The Quest begins...

Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by Caver Dave, Jan 30, 2009.


  1. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    That's all true and that's the way I do mine.
    But with the SS lines there is a factory filter that screws right on and goes after the pump since lines are only 4ft long.
    It just gives another level of protection.
     
  2. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    I may plumb in the steel filter later... you can never have enough filtration!

    Ordered the fleabay E2000 lastnight and picked up a few more things today... relay (for ECM), FP blockoff plate, bright red lamp (SES), carb base gasket (for under the adapter), and a TB rebuild kit.

    Took about an hour (again, very slow & methodical) to re-assemble the TB tonight. Doesn't have that fresh boiled look, but she's clean enough for my rig.
    [​IMG]

    Pulled the Moss out from under the tarp in the backyard... appears the squirrels & rats had been living well inside! So it wouldn't be in way once I started, the hood & windshield came off. I siphoned the fuel tank in prep of dropping it to work on the sending unit o-ring (leaks badly, plus I want to check the sender BEFORE re-plumbing) and vacuumed the giblets & chewed acorns out before pulling her into the garage. Shouldn't be long before the old junk starts coming out!
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Here's the IAC wires.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    I think will that will do the trick Bill! :beer:

    Didn't get much done yesterday... the only "progress" involved removal of some dizzy parts, the old MC/DS ignition, the EGR, and "old faithful"... the MC2100. At least I'll keep some semblance of Ford parts in the MC/DS dizzy & Marquis MC (All Makes of Car) :D

    Tonight, I end up hauling home a bunch of steel, another York, and several cases of assorted auto fluids from a wheeler that's being "displaced" in a few weeks...

    Ready for the adapter:
    [​IMG]

    Trying to figure out *where* to route the wiring (battery moutn I made last year eats up the "good" firewall realestate!) should carry me until the pump & AL stock arrive...
     
  5. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Sounds like me every 3 years when I have to move.
     
  6. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Unfortunately, he's not active duty (since '79 or '80) or relocating for employment... just an honest, hardworking guy that is not benefited by "change".

    Anyways, was looking for a clean way to plumb a fuel pressure gauge and stumbled onto this adapter:

    [​IMG]

    Exactly what I had envisioned! A way to cleanly mount a gauge during initial tuning, maybe even permanently... just without the $40 ($9 "handling", but "free" shipping :rolleyes:) price tag!

    Anybody have a similar, less expensive alternative? Without trekking out into the frigid garage, I wonder if there's enough beef in the OEM adapter to drill/tap?
     
  7. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    There are better fittings out there but that will work.
    We have posted a couple different options on here.
    One uses a schrader valve so you can just install and remove the gauge while it's running.
    It was about the same price and was on ebay.

    The stock one could be drilled and tapped but you would have to be concerned with the location of the hole to screw in a fitting.
    You could probably mark a location with the fitting installed and then remove it to be drilled.
     
  8. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    I'll scope it out this evening! Picturing it my head, will likely have to add a bit of tube to get it away from the TB/out from under the air cleaner, but should be doable. Since I don't have a real gauge, would probably use a cheap Mr.G 0-15# (could actually use the 1 plumbed into my CTD, pretty boring since it doesn't move!)

    Should have the AL tonight (McMaster rocks!) and the other bits later this week! :yes:
     
  9. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Since there was zero parts joy tonight, burnt the majority of the evening unloading the truck of all the stuff I hauled away from my buds house last night. Managed to squeeze a few minutes in...

    Scrapped a couple Dells at the office last year and with this project in mind (been thinking about it LONG time! :yes: ) & held onto a nice big AL heatsink. Started out by putting a new blade on the bandsaw, & making sure it was running true.

    Chocked the HS up in the clamp (2x4 was perfect!) and cut it down the middle
    [​IMG]

    Halves prior to deburring
    [​IMG]

    EST with "nubs" cut off & lip flushed against the HS
    [​IMG]

    EST from the top
    [​IMG]


    All that's left is drilling/tapping the holes for the machine screws. Will likely grab a longer set and make the mount off the top side... so the breeze can blow thru the fingers :D
     
  10. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Looks good but a little tall.
    I'd cut the fins in half...or 1/4.
     
  11. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Yeah, a little excessive huh? :D

    On a complete derail, I was chatting with a bud tonight that runs a swapped in 4.3L fed by an E2000. His is mounted near the tanks midline (where I envisioned mounting mine). His tank is several inches higher (bodylift) and he's on his 3rd pump in 8 years. He thinks this is due to the pump being mounted too high, but running a filter AFTER the pump. I'm wondering if his pump attrition is due to filter placement, rather than the pumps relation to the tank?

    I was hoping to mount my pump in the same location, but that would put it level with the upper 1/3 of my tank. He thinks this will lead to shorter life. How does this relate to mounting the pump on top of the Scouts frame in relation to the tank? How far away from the tanks pickup did your location put the pump?

    OTOH, another bud with a Mopar FI conversion on a 258 is running the E2000. His filter & pump is mounted lower than the tank, but a good 4'-5' (tubing length) away under the crossmember. Original pump + 1 replacement in 10 years! (not bad IMO)

    Can I get away with mounting the pump (fleabay E2000) further from the tank to get it lower in relation to the tank? 5' of tubing *should* clear my anti-wrap bar frame side mount, get it to a point where it can be tucked, and still be lower than the mount offerings further aft.

    Thoughts?
     
