Thoughts on preserving a windshield frame.

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by rustfreeTX, Jul 11, 2018.


  1. rustfreeTX

    rustfreeTX Binder Driver

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    My current windshield frame has some pretty bad rot on the under side and small rust holes on the top. I scored a solid frame years ago, it only had one spot of surface rust on the lip under the seal(glass is out), but when you move it around you can hear rust flakes, a few even drop out from the bottom. So, I know it's rusting from the inside and want to slow or stop that as much as possible. I don't think filling the hollow channels would be a good solution, but maybe spraying either naval jelly or POR-15 in there might help? Anyone tried this or have any other suggestions? I'm getting to the point where I may actually paint it, put in some glass and install.
     
  2. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 High Wheeler

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    If it were mine, I would put about a quart of Black Bear brand Par-Al-Ketone inside it and maneuver it to allow full coverage, then drain excess.
     
  3. Mark Aycock

    Mark Aycock High Wheeler

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    Thank you.
     
  4. Johnnycobra

    Johnnycobra Farmall Cub

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    I thought about using ospho poured into one, flushed and then after drying a few days, using something like POR15 or something like that par-al-ketone.
     
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  5. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    That par-al-ketone sounds pretty interesting. Another possibility is a two part epoxy or two part bedliner/urethane poured in and sloshed around - like they do to line the inside of an old gas tank.
     
  6. MrWolf

    MrWolf Farmall Cub

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    Anyone tried out Fluid Film?
    It's very popular over here in Norway with damp and salty conditions. Used for undercoating and is supposed to stop already formed rust, so should be ideal.
    I did some googling and ended up buying some of their products... :)
     
  7. rustfreeTX

    rustfreeTX Binder Driver

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    Thanks all for the suggestions. As we all know, a good windshield frame is pretty much un-obtain-iam these days, so I want to try and keep this one in the best shape possible.
     
  8. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I would dissolve the internal rust first, before trying to spray anything in there. See this post of mine about how I used a product called Evaporust to make the internal rust (mostly) disappear. The stuff is amazing. It litterally dissolves rust. Turns it to a black muck that wipes/washes off. None of this "conversion" BS:
    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/tailgate-hinge-tube.136803/#post-1016206

    You can kinda see from the pic in that post that I had to apply some ingenuity to immerse (this process requires immersion) one section of the WSF at a time: top, then each side/A-pillar. hanging it from a rafter in those orientations. Three day's soak per side. This way I was able to do it by just starting with 3-4 gallons of the stuff. BTW, it's reusable. When I was done with this job I put it back in its jugs and use it for other jobs from time to time.

    FWIW, the top section of my WSF here actually was pretty much rust free already. I just did this as a precaution. Most rust happens in the lower 25% of the frame, inside the cowling and corner areas.
     
  9. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Oh, and if you have a way of spraying in POR15 then go for it. It'll be hard to know if you're getting complete coverage though. My cowl section was removed and so I was able to just brush on POR15 where it was needed and where the rust forms the fastest. For the A-pillars and top rail I sprayed in some black waxy stuff that I got from Eastwood.

    And remember that moisture flow downward and collects at the bottom. Couple of small drain holes drilled at those spots wouldn't be a bad idea. Drill them first so they'll give you some good angles to shoot in your coating, whatever that ends up being.
     
  10. rustfreeTX

    rustfreeTX Binder Driver

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    Wow, that's pretty detailed. How were you able to see inside the frame, bore-scope? I haven't really taken a close look yet, but I seem to remember seeing a couple of small access holes on the bottom, so did you drill those out more or make different access holes? That dipping system was pretty inventive.
     
  11. Darrel

    Darrel Y-Block King

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    Have you checked with any stripping/coating shops? They can get every internal nook and cranny like you wouldn't believe. This is simplifying, but they strip to bare metal with a chemical bath process (phosphoric acid, caustic soda, electrolysis, baking) then they electrically apply a bare metal coating followed by zinc. I don't know what the price is for just a windshield frame, but when I checked into this a few years back my quotes were $7-1500 for an entire car.
     
  12. Dennis Bernth

    Dennis Bernth Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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  13. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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