Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Diesel Tech' started by Paul, Jul 23, 2002.
Mike Moore who owns Scout Co.
Here is the link to the downpipe: http://www.scoutcoproducts.com/products/118-downpipe.aspx
I think that the current versions are only 2.5 inch, which is supposed to work just fine. I personally have one of the original ones with a 3" straight pipe on my Traveler, I think it's excellent. I actually had to read through the old part of this thread just to see if I had commented on anything, man time flies....
Nobody makes the 3" anymore? What is the diameter of the stock pipe? Also, when you take it to the exhaust shop to have the rest of the pipes welded, is it worth the extra money for mandrel bends?
I have a few 3" EE that i made some time ago..
Sergio, I was about to buy one from Scout Co. What are you selling yours for?
The original EE was made to take into account that IH people are "frugal". That is why the EE was 3"... because most exhaust shops when they bend pipe don't have a mandrel bender.... and end up making 2-1/2 to 2-1/4" pinches in the pipes.
So I'm finally getting around to putting in the EE that Mike (MyDieselScout2) gave me several months ago, and i am having a b!t%h of a time getting the four stud bolts out of the turbo. I got one out using 3 nuts wedged together and then using my impact driver to get it out, the the others are stuck. I sprayed some penetrating oil on each but still wont budge. Does anyone have a solution for this or am i just going to have to fight the lase 3 till they come out.
Locktite makes a product called "Freeze & Release" that works well on rusted or seized nuts and bolts. It has a freeze agent to cool the part and a lubricant. Heat up the nut or bolt and then spray it with Freeze & Release. The freeze agent rapidly shrinks the part and that will cause it to draw in the lubricant. It can be pricey at about $15 a can, give or take but it does work. I've used it with an Oxy/Acetylene torch as well as MAPP gas and had it work with both.
Freeze & Release - Amazon.com
I recall them being a b*$%h on mine. My usual approach is to prop/tape the propane or mapp torch in place and let it heat the piece while I do something else nearby, (with bucket of water handy, I have yet to set anything on fire with this approach, but give me a few more tries...) Then apply PB blaster liberally to cool the bolt.
A propane torch and PB Blaster is what I used as well; and a really long breaker bar for leverage. I used stainless bolts and copper anti-seize when I put everything back together, for posterity's sake.
Kroil worked well when Carl and I did this years ago. Be sure to let it soak for a while.
Well I got the last three out this afternoon; i borrowed a neighbors pneumatic impact driver which I guess has more oomph than my electric one and the last three studs came out easily.
I soaked again yesterday afternoon with PB Blaster and maybe that helped out some.
I tried the breaker bar but no matter how tight i wedged the nuts together, the nuts turned instead of the stud.
I spent the next three hours pulling my exhaust pipe and taking out the turbo (I have a spare from Eddie that i am installing). I will finish putting it all back together tomorrow morning and then taking the Scout to an exhaust shop and having a new pipe made up.