  12. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    From the step by step FAQ. All my conversions have the pump mounted on top of the frame in front of the rear tire.
    Yes the pump will work harder if mounted above the tank because it has to lift the fuel then pump it.
    If below the tank gravity will feed the tank. But the pumps will operate above the tank.
    The filter is key to pump life. You need a filter before the pump.
    Anyone that has dropped their tank knows whats inside.
    I drove my scout on it's side and wiped the cap right off. scraped dirt in the tank.
    Took about 6 filter changes to get it out.
    But I still run the same pump.

    I haven't replaced a pump yet.

     
  13. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Thanks again Bill! :beer:

    Rest assured that I *HAVE* read the FAQ (and most of everything else posted), just have an "inquiring mind".

    IMO, you'd better completely understand ALL the aspects of your rig's system or you invite trouble... which for a wheeler, usually involves a LONG walk out of the woods or camping by your rig (while others fetch parts) to insure your rig doesn't get vandalized!

    Having talked to several others using the E2000, and read about every thread on the web that remotely mentions the E2000... I'm gonna mount it just forward of the tank on the frame (where originally planned) with a filter BEFORE the pump (as instructed) and hope for the best.

    Think I'll call my bud running the filter AFTER the pump tonight and suggest he move it BEFORE the pump too!
     
  14. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Keep in mind that for every 1 person that post here, there are 10-20 more that just lurk and read.
    So I always refer back the the FAQ's.
    If a question is asked that is not there then I try to update it.

    But I agree. If more people would learn about there vehicles and go wheeling prepared, the trips would be a lot more enjoyable.

    There is always the 1 guy that carries nothing, not even a spare and expects everyone else to get him back. The worst are the guys with big wallets and no common sense. Just pay someone to build a XXXX and then jump on a trail ride.
     
  15. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Yeap, reminds me of a caving bud years ago. The rule was never go underground without 3 separate light sources. He would joke that the anal retentive (me!) had 6 light sources, so he only carried 1! :hammer:
     
  16. R290

    R290 High Wheeler

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    Not sure if you bought something yet or not, but I found the Actron CP7817 worked out good. Like $34 bucks on amazon with free shipping.
    I ran -6 AN so it was very easy to install. You can get the adapter off of summit to convert TBI inlet to -6 AN

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    THANKS! :beer: A MUCH better option for me, since I'll be "assisting" my brother once mine's done
    Should be here in the next week... unlikely I'll be a position to USE it, but at least it'll be here :yes:
     
  18. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    Lost a couple hours this evening assisting my lovely wife with HER business taxes :flowers:

    AL block arrived, so I got it halved (plus, cut the fins of the HS down to about 1" tall). Later boxed them, EST, drills, taps, assorted tools, gaskets, several printed copies of "2 barrel tbi adapter.doc", and the TB to haul to the office tomorrow. Maybe I can get it done?
    [​IMG]

    The E2000 pump arrived also! I pulled everything from the package and was immediately struck with more questions (sorry Bill!)
    [​IMG]

    Left to right:
    Inlet fitting #1 = 3/16" ID... PFFFF!
    Inlet fitting #2 = 11/32" ID
    Outlet fitting #1 = 3/16" ID (camera angle makes it look larger than the other 3/16"ID fitting)

    The inlet side is a no brainer at the larger (but less than 3/8") 11/32"ID fitting, *IF* I can replace the tanks draw tube with that size. However, 3/16" is as large as the outlet will accept (pump outlet is threaded tiny... like straight 1/4"-20... 8mm is a stretch)! While the fitting could possibly be drilled slightly to open the ID up a bit, it'll never go large enough for a 3/8" supply past the end of the pump. Appears getting a 3/8" hose to seal well (without "bunching") on the tiny OD barb might present an issue too.

    Questions:
    #1- Is this the right pump? Meaning, is the typical E2000 outlet that small or does it have a larger ID than this pump? FWIW, the inlet/outlet sizes appear to be exactly the same as the FAQs E2000 photo...

    #2- If this IS typical of an E2000:
    A- How do you adapt a 3/8"ID hose to the dinky barb? I have some pretty Neanderthal ideas, but would rather have a secure leak-FREE joint! Unless I can find a screw in barb for a larger tube?
    B- An even larger question, is why bother with a 3/8" supply line, IF the pumps outlet is the real point of constriction (1/2 that dia.)? Maybe I need schooling on fluid dynamics?
    :confused:

    If this is NOT typical and the reason for it's cheap fleabay price, I'll likely keep it for a spare (not sure I can return it) and find something a bit pricier from the local parts houses. Buying parts like this online is a bit of "pig in a poke" anyway without being able to examine them beforehand... guess I should have asked the seller.
     
  19. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I understand your concerns but believe me when I say, it will work fine.
    Unless you try to run some bif HP motor.
    The factory uses this pump on a lot of different motors.

    The inlet and outlet are about 1/4" id. If you want a factory connection, most parts stores sell ford repair lines that have the connector and about 12" of line.
    You can also use the factory style metal ford filter.

    As for line size adapters, that's pretty simple from the brass fitting at home depot or lowes.

    Keep in mind that the longer the line the more losses due to wall friction.
    So by keeping the line larger it reduces the losses.
    The pump is capable of up to 95psi but the regulator in the TBI maintaines the line pressure at 13psi. The pump is good enough to maintain the required volume.
     
  20. Caver Dave

    Caver Dave Farmall Cub

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    I never doubted your info & data brother! :no:

    Just mainly wanted to be sure the generic "E(bay)2000" wasn't incompatible or cause issues. I didn't bring the inlet fitting with me today, but will likely need a trip to the parts house in the next few days.

    I brought my adapter stock in to make use of the uber nice drillpress, so hopefully I'll have an update this evening.

    Thanks again Bill! :beer:
     

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