The "other" Scout

Discussion in 'North Texas Binders' started by Brett Whitaker, Feb 1, 2015.


  1. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Spent a chunk of today finishing the drawings for this Scout's electrical system. I'm pretty sure every wire and some new ones are documented.
    After that I pulled the steering wheel out of it and cut off the CPC connector I had put on it to replace it with a new stock connector. Here is the finished results.
    [​IMG]
    Next will be the connecting wires from the new harness and check this part out.

    Brett
     
  2. CoopVA

    CoopVA Binder Driver

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    Well done! What did you use for making the labels?
     
  3. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    I use a Kroy shrink tube printer I bought about 15 years ago running on a Windows 95 machine. After shrinking the wire label tubing I shrink clear tubing over it to keep the lettering underneath from smudging.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Finally a couple of days to do anything I wanted to do. I've been working on the wiring for this future daily driver and thought I'd share some pictures. I've seen enough green wires that I'm probably going to be dreaming about them. So far I've not really run into any issues. Abut the hardest thing was removing the well crimped wire from a 5/16" Packard type connector because I only have the 1/4" ones. I'm glad I've got the drawings of all the circuits I've made. I have about 80% of the cab wiring completed with both ends connected. For the most part I think it is about time to put in the dash and complete it there. Here are some pics. And thanks to Mike Goodwin for the Moles socket crimper. That thing works perfectly.

    Oil pressure/temperature gauge
    [​IMG]

    Hazard and turn signal flashers
    [​IMG]
    Ignition switch
    [​IMG]
    I'm not completely thrilled with some of the double wire connectors. I'm hoping they will be fine. At least I did put shrink tube over the very short section of copper. These on the second part of the ignition switch connector.
    [​IMG]
    Realized I'm missing one wire on the steering wheel column connector below.
    [​IMG]

    Speedometer connector
    [​IMG]

    Ammeter and fuel gauge
    [​IMG]

    Brett
     
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  5. scout2000

    scout2000 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Brett,

    Your wiring & labeling look great.
     
  6. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    So you think you have green wires....

    [​IMG]
    Back side of dash, though it is hard to tell. More fun tomorrow.
    Brett
     
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  7. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    It's looking better. Most of the wires in the first picture can't be terminated until it in the truck. There are a lot of ground wires and panel and courtesy light wiring. I did cut a slot in the plate holding the two fuse blocks to make it easier to get the wires terminated.
    [​IMG]
    The other end is looking pretty good. The two bulkhead connectors are for the engine and rear harnesses.

    [​IMG]
    Now some testing is in order.
    Brett
     
  8. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    I connected all of the other halves of the harness to the bulkhead connectors and started testing all of the circuits from the beginning of the circuit to the end even if it is un-terminated. Made it through about 2/3s of the circuits. Everything associated with the CVR didn't work. So I'll have to find another temp/oil pressure gauge and give them a try again. Then I found a problem with the trailer wiring harness. Something is shorted there. It is kind of cool to be able to pull the hazard switch on the steering column and have the feed from the battery/ammeter all the way through to the rear turn signal lights and through the grounds back to the battery. Glad the wife doesn't mind my using the TV trays to lay all this out on. :dig:

    I realized I had never done the new wiring for the front turn signal/running lights. So I'm doing that now.

    Most relaxing/fun four days in a row I've had in a long time.

    Brett
     
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  9. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Drilled the holes for the front bundle bulkhead connector through the firewall. Then laid in the harness. The one dangling wire goes to the brake switch to detect a loss of fluid when the pedal goes all the way down.
    [​IMG]
    This next one looks into what will be behind the driver's side headlight. Bottom relay is for the horn (dual). Next relay up is for the low beams. And the upper relay is for the high beams.
    [​IMG]
    I plan on getting all of the front light wiring completed tomorrow, except for driver's headlight. I short some Packard 59 Series terminals. I should have those by next weekend.
    Green wires are all 14 awg. The red, black, and purple wires are all 10 awg. There is two layers of clear heat shrink over the connectors connected to the horn, though it is hard to tell.

    Brett
     
  10. Tres03

    Tres03 Binder Driver

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    Looks awesome Brett. Is it going to be ready for the bash?
     
  11. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    April, no. I am actually going to make a goal to have it done by the middle of August though.
     
