The Quest begins...

Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by Caver Dave, Jan 30, 2009.


  1. R290

    R290 High Wheeler

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    I converted mine to -6 AN at the pump too. You would have to double check, but I think it's 10mm on the pump. You can buy a 10mm to -6 AN fitting. I did not find that part before I bought a weldable -6 AN and welded it to the stock Ford fitting. I think I silver soldered them together. No finished photo to look at.
    But the pic will give you the general idea. Bill has had good luck finding stock ss lines, but I ended up buying some.
     

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  2. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    To quote an old Van Halen tune...

    "Well, I think that you're headed for a whole lot of trouble"

    just getting started...
     

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  3. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Well...
    I made a "slight" miscalculation in the time it'd take to mill the bores out. Let's see, 5mm end mill swath x 44.46mm dia. equated to 1 full pass every 15 minutes or 5.5 hours of total milling! :censored:

    You can bet the next adapter will get done using a 1/2" mill! :yes:

    Initial bores are done, all holes drilled, & TB holes tapped. Still need to do the "blending" at the wide part of the TB side & countersink the manifold bolt holes. Close enough for tonight... um, this morning. It ain't professional looking or anything, but I'm pretty dang pleased! I'll fly some good pics up later tonight.
     
  4. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Sorry for the lag... Friday evening was a wash due to lack of sleep. Fell asleep on the couch 2 sips into my 2nd beer. :yawn:

    Yesterday, I used a Dremel w/ straight fluted burr & a couple sanding drums to blend the TB side of the adapter into the manifold side. While I'd hoped for a more polished look, it came out decent. Closing out the afternoon, I started the countersinking before my folks showed up for supper...

    Began this afternoon by finishing the countersinks & knocking the tops off the SS hardware.

    Top
    [​IMG]

    Bottom
    [​IMG]

    De-burred it with a razor, polished it with a bit of steel wool, wiped it down with some solvent, and it was time to drop it on. Without a special trip to the fastener house this week, I used some SS ovals (5/16"18 x 1.5" gave me just shy of 3/4" into the manifold) and took the tops down about 1mm so they'd clear the TB/gasket. Plenty of material left for the #3-#4 Phillips and they cleared fine. Fits like a glove BTW!
    [​IMG]

    Throttle bracket will need to be canted back a few degrees (for a straight pull) but should work fine!
    [​IMG]

    Depending on the weather tomorrow, might have time to drop the tank and start on the plumbing! :D
     
  5. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    lookin good.
    I raised my throttle bracketg to match the hieght.
     
  6. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    I'll look at spacing it out.

    Thinking I'd like to deal with the leaky sender/tank/plumbing this coming week... because I expect the final wiring (troubleshooting) & tuning will be ROYAL pita. Would like to break that up a bit and make it last on the list! :D

    I mounted the OEM SBC air cleaner (once the bench was cleaned & a nice pale ale uncorked)... it was SCARY how "OEM" it looked! Everything fits under/around it so very nicely... will be nice to actually KNOW what the air cleaner is off of when buying filters!

    (PS: Thanks again to Bill & others for your contributions to this board/forum to transfer the knowledge! :beer:
     
  7. gregj

    gregj Farmall Cub

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    Dave,
    That adapter plate looks better than the Holley I bought! :beer: Just check for vacum leaks under the IAC, they tend to leak near there because of the screw that attaches the plate to the manifold.

    Greg
     
  8. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Greg! If it functions better than it looks, I'll be in good shape! Fortunately, laziness & impatience interacted before I could program the mill to cut some super witty saying into the front face! Maybe I'll sneak "I could've had a V8" on my brothers? :D


    I kept the countersinks minimal and hand "fitted" the bolt under that corner. Gap between the surface and bolt head was only a couple .001"s, so hoping there's enough support for the gasket. If not, can I throw some RTV or non-hardening Permatex under it for the seal?
     
  9. gregj

    gregj Farmall Cub

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    A little RTV should do the trick. Thats what I did with mine.
     
