Steering wheel removal problems

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by sean30ber, Jul 8, 2006.


  1. sean30ber

    sean30ber Binder Driver

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    So I buy a puller. Cheap but hopefully works. NOT. I followed the directions even though ive done i before. 1/4 turn tap with rubber mallet, repeat, repeat,repeat and pow one of the bolts pops in the threads. Puller now useless. Ive beat the living hell out of this steering wheel with a rubber mallet and it wont budge. Cant use another puller with a bolt snapped off. What now. Thanks Sean
     
  2. john a karcher

    john a karcher Farmall Cub

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    I have had to take mine off before several times with a regular hammer. I dont advise this though because it is too easy to chip the original steering wheel and to ruin the threads. Basically I had to put the retaining nut on the threads untill it was flush with the top to protect them (the nut upside down to pretect it). Then a friend had to get in the back seat and I pounded it with a hammer while pulling hard on the wheel. It eveentually pops off. Like I said though, I used a hammer made for metal and it isnt the best way. Good luck. I hope someone else has a better idea then mine, I am also interested. I guess the only other option is to have the broken bolt extracted. GOOD LUCK
    john
     
  3. scoutman800

    scoutman800 Y-Block King

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    that bolt's gonna have to come out. is there enough sticking up to get vise grips on it? my puller was a cheapy too and i had to go get different bolts to work on my wheel. it didn't come with the correct thread bolts. works fine now, still a pain to get the wheel off, but it comes off. most likely you will break something trying to wham it off, john got lucky.
    i just reread your post, my puller works by tightening the bolts, then tightening a large bolt in the center till it pops off. usually doesn't take much but a few turns and it's loose. i don't see how a rubber mallet will put enough slam into it to get it to budge and i don't like the idea of using a metal hammer.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2006
  4. tired iron

    tired iron Farmall Cub

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    Try putting tension on it and spray some PB blaster on the splines and let it set overnight. If you have to use a small sledge use a block of wood, and try this sequence, tighten strike tighten strike. :)
     
  5. Phil Kicksee

    Phil Kicksee Farmall Cub

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    My fovorite tool for this is a big brass hammer if that helps.
    It has to be a sharp smack more than a heavy blow! :D
     
  6. Paul "Misterfixit" Schulz

    Paul "Misterfixit" Schulz Super Mod from Downunder Staff Member Administrator Moderator

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    DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE A HAMMER ON A STEERING SHAFT EVER!

    Now i caught your attention, loosen the center nut and back it off enough so it is clear of the steering wheel, but leave it screwed on enough so that all the threads are contacting - if you don't you may lose your teeth, then get in there put your feet firmly on the floor, grab the wheel on each side apply pressure by pulling it, rock it back and forth ie push one side pull the other. The taper will release and the steering wheel will come free.

    I havn't had one which won't come off yet, i stopped using s/wheel pullers 20 years ago - too many striped threads etc. If it still don't come off you didn't eat you weeties! :D
     
  7. sean30ber

    sean30ber Binder Driver

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    I soaked it last night. I go on duty at 6:30 so ill try it again this afternoon. The bolt broke flush so I have nothing to grab to remove it. I was hitting the back of the steering wheel with the hammer not the front. I thought about a come-along to the roll bar for tension then hitting the back again. Its a tilt wheel and I dont want to mess the column up.
     
  8. john a karcher

    john a karcher Farmall Cub

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    Just to clarify on the earlier reply from me. Sorry about that, I was unclear. I meant that I wouldnt use the hammer, but I have had to do it. It was a broken key in the ignition switch and in the middle of nowhere the first time.
    john
     
  9. Sammy

    Sammy Y-Block King

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    The easiest way is to drill it out, you will either hit or miss the threads. I intentionally drilled and tapped mine to 5/16" cause I would bend the bolts when I pulled the wheel off.
     
  10. scoutman800

    scoutman800 Y-Block King

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    "then get in there put your feet firmly on the floor, grab the wheel on each side apply pressure by pulling it, rock it back and forth ie push one side pull the other. The taper will release and the steering wheel will come free"

    okay paul, but we all don't have popeye powers! so any peewee herman pencil neck types gotta sell their scouts................. :D
     
  11. sean30ber

    sean30ber Binder Driver

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    Just for piece of mind, I removed the horn,removed the shaft nut. Thats all, right? There is a plate over the wheel but its just pressed on the steering wheel cuff, not the shaft. Am I missing something:eek: . Is this a bonehead moment:eek:
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2006
  12. bluescout

    bluescout High Wheeler

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    Here's what i always did, set up the wheel puller, crank it tight and give the big center bolt on the puller a nice sharp whack. hard hit with a small hammer is better than a light hit with a large hammer. It breaks the friction on the taper.