  12. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Did some more work today. One of the issues I've been trying to resolve is the mounting of the second battery on the passenger side inner fender. I've done it before, but was never very happy with the results which made everything physically very close with the battery encroaching perpendicular to the fender. It was hard to get to anything on the passenger side of the engine. So it finally occurred to me at it's an Optima battery and can be mounted other ways than the normal upright position. So the solution is to mount it this way. It makes for a much better fit. this is looking straight down from above. Lots of clearance towards the engine. Compressor is not a problem and plenty of room for the jack.
    [​IMG]
    I didn't have to the same for the other side, but thought I would and also trimmed down the battery holder to get the battery a little more forward.
    [​IMG]
    Then I mounted it up along with the overflow tank and the switch to feed from either or both of the batteries.
    [​IMG]
    Then finally I did get the hole for the engine bundle bulkhead connector drilled out and the engine side of the harness connected.
    [​IMG]
    I'm going to try to start spending evenings working on it. Next up is the battery isolator and cut, crimp, and install all of the battery related cables.
    Brett
     
  13. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Got a little work done this weekend. Finished off the front end electrical on the driver's side and made a better jumper for the Mean Green starter to go between the S and B terminals. Not much to brag about. In the process of trying to find the box with all of the electric window stuff in it, I did run across my DUI distributor. Someone we know in Arkansas was wanting it. It only took me 6 months to find it. :sweatdrop:
    Brett
     
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  14. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Just ordered this dual backup camera system for this truck. One camera will go on the license plate for the normal stuff. The other will be mounted underneath the roll bar so I can see the boat while towing or backing into the lake. Now modifying the electrical drawings to include powering these things when in reverse or by a switch in the cab.
    Brett
     
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  15. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    I received the camera system on Friday. Their directions are not the greatest, I still have one question for them. I was trying to remember how the wiring for the license plate light got up into the tailgate. It comes in on the bottom edge, the best I remember. I didn't want that wire, two grounds, and a power and video cable for the license plate camera all coming out the bottom and having all that movement. So here's my solution. Tailgate hinge for the fiberglass tailgate.
    [​IMG]
    Now drilled with a half inch hole.
    [​IMG]
    This should minimize the movement of all the cables and will be pretty stealthy at the same time. The hole is not perfectly centered, but will do. The tailgate is so light, I can't imagine there will be any strength issues.
    Brett
     
  16. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Roll bar mounted backup camera:
    Bent up a piece of angle and made a mount for backup camera to be mounted on the bottom side of the roll bar.
    [​IMG]
    Some more bends and little paint and it's done until mounted.
    [​IMG]
    License plate backup camera:
    It won't really mount on the stock license plate bracket due to where the light is. So I'm going to mount it in front of the license plate bracket on the slopped (close to horizontal) surface of the tail gate. But the camera bracket wasn't really designed for that. So I had to cut off the little lip, the part at the bottom of the bracket in the picture.
    [​IMG]
    Then mark a notch in the camera housing so the lens can rotate higher, instead of pointing down toward the ground.
    [​IMG]
    Also had to cut some on the backside, for the same reason, for the wire.
    [​IMG]
    Then it all back together.
    [​IMG]
    Hopefully more wiring in the engine compartment before the game.
    Brett
     
  17. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Got most of the wiring done under the dash for the backup camera. Here is the drawing I'm using.
    [​IMG]
    The only thing I don't have is the "manual" switch to power the cameras and monitor that is below and to the left of the fuse block. I'm thinking about installing another headlight switch in the dash. That would give me at least two circuits to power other things off of. Anyone else installed a second headlamp switch and for what?
    Brett
     
  18. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Trying to keep the interior as stock looking as reasonable. So I put in a hole for another headlight switch. This one will be for the air lockers and pump control. Pulling the knob out to the first position (parking lights) will start the air pump. The second position (headlights) will engage the rear locker. Turning the knob all the way counter clockwise (interior lights) will provide the ground to engage the front locker.
    [​IMG]
    I did have to grind some of the insulator on the switch some on the back side to clear the little "box" where the panel light bulb goes. I'm going to cut a rectangle for the acrylic light bar that runs across the back and add "LOCKER" lettering on it, so that it will illuminate when the panel lights are on.
    Brett
     
  19. cbsquidss

    cbsquidss Farmall Cub

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    I was wondering about the fit-up of the FB parts - I have the Kentrol tub, outer fenders, windshield frame in FB with new Kentrol steel inner fender walls (and the original steel hood). I assumed that as I purchased everything from Kentrol circa ~2007 (its all been laid up in a garage until recently) that the pieces would fit together like Legos, but no, that's not the case. I am going to have to start doing some trimming and wondered about your experience - looks like you have got the gaps dialed in well here. Any advice or pics of fitting the panels?
     

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