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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by winchested, Apr 30, 2017.
Looking good! How's the weather up there?
Cold haha. Sitting right around - 5*C. Had enough of winter. Want to start working on the replacement frame, welding in a few gussets. Cutting off spring hangers, shock mounts etc.
I can deal with the cold, its the heat and humidity that kills me.
I always wanted to be north of the border. Since I was little. My family is largely from newfoundland, and I've always wanted to live in the okanagan. I'm super happy to see binders thriving up there. Way to represent!!
Been a productive day in the garage today.
-Roll bar main hoop cut out(was welded to the rise)
-drive shafts removed. (surprised the rear shaft is the exact same as the automatic version same length too)
-Front drove shaft was actually shorter than the other 2 I have here from autos but was twice the diameter, think it was custom)
-dana 20 and T19 dropped out the bottom.
-poly fuel tank removed (bonus 5 gal of decent gas for my snow blower)
I am ready to jerry rig the tub off the frame. Going to hang two 1 ton chain falls from the rafters in my garage, roll the frame out and set the tub on 4 saw horses.
Here's hoping my garage doesn't come down haha.
Then lower the frame and roll the frame out of the garage.
Well some redneck rigging and got the tub off the frame. Rolled the frame out to the drive. Unfortunately all the frame work gets done outside due to my garage only being a 1.5 car and having far too much other crap.
Ordered a new energy susp body bushing set, oh and ordered 2 Flowmaster 842451 stainless 50 delta flow 2.25 in 2.25 out series mufflers. That was a quick almost $500.
I wanted the 50s over the 40s because this is going to be a roof off 95% of the time, no door, with kids in the back 75% of the time kind of rig.
Finally met Mark G. Today he helped me out with a few parts I needed especially an 85% solid windshield frame. It's going to need a bit of metal work but it's all pretty much in easy to get to outer sections.
Yesterday I pulled the axels from under the scrap frame. The front seems pretty decent other than the chocolate milkshake oil in it (pinion leaks like a sieve). Rear axle cover has a rust through hole in it that I never noticed.
I'm crossing my fingers that all the teeth on the gear sets are good and that the bearings are solid. U joints in the axle shafts have about 1/4" play in the front.
Hoping just new inner seals in the front and pinion seals on both axels will last me a few years.
Separated the T19 trans from the Dana 20. Made sure the bull gear from the Dana 300 fits. Need to pull the top cover on the T19 to make sure all the gears and synchro s look good.
I them am going to put in an order for a top cover kit, T18 T19 gasket and oil seal kit. Also a dana 300 gasket and seal kit from Americanpowertrainwarehouse.com.
Started scraping the firewall and under trans tunnel.
Ordered my trans and transfer case parts from Americanpartswarehouse.com (found out after the fact they have horrible reviews) but I got my shipping notice today so we will see what comes in and whether I open a paypal disagreement.
Pulled the axles into the shop and sat them on stands, removed the diff covers on both. The rear end looks almost brand new inside. The ring does have some wear on the drive side but thats to be expected after so many years. Bearings all look good and clean. Oil level was low likely due to the pinion seal leak. Have to pull the yokes and see how bad it looks. All new brake hardware was installed, drums don't look hot but will work until I can afford a new set. (they will pass a safety check.) Brake shoes need to be changed out. Axle seals look dry but will be pulling along with the bearings to inspect/pre-grease.
Front axle looks like it got mud in it at some point in its life. Oil was dark brown and milky. Ring and pinion gears look good. Bearings sound squeaky. Pinion seal is non existent. Drivers side u joint is non existent (hopefully the axle ends aren't worn thru the u joint cups.) Front axle cover had a massive dent in it too. So I will need a new cover. Might be the time for one of those nice aluminum "Scout" covers or a G2 44 cover.
I will be pulling the front axle ends, brakes, spindles, knuckles etc tomorrow afternoon and putting my rock auto order in for engine parts needed and axle parts needed. Looks like probably a master front rebuild kit at the very least.
Also what do most of y'all do for axle vents?? The one on the rear axle tube that goes thru the brake divider block looks dead...
I'd like to get the vents tubed up higher with plastic check valves installed like what I have on my 2011 F150 from the factory.
Got the front axle torn apart today. The shoes in the auto hubs are worn out. Good thing I have a spare set that are like new.
Spring perch 85% shaped. Drivers side cut on the C yoke done. Pass side tomorrow.
Bearings look good actually which is nice. Squeak was due to the axles. Needs new seals and that's it.
Considering leaving the brake dust shields out too. Alot of people are 50/50 on these. Some love some hate em.