  10. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Alright, I've been slack this week! Lot's going on, but did manage to retrieve the freebie exhaust system. My bud is converting his '73 Commando to EV (100% electric powered) and didn't exactly need it :santa:

    Despite the surface rust, it's in much better shape than my mangled/repaired/mangled/still leaking duals! The muffler appears to be Midas' "flowmaster" clone Ravin RA33... most folks like the sound
    [​IMG]

    With it here, I cut the "oilburner" adapter down. Just need to rough hang the Y to mark the location to burn it in
    [​IMG]

    Also, did a bit more "under the hood" and mounted the coil & EST. The orientation was chosen mainly for cooling, so it could get moved
    [​IMG]

    The factory SBC air cleaner appears it will have plenty of clearance under the hood. I'm debating gutting the flapper door since I have no provisions for the heat riser tube on the manifolds. Any issues with doing this (BTW, it's aged out for ANY inspection in NC)?
    [​IMG]

    It's *supposed* to warm way up (70s... where this week has been snow & teens) this weekend, so I'm hoping to make some serious headway. A co-workers boyfriend bought a Suburban for the engine and is giving me the ECM, sensors, TB, & fuel lines from the engine... he plans to run a carb and hacked the harness :hammer:
     
  11. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    no problem gutting the flapper. Or you can run a sheet metal screw in from the side to keep it open.
     
  12. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Had a good score this evening! Picked up spare:
    TBI
    Coil
    122747 (w/ ASDU)
    Round bulkhead grommet & several clamps
    Promise of the coil (EST) when it's pulled
    & what's left of the harness (*could* be spliced back together, but likely won't)

    neanderthal carb junkies :hammer:

    At least the price was right...
     
  13. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    when your done with this one...I bet you have lots of friends that will want help doing thiers.
    You just may need those parts!
     
  14. Sco(u)tt

    Sco(u)tt Farmall Cub

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    Dave...
    That adapter is exceptional. What thickness AL did you use?
    I'm becoming even more inspired!

    Dave/Bill...
    I figure it's a decent idea but is rebuilding the TBI recommended?
    Any special tools required?

    Thanks... Scott
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2009
  15. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    I used .75", but only because the 2100 used a factory fiber spacer. In hindsight, .5" may have worked just as well, but taken hours off the slow milling time.

    Outside of a couple Torx bits (disassembly, pulling TPS), flat bit screwdriver (pulling injectors), & large C-wrench (IAC & fuel fittings)... I don't recall anything off the wall.

    The only reason I "rebuilt" the TB... the gaskets are a no brainer (base gasket especially) and figured I might as well put in ALL the new o-rings, filter screens, & gaskets from the kit. AFAICT, the only way to get a new base gasket is to buy the entire rebuild kit or cut it yourself.
     
  16. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    My brothers 258 will be next... maybe not immediately afterwards, just "next". Until I'm SUPER confident in all the new bits (& my ability to intelligently troubleshoot it all) :sweatdrop:, the extra stuff will be stashed in the trailer just in case.
     
  17. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    I'm whipped! 15 hours straight yesterday...

    Started yesterday by dropping the tank & repairing a few things. I should have known better than dragging it inside without pressure washing the undercarriage... :nono:
    Everything is now plumbed 3/8" supply & 5/16" return. The pump & filter is also in place... just want to pull the lines and blow them out before making the final connections.
    [​IMG]

    That left exhaust... yanked the putrid duals and did a test fit of the single. It was tight in a few places, so had to clearance :hammer: near the tranny linkage & marked to O2 bung location. Once the bung was in, I realized that ANY R&R of the tranny linkage would be a major PITA, so I spent several hours getting it back in shape (after seeing the errors I made during assembly 8 years ago). Took another couple hours on my back getting the exhaust in place, aligned, & supported (might need another hanger later).
    [​IMG]

    Started pulling the old fuel line (forward of the new return union) and was gonna start on removing the OEM fuel pump, but... I'm toasted and wanted to eat supper. :beer:
     
  18. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Not much progress last night... Put a few of the OEM (Cheby) straps on the fuel lines where routed across/down the firewall and blew out the lines from front-back.

    I also got the fuel pump yanked and would've had the cover in place, but it appears out of the zillions of fasteners on hand, there were NO 3/8" bolts the correct length! :censored:

    Tonight, I'll button up the cover and begin mounting/installing the harness. I *think* the routing/layout should be good. I also picked up another OEM (FP?) relay (and dual relay mount) that I'm hoping to power the ECM with... just need to print out the diagrams in color to figure it all out :yes:
     
  19. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    The original diagrams have the wire colors on them and IIRC I listed the colors in the wiring FAQ.
     
  20. R290

    R290 High Wheeler

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    Your moving right along:D I printed that pdf wiring schematic and put it in a plastic sleeve and its in the glove box in case of trouble on the road. So far have not needed to use it. ( knock on wood) Just my 2 cents on wire splice. I tin both ends and then bend that into a hook. Then crimp them together with pliers and then solder. This gives you tank tough connection. I wrap that with some super 33 electrical tape and slip some heat shrink over that for a worry free splice. If you find you have some extra wire when laying it out your harness, just pull the wire back so it's double it up in the harness that way you not cutting it and having to solder. Once the loom it over the top you won't see the wires inside.
     

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