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Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by Caver Dave, Jan 30, 2009.
So that's all those codes tell? Pfff!
I figured it was some super secret GM spy code!
Forgot to add that I also got several "spare" MAP/ESC modules & plugs (many hacked harnesses ), several air cleaners (none of the cool plastic type though), 2 retractable underhood work lights ,and 2 sets of the braided stainless fuel lines!
and ford pickup inline pumps?
Nah, the "fresh" pickins were slim. The only pumps we saw had been sitting on the frames in the mud or the lines were full of water. Will likely just go with the E2000s from RockAuto, unless the local O'R manager comes through with some decent pricing (O'Rs is 300' closer to my house, with AZ, AA, & NAPA side-by-side in a row )
Squeezed a few hours out Sat. evening to start on the harness...
After removing the cursed bulkhead fitting. I did manage to nick 1 wire with the dikes... not sweating that since I plan to shorten/lengthen them all. Haven't had an opportunity to start labeling (the keepers) yet, but think I'm gonna use waterproof first-aid tape & a Sharpee... hoping it may stay attached/readable longer than masking tape?
Stayed home today (didn't want to infest co-workers w/ the "croop") and figured I'd best stay out of the unheated garage. So, I did the next best thing... brought a few tools inside and whipped out an ALDL cable! Is there a way to test this cable (w/ DVM) prior to use?
I just made up another cable myself and i know it works so i can take reading on each pin and post them up.
I can give foward and reverse bias readings.
Should give you a good idea if yours is together right.
Alright, dug my $10 Fluke DVM out of the toolbox on the trailer... ready when you are!
ok here we go. you will need to maintain the same scale setting when taking readings.
pin 4= 9.8k
pin 5= open
blk lead pin 2
pin 4= 9.8k
pin 5= open
pin 4 to pin 5 open both ways
data to red
gnd to blk
data to blk
gnd to red
Thanks again Bill!
My meter reads 9.84K
I've got open both ways on this end. Does anything need jumpered on the 9pin end? Any chance this narrows down where to determine what's/where's poo-poo'd? (the 2 years of HS electronics I had 30 years ago has left the building! )
Using this test(s):
The transistor (MPS2222A) shows good and I'm getting 9.8k across both resistors (using continuity beaper)
Dropped to the "M" (micro?milli?) scale, I get 3.88 data-red/black-gnd... open swapped.
Also, Both leads ring out end to end
It may have more to do with the meter reading across the biased transistor.
If I go to the 200k scale I get 33k.
You may be fine.
Your transistor is an NPN right.
Arrow points out on the emitter.
Correct on both counts sir!
The site I found the transistor test on eluded that they were sensitive to heat & I didn't used a clip(heatsink) when soldering it up. Any chance it may have cooked enough to malfunction, but still ring out?
Since I procured a roll of waterproof first-aid tape tonight (already had the Sharpee's ) to begin labelling, I'll keep marching in that direction...
I would just hope for the best and try it.
I use forceps or my new little soldering kit came with a pair of little alum clips.
Even a alligator clip or paper clip would work.
But try to use some kind of heat sink between the heat and the component.
Sensors (- 2) connected & harness layed out:
Labeled & preened. Took about 4 hours working slowly, very methodically, & physically tracing each wire from ECM plugs to component termination:
About those 2 missing sensors ... the knock sensor had been damaged (still unsure how something got in there to hit it!), anyone have a spare for a 5.7? The IAC is there, but it appears the harness got hacked when the TB was snabbed prior to my harvesting (my TB is off a duplicate '88 2500).
Any time saving links for the circuits-IAC pinout?
Edit: Just bought replacement Dorman/Motormite/Connectite IAC & TPS plugs off fleabay... should be here next week.
tHE KNOCK SENSORS ARE THE SAME. iT'S THE esc THAT IS DIFFERENT.
Time saving tips for wiring?????
The more time you spend doing it right the first time means less time trouble shooting later!
Seems we never have time to do it right but always have time to do it twice!!
Thanks Bill. Wasn't trying to discount the process...
What I meant, is does anyone have a diagram showing circuits C3-C6 corresponding with the IAC plug pins? Since my plug is gone, the IAC doesn't reference which pin is which and likely, the Dorman replacement will have 4 un-marked/un-numbered black wires, I need to know what position on the plug each wire should be soldered. I have the colored PDF diagram, but nothing to reference the pins on the plug. My WAG would be:
... but would like to confirm.
I was under the assumption that the knock sensors were "frequency tuned" for a specific displacements and weren't interchangeable
Also, managed to cleanup the TB a bit. It was VERY grimy (TONS of blowby filth on the topside), but the throttle shaft is tight. Will grab a rebuild kit tomorrow for reassembly and a pattern for making the adapter.
I can get you the pin numbers off one of mine.
Thanks again Bill! A pic of the plug showing wire colors would work too.
I just ordered a chunk of AL from McMaster-Carr for the adapter (5" x 12" x 3/4"thick). Figured I should be able to 2pcs close enough to 6"L out of it. If I don't mess up and need the second chunk, I'll have it to make my brothers.
Hopefully, I'll drag my carcass over to O'reillys later today for the TB gasket kit, pump, fuel filter, & maybe see what bits I need to adapt the factory braided SS lines.
I use the factory GM metal fuel filter on the feed line then just use a short piece of steel line on the inlet of the filter to connect a hose.
For the first round, I'm hoping to run the plastic filter for a few reasons:
- Cheap and easy to source in any parts house
- IMO, fairly strong
- Easy to see fuel (or lack of) for troubleshooting
- Been using the smaller versions for years
At this point, I'm gonna shoot to mount both pump & filter along the frame rail (as you've done), using rubber lined loop clamps...