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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by TravelerMan79, Apr 24, 2020.
Great journal sir. I've enjoyed it and I'm excited to see it progress.
Thank you. There should be less talking and more doing on my part. Lol.
Back at er today for a bit. Seems summer just disappeared. Cold and rainy for the last three weeks. Had to start a fire a nights back. I'm going to weld a brace from the frame to the floor pan where it mates with the fire wall on both sides before I start removing what remains of the front clip. Still have to brace the driver's door as well.
I like the fact that I can still close the door to check gaps. Door still isn't really positioned ideally, but at least I'm trying to keep it the way it was when I got it. What remains of the rocker lip (which is the entire length of the lower lip) is straight and level. I'm lucky I still have that to use as a reference point on both sides. When time comes, I'll likely remove these braces and build some that bolt into the door stricker holes and upper hinge holes.
Got around to removing the dash last night. All was good until I got to the speedo. Quickly realized it wasn't going to be easy. Then I noticed a small crack in the plastic. I wondered if I had caused it as I had tried pulling on it a bit. I also noticed that only two of the four mounting screws were used to secure it which I thought strange. After a quite search here to see if there was anything helful, I decide to continue even though I really didn't find much of anything. I removed all the remaining lower dash moving bolts, and the two small Philips screws beside the "A" pillars. Also semi-removed the steering column cover but not all the way. Got the lower steel reinforcement bar out of the way which allowed quite a bit of flex I the dash to get my hand up behind it to reach the nut on the speedo cable. But still not enough room, so out comes the lighter base after much cursing trying to figure out what was keeping it held finally. Finally, I was able to get a smallish 3/4" open end wrench on the nut. When I managed to get the speedo out by tilting it and not pulling on it, I noticed more cracks, and actually a hole further down. Damn. The pieces are floating around inside. Not sure if I should get another, but ours are in kms and not miles...
Speedo with cracks. Large series in the lower right corner, and another just below the red indicator, but it cannot be seen.
Two major cracks and the hole. Pieces are inside.
Dash coming apart.
You can change the front of the speedometer pretty easy,just bend the tabs up.I have a few spares that dont work,but lens are scratched.Now for next time,under the hood there is a cruise control module ( you have cruise stock on the turn signal) unhook the cable there so you can slack it through the fire wall.
Thanks for the tip about the lens cover. I saw the tabs and was wondering the same. Yes, I have cruise, so at some point I'll need to tackle that. I want to keep the steering column in until I'm ready to pull the body as I'll need to manoeuvre it in and out of my garage. I suspect there are going to be a few more "issues" getting the dash apart. I see I'll likely need to fab up some tool to get the nuts off the various dash switches. Also not sure about how the heater control switch panel is he,d in place.
Rotisserie is not ready. No big deal. Suppose dot be ready end of this week. Wait and see. Hopefully by then I'll be ready to pull the body and motor.
Finally dash is out. Good thing I found a thread on the light switch knob being attached to the shaft. Made a "tool" out of some scrap steel to insert into the light switch retaining ring.
Light switch retaining ring tool. Lol. My "big" slot screwdriver was too small.
Rest of the nest that was peeking through one of the openings in the dash. It was resting on top of the glovebox.
Dash panel removed.
I noticed the "C" channel/rocker were looking a bit twisted above where I positioned my little screw jack. Impossible to tell from the pic, but it is also pushed up a bit. Door closes good, so even more important to support the body from the cowl somehow until I get it in the rotisserie.
The little jumper speedo cable from the CC module doesn't leave you any wiggle room (at least it didn't on my Travelall but I believe the Scout II's are the same).
Consider replacing your ignition switch and headlight switch while everything is out. Also consider replacing or disassembling/cleaning the wiper switch. I believe the wiper switch is made by Indak and it appears a similar switch new is available. https://www.indakswitches.com/rotary-switches/3-position-rotary-switches/
Main harness is outt. Not that bad actually. A few more things to remove, and then I can weld in the door braces on the DS.
Wire harness removed.
Thanks @MrKenmore for advice about the switches. When the time comes, I'll replace them.
Everything now removed except steering column and brake pedal assembly. Thought I already posted the previous post. D'oh.
Another great metal forming vid. Lots of hand forming shapes in the floor using wooden bucks/patterns.
16 gauge will be your limitation in that department. I used a planishing hammer for compound repair panels in my rear wheel housings. Other than that, not a whole lot the average person can do in 16 gauge. Prestretching the metal is pretty much required for all bead work in any gauge.
Man I want that steering wheel!!! Keep up the solid work.
Been busy the last couple of weeks as all 4 of our vehicles had simultaneous problems preventing their use. Got most of it sorted out and picked up my rotisserie from the shipper this afternoon. The welds are perfection. Very happy with the quality of the workmanship.
Sorry but no progress to report. Had to rig up a winch to move the beast out of the garage so I can finish the body work on my 08 MDX. As soon as that is done, the beast will be back in and hopefully I can get back at her soon.
Winching her out back down the driveway.
The CAN$75.00 Crappy Tire 2000 lb winch anchored to the floor. I think it will see a lot of use over the winter/spring.