Drivers side C cut and ready. Axle wire wheeled. Need to power wash the pumpkin out now and then she's ready for the rebuild. Some day down the road lol.
Nice clean work. On the vents if there's a possibility that you might install an air locker one day then a large ID fitting in the pumpkin with a baffle is recommended. Pick a spot that the ring gear doesn't fling lube at. Drilling and tapping for 1/8" NPT is common, but press-in fittings are fine as well.
I'm just going to run 3/8 hose up from the vents that are there. I drilled them out larger and a hose will fit just right over where the crap cap used to be on the fittings. Going to just order 3/8 plastic check valves like all the new vehicles have.
I also got the rear axle all torn down today. Bearings on both axles are good as are the seals. Carrier and pinion bearings are good. The pinion on the rear is quite warn but I'll leave it for another year or so. The ring gear looks good. Carrier bearings are good. Cleaned out the tubes. Not too much crap. Wore out my wire wheel doing the front axle so need another to do the rear then they are ready for paint and welding when I finally get my CPT SOA kit.
Also punched all the wheel studs out of all 4 axle ends and need to figure out what sizes I need. Need about 1/4" longer on front and rear.
Got to my engine again. Got all the old gaskets scraped. Smashed all the core plugs out. And the Welch plug in the front cover area. Surprisingly not a single one of the old steel plugs showed any internal rust through. Nor did the oil gallery Welch plug.
Checked under 2 of the main caps. Bearings look mint as does the thrust bearing. Rod bearings look mint.
So I need to check the cam still and then can get to putting it all back together. Not going to bother re ringing it as my compression was in the 130s cold when I did the test. Cylinders look decent. Cleaned all the carbon from the top of the pistons too.
Got to sit down tonight and get that huge rock auto order put in. Going to be expensive!
Well put my rockauto. Com order in... Whew I might run out of money to get where I want to be by the end of the year.
Still have an order to put in with super scout and scoutpluss and IHpartsamerica.com.
Scoutpluss order might wait til next year.
Rockauto total was $1085 US... $1450 Canadian.. Our $ sucks badly!
So ordered the same leaf spring clips and pins that Bill USN used in his KB article. I'm leaving out the liner pads for now but if I do decide to use them I am going to go with the BDS pads but cut in half. I am going to build mine exactly the same. Got them from North shore off road in BC canada. They are canadas #1 BDS dealer. good prices and free shipping. Was $40 CDN for 8 spring clips and 4 pins.
I have 3 sets of springs to work with at home. Two sets of rears have the heavy overload spring at the bottom (79 and 80) and the other set from a deluxe 78 doesnt have the heavy overload in the rears. Ill post pics on Monday.
Love having a sand blast cabinet at work. Got my front brake caliper mounts, rear backing plates and diff cover done. Parts washed all the front hub equipment. Should be able to build 1 good set of auto hubs out of two. Cleaned the front chunk and pinion. Bearings feel good. So I'll just slap it all back in the housing with the new inner seals and pinion seal. Banged the dent out of the cover too. Need to get a high pinion front cover but it's not a must have just yet.
My passenger side wheel bearing hub is great, wheel bearings are great.
Drive side wheel bearing hub is smoked. PO must have locked up those wheel bearings at some point. Put new bearings in... Bearings are good but the inner race bores are NFG. Over. 020 thou slop in the bore... I have two hubs at home from a scrapped scout hopefully I can salvage one of them to use.
Check out these brand new hubs lol!
20 min in the blaster and boom like new. Both of the scrap scout hubs were good. One even had good bearings still the other was crunchy so I tossed those bearings and races. So now I have 1 spare hub.
Well got home from work and got right to a bit of painting. I'm using the Vht exhaust primer as it's the only high temp primer I could find round here.
2 coats. I'm going to bake in the oven tomorrow to cure and then paint black after the 7 day top coat time. Got a bunch more parts to paint and prime after this, mostly engine parts. 1 spray can doesn't go far. And at $17 bucks a shot it's expensive.
I should just buy a cheap hvlp and a quart of 2k epoxy primer...
Scored two 78 Bronco drive shafts today for $270.
The rear needs to be retubed which I will do myself and then get it balanced.
The front needs to be shortened about 4" which I will do myself too. Don't really need to rebalance the front as I'm not racing in 4x4 and not driving on the highway in the summer in 4x4. Buying two new transfer case CV yoke just trying to find the best price on those right now.
Oh and I ordered a 4x10" lean-to shed to get junk out of my garage and be able to get the frame I'm there to weld on it.
Do you have a dana 20? I have a cv yoke for a dana 20. Just pulled it off.