    A small drill and a screw extractor should get that busted bolt out easy.
     
  13. SCscoutguy

    SCscoutguy Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    When I took the Rallye wheel off of my parts Scout I needed to go and buy different bolts for the wheel. None of the bolts in any of the three wheel pullers I own were the right thread size for IH wheels. Then I soaked the splines with Kano Kroil and put the puller on it. I used my 3/8" socket wrench to turn it a few times here and there throughout the day. I just kept on turning it when I would walk by and the next morning I went out and the wheel had popped itself off from the tension. Maybe you could just keep constant tension on it and it will work for you to. :)
     

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  14. Paul "Misterfixit" Schulz

    Paul "Misterfixit" Schulz Super Mod from Downunder Staff Member Administrator Moderator

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    I hate spinach! so maybe they is the powers of 'the Thing' lol :D seriously it aint hard to do, a little practice makes it easier all the time, hey here's a thought - send me a plane ticket an i will come over and remove it for ya!
     
  15. ScoutmanSV

    ScoutmanSV Y-Block King

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    +

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    [​IMG]

    Kinda glad I didn't use the puller 1st as I found out what that wheel was made of .... :eek:

    .02,

    :cool:
     
  16. Thomas

    Thomas Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    ---Yeah, I love all the talk about hammers. Especially considering that the columns used in Scouts are collapsable and the sheer pins are most likely damaged already since there were so many saying, "Yeah, use a hammer". The pastic pins holding the column from collapsing are made to sheer on impact... so we use impact right? I suggest a service manual before you take on the next job by yourself, with or without advice from people who should* know.

    ---As for the thread size that was mentioned previously. I believe they are metric. I myself have had no luck with standard thread bolts in my bins and metric is what comes in the puller kit also. The bolts are definitely not strong enough to pull the column. So, since you can't hit it with a hammer, all I can suggest is tightening it down real good and letting it sit for a couple hours and pull itself. HOT water and vinigar mix will break the rust bond too so there's a little heat, not much but some. PB Blaster is my second favorite penetrating oil, with WD scratched off the list.

    ---To get the broken one out? <scratches head> Maybe a left hand drill bit, then lightly* tapping a hex socket into the hole you drilled if it hasn't backed out already? Maybe a dremel tool used as a scriber to carve a groove in the broken bolt and then use a standard screwdriver? Maybe you can get a real* sharp chisel and very light hammer on the last thread and kick it sideways and unthread the bolt at the same time?
     
  17. Thomas

    Thomas Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    ---Soe of us are dying to get to Oz and you want a plane ticket here? Why, so you can hang with Jamie, John (Twisted), Morris and I in Chi-town? Now that would be cool. An Ozzie, a Rebel, a Cajun, an Indiana redneck and a temporary transplant (AKA Alabama Yank). Good thing I know where we're going... or I'd be scared for my own safety :p :rolleyes: ;) :cool:
     
  18. sean30ber

    sean30ber Binder Driver

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    Thank you all. I was able to drill and remove the bolt. Got some new ones and presto, off she came. Here is the finished product. Must have been a bad bolt because it popped right off. I wasn't sure how tight to make the shaft nut on the new hub so I tightened it until it was snug then went one turn. This gave me about 3 to 4 full threads exposed. Is this enough.
    Now I just have to finish the drivers floor in Herculiner and re-route my speaker cables.

    Oh, Thomas- I have a manual. My buddy is using it to rebuild his truck with. Thanks for the comment.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 8, 2006
  19. Dan Powlus da duke

    Dan Powlus da duke Binder Driver

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    O.K> with all this talk about wheel pulling, I got mine off easily enough, but now need to get the center piece off BEHIND the wheel, as my turn signal thing is broken. I will be searching some more, but am open to info on this as well.

    Thanks,

    Dan

    p.s. Sean, the new wheel looks good! :)
     
  20. corncrasher

    corncrasher Farmall Cub

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    There is a metal ring kind of like a snap ring holding the piece behind the wheel on. You need to push the piece behind the wheel down and remove the ring with a pick or small screw driver. It is possible to do without any special tools, can be kind of a pain in the but though.
     

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