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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by winchested, Apr 30, 2017.
Parts scout II.
Well finally got around to putting the old Dunlop on the old late 70s eta alum rims. Still think I'm going to paint them black eventually. Or at least strip the crap clear coat and polish them.
I think with a 1" body lift and 5" shackles staying spring under I can easily fit 33 12.5 15s.
That looks good
Too bad your Mrs doesn’t like the yellow. It would look sharp without the extra black lettering.
A step in the right direction!
I'm starting to piece together a parts list to just get it on the road finally and maybe have it operational in 2 years. I want to drive away in it when the wife and I have our wedding renewal in 2 years.
You will probably fit the 33's but not want to drive it with the 5" shackles.
Why is that?
negative caster. These scouts were built with zero caster in the front end. Longer shackles will affect the road manners. To offset the squirrel feel, you can install some shims to point the pinion back down. Google bumpsteer, and you will get loads of threads about it.
I run a 4" RC lift with IHON 5" shackles with 33's. I do have caster correction wedges installed for daily driving. This really affects the pinion angle so unless you are swapping axles to Chevy or are prepared to do a cut and turn then you will have to make compromises. IH axles already come with 0* of caster so unless you have a 80' (which is the only axle with a few * of caster factory) model then longer shackles will worsen your caster equating to loose steering or to what most people describe as un-driveable above 40 mph. Cut and turn is the best option. Caster correction either through wedges or ball joints are more of a band aid. If you do some wheeling and stick with the band aids then you may find you have to shave your yolks slightly so there is no binding. I can drive 70+ loaded and straight down the road with my set up but I do plan on C&T in the near future to correct the pinion angle and further increase the steering security.
Okay thanks for the info.
If I planned on doing a C&T staying spring under for now but one day going spring over, what would the best caster angle be to go with and only have to do it once?
Or what if I installed the caster correctors for ball joints that SSS sells and some 1.5 or 2* shims? Could I get away from doing a C & T for now and still run the 5" shackles with a steering stabilizer?
Just doing some planning and thinking. Def staying spring under for now.
Im not planning any mega serious wheeling in the next few years any how. I live in south western Ontario where we have zero trails. More of a backroads and field/ beach cruiser.
Maybe I'll keep this spare front axle I have at home and set it up for spring over one day.
Dana 300 soon to be cleaned up with a new gasket set.
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Parts scout sawzalled in half!
Well scored a sweet set of American eagle outlaw IIs 15x 10 with 32 11.5 15 Laredo MTs on them. They are near mint and painted flat black. Will post pics when I'm home..
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Had to clearance the caliper with a grinder for 1/16th of clearance lol. The biggest culprit was the Allen head pin had to grind them down quite a bit. Also have only 1/8th " of clearance between the tie rod ends.
These wheels are 15x 10" with 4.25" back space.
Those wheels look great
Well finally got a chance to pull the door inserts.... Here's what I find....
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