a fibreglass repair kit, so I'm hoping to work on the liftgate in the next week or so. Also ordered a set of OE ANCO wiper blades off of eBay. Spending way too much money, but you only live once. Lol.
    image.jpeg
     
  16. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    I finally got the plug wires installed last night. It was a bugger of a job to get some of those plug leads onto the plugs. The new plug wires were pretty much bang on with the old ones in terms of length and connector configurations. The one word for #7 clylinder snakes around the rear of the carb, and on the old wire there was a metal clip, but it wasn't attached to anything. The service manual seems to show a clip towards the driver side rear rocker cover, but I just attached if to the rear passenger Moi ting bolt for the carb to keep it out of the way of the vacuum lines. It is kinda interesting to look at this snakes nest of vacuum hoses as an attempt to "fine tune" carburetor operation just prior to advent of electronic fuel injection over the next few years in NA.
    Engine was running better, as I had plugged the vacuum line to the brake power booster. This confirms that it was leaking internally as last time I ran it, once the engine warmed up it started to slow down, stumble, and eventually die. I still need to check for more vacuum leaks, but I did confirm that the Hot Air Intake control valve was working. The engine runs at high idle way too long before whatever vacuum or other controls kick in to lower the idle. I say it takes a good 10 minutes for that to happen meanwhile it sounds like a run away train in my garage. Even my dogs got scared when I started it up, Lol.
    I got to track down the Service Manuals I ordered from Anything Scout today, I have some package from Purolator waiting at the local d├ępanneur (convienance store). Funny that Fedex delivers to my door and UPS and Purolator will deliver just down the road from me (2kms), but somehow I'm too far away. Lol.

    New plug wires
    image.jpeg
    Brake booster vacuum line capped off
    image.jpeg

    Clip for #7 plug wire mounted to carb base.
    image.jpeg
     
  17. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Getting ready to paint the brake booster. Used some Dupli-Color paint adhesion spray. Thanks to @J.J. for pointing that out. I know it is not what he recommended, but I can't wait to get that stuff. I haven't yet decided on what type of black: Satin or Semi-gloss. They cut the studs off and relocated them, so this must be used on another vehicle. Not really a good job IMHO, but ca la vie. Lol. I did check the spacing with the existing, and they match.
    image.jpeg
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    Noticed this mess on the inside of the oil filler cap. Never seen anything like this before. Looks like some type of lithium white grease. Inside the rocker looks nice and clean as well as the oil on the dipstick.
    image.jpeg
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  18. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Test piece with what is supposed to be a semi-gloss black, and a generic engine black. Both from Dupli-Color and the surface was fresh sheet metal. I have a Fleet Coating gloss black that I will also try as the semi-gloss appears to almost flat or matte. Something is not right I think with labelling of the Fleet Coating can. I remember now when I painted my rear bumper and tire carrier for my Lexus, it was supposed to match the ARB front bumper which I painted in semi-gloss, but it came out in a gloss finish. Hmmmm...
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    image.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020 at 11:02 AM
  19. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Oil looks way over full?

    The snot on the oil cap is normal when you don't get the engine up to temp and burn it off. Still happens on modern engines too especially in the winter.
     
  20. TravelerMan79

    TravelerMan79 Farmall Cub

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    Haha. I never even noticed that. I haven't added any oil. i'll double check as I just left the dipstick in shortly after having removed it prior.
     

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