torque specs for Warn locking hubs?

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by scout2000, Feb 11, 2019 at 1:48 AM.


  1. scout2000

    scout2000 Y-Block King

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    Took a trip in my 800 on Saturday which necessitated locking in the front hubs, and, as I was locking my hubs in, I observed several hub bolts that had loosened up. Up front, I have a Dana 44 from a 1977 S2 donor vehicle. These are the hubs that I'm running:

    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/...0a-pre-build-thread.113378/page-6#post-830073

    They came new but unboxed from another BP forum member, but did not include the install instructions, which, I'm assuming, would have also included torque specs.

    Some Internet searching turned up this page:

    http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/drivetrain/warn_hubs_installation_instructions.html

    Which makes this comment:

    Jeep, IH Torque to 27 - 31 ft. lb.

    I'm just looking for peer validation. Does this sound right? TIA for any validation, or better URL/pointer.
     
  2. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Sounds about the right torque 20190122_134930.jpg any of these specs match ? This was just handy.
     
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  3. Ron A

    Ron A Binder Driver

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    If it was the mounting bolts that loosened up, even torqued correctly they will probably do it again. There is a sheet metal type washer, that bends over, and is designed to hold them in place. Or, you can install studs and your done. Never had mine loosen since I went to studs. [​IMG]
     
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  4. Av8ing1

    Av8ing1 Farmall Cub

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    Maybe not the best option if you remove your hubs very often as fiddling with the snap rings can take some time. However, the bolts definitely are not going to back out.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-8901
    Hub.JPG
     
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  5. jmeister

    jmeister Farmall Cub

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  6. scout2000

    scout2000 Y-Block King

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    Thank you to everyone for your replies.

    I appreciate the validation of torque spec, but I think of much greater value is that I need to be looking at better bolt locking options. FWIW, the bolts in question currently, aside from the bolt itself have a flat washer + a lock washer.

    A (local) club member had also suggested that I should lock-tite the locking-hub bolts in question.

    I'm hesitant to throw myself/my 800 in mall-crawler status, but I do spend the bulk of my time on the highway at speed, vs in 4-low crawling. Its my own fault for not checking this area more frequently, but, no more. Once burnt, twice shy.

    Right now, I've got my original bolts torqued down, but I am definitely going to persue one or more of the other suggestions listed above.

    Don't know if there is any consensus or favorite(s) from above, but, I appreciate everyone's inputs !
     
  7. Darrel

    Darrel Y-Block King

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    I like the Warn stud kit with locking nuts. Warn designed it fix that very problem. Not sure if it comes with instructions, but squeaky clean threads and red loctite to keep the entire stud from backing out.
    The two systems I'm not crazy about are the bendable tabs and stage 8. They will keep your bolts from completely backing out, but they don't keep them from turning out a 1/16 or 1/8". After which it's only a matter of time before your hub implodes. At least for us hard core types. They also make it a pain to check the torque before your next off road excursion.
    Nord-Locks are pretty awesome. Guys are using them on full float rear hubs to keep the axle shaft bolts from backing out. Myself I use steel shim gaskets and loctite.

    Yukon has an internal hub kit as well. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=8415
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019 at 11:32 AM
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  8. scout2000

    scout2000 Y-Block King

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    I've been checking out the Nord locking washers after comments from above.

    Seems that Nord offers several different locking washer solutions.

    For those of you currently using, or minimally experimenting with the Nord locking washers, I'm curious as to specifically what you purchased?

    It seems that at least several Nord products are available thru Amazon, so once I figure out what I might want, the spending money part should be easy.
     
  9. scout2000

    scout2000 Y-Block King

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    I need to check this out too. Not sure that Warn studs are any better than generic studs, but I need to explore all my options.
     
  10. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    Just make sure the studs you select are a grade 5 or better (quality control counts!) and use stover type locknuts. Nylocs are nice until they get hot...
     
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  11. scout2000

    scout2000 Y-Block King

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    thanks for the comments. Is stainless a no-no here ?

    Never have been a fan of the nylon lock for any application.
     
  12. George Womack

    George Womack Y-Block King

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    Bottom line: it's important to check the tightness of the fasteners often if you are doing any serious 4-wheeling. Under hard use, the aluminum hub flanges wear slightly, and fasteners that were once tight will become loose.
     
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  13. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    Stainless is often grade 2 or 3...

    Stainless is used in the higher # grades just make sure you get the hardware from a legit source like Fastenal not Amazon/ebay who might tell you they're grade magaical or better with no regard to your safety...

    Can you tell I'm a bitter ol' acft mechanic...?
    It's okay -- my Scout still makes me smile... :beer:
     
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  14. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    Another vote for Nord-Locks. I have been using them for years and have never noticed a loosening.
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  15. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    George nailed it. It's called embedment and when the tension relaxes even a little you have more chance of breaking because the clamp load ain't there to keep things from rubbing or fretting.

    I think studs are the best because more of the torque is going to clamping than over coming friction of a bolt. I use prevailing torque nuts and they have shown to hold the best without fancy washers or locking types that can dig in the aluminum housing and may lead to loss of tension. I don't doubt the Nordlocks, but can you get them with a small enough OD to fit the hub recess?
     
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  16. dwengi

    dwengi Farmall Cub

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    I've had ongoing problems keeping these screws tight - even with Nord Lock washers and grade 9 fasteners properly torqued. Granted this is on a trail rig with 35s and front Detroit. There is some clearance between the hub body and the screw - so the hub will slightly move under high loads and gradually loosen the screws - at least that's my theory.
    I solved the problem by machining 3 of the 6 hub body screw holes to accept zero clearance shoulder bolts. These were match drilled/reamed to align precisely with the hub. This seems to have (knock on wood) solved the problem.
    I've heard internal hubs will eliminate this problem - and the next front end I build will have internal hubs.
     
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  17. Darrel

    Darrel Y-Block King

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    That's disappointing to hear about the Nord Locks. Internal hubs definitely eliminate that problem and are generally stronger all the way around.
    Plus you can use the Yukons which are pretty much the best locking hub available these days.

    Jerry, any grade 8 stud kit is fine. Just need the right shoulder length.
     
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  18. scout2000

    scout2000 Y-Block King

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    I think you hit the nail on the head here, and its mostly to negligence on my part. This is my daily driver, with a body that I'm not going to put into a position where I will roll it on its side, or anything close to extreme. On average, I probably lock the front hubs maybe a dozen times a year on average. And nothing I really do is that impressive. Still, doesn't mean it doesn't need/deserve the same attention that a vehicle being pushed much harder would get.
     
  19. scout2000

    scout2000 Y-Block King

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    Hello Darrel,

    Thanks for the reply. Is this the Warn stud kit you are referencing?

    https://www.gowarn.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=WAR34696
     
  20. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I believe, and going on the earlier post, IHPA has the WARN kits. Support IHPA!
     
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