Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Whitten, Jul 9, 2019.
HA! I called it.
you can remove the pin and reuse it. You're lucky, the cam I bought had a notch but it didn't go all the way to the "face" of the cam, had to modify. If it's like my 304, then a little bit sticks out beyond the gear to catch the fuel pump cam(the big offset washer)
Also, on a side note, I'd been running on 6 cylinders for years, got one problem fixed but the last one is a broken pushrod, been just running it as is, but I'm also rebuilding another engine, slowly.
Heres another thread about bent pushrods. Lots of usefull info. http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/causes-of-bent-pushrods.111754/
I’d be checking the valve associated with the rounded out lobe very carefully.
What is the best way to do this? Another post advised me to hit it with a mallet, but what am I looking for. I did that to all the valves and they seemed to make noise as if they were moving? What else can I do to check the valve?
I was not able to work much today. I am waiting on the gaskets and push rod I ordered. They should be here tomorrow. I mentioned it above that I hit on the valve springs and there seemed to be movement? Any other advice on checking the valves, any other methods before I button this thing up?
I would think a leak down test would be a good indication of the condition of the valve. Good that it still moves, but if it is bent and or damaged it should not seal.
Using the rocker stand bolts, fabricate a temporarily "bridge" between two adjacent to the valves you want to test (or you could use the rocker shaft in the stands with the rockers removed, though don't mix the rockers up from their original positions). This gives you a fulcrum spot for one end of a prybar. Use that prying spot with an appropriate pry bar to push down on the valve stem (not the retainer!) and you will be able to work the valve thru more or less the same amount of travel it would have normally. There are special tools for this but on the occasions where I found it necessary to do something similar, my toolbox usually had what I needed. Make sure the piston on the cylinder is down a ways so you don't hit it with the valve. Again, don't pry against the retainer or you could pop the keepers out and drop the valve into the cylinder.
starting to reasyble everything. I have a quick question. Does anyone have a diagram of the pulley assembly that goes on the harmonic balancer? there is a washer or spacer of some sort and two pulleys that go on there. I should have taken more pictures during disassembly, I am not sure how they piece back together. Any quick references. The book doesn't seem to cover this, or at least I can't find it.
Pics of what you have to install will help ??
I figured out the pulley assembly...or at least I think I did it looks right and belts are lining up so we should be good.
Got all the lifters in on the PS, I used a little light and hung it down in one of the push rod holes and looped on one of the spring pins. It really lights up the hole and makes things visible in the valley. Just need to install the push rods and rocker shaft and valve cover on this side then on to the other side!
Just thought I'd mention that you need to make sure to get the oil holes lined up to the correct rocker stand. Maybe you know this already.
I ran into another problem. I bought a set of Schneider Lifters from Anything Scout. Well I was going to start installing on the DS and two of the lifters have pitted out spots on the exterior wall of the lifter. Not sure if I want to wait to resolve this. Would it hurt to put two different brand of lifters in place of the two faulty ones from schneider? So I would have 14 Schneider Lifters and two Lifters from another company. I assume this is fine as they are being paired with a new cam anyway, but just want to check. Any thoughts, send me any recommendations of brand if you want. I just thought I am putting in a schneider cam so why not use the same brand lifters and they are about the same price as many of the others for the most part. I know there are threads with this topic and I will check those as well.
NO, this is news to me. What exactly are you referring to? Are you talking about lining the lifter oil hole with the rocker stand?
No the whole rocker assembly is oiled thru only 1 of the rocker stands (where its bolted down) you need the make sure the oil hole in the head matches the rocker stand oil hole in the bottom.
If I put the same rocker assembly back on the same side, shouldn't they naturally line up? Sorry if I sound stupid, but I have never done this before.
Here are the two culprits! It makes me mad that these were allowed to leave the manufactures faculty. Those pitted areas might not be a big deal but I just can’t see putting these in there when all the others are perfectly smooth! Hope they send my replacements yesterday!
It should but just double check anyhow.
Is that a pit , if so.I'd send the whole set back. Seal power lifters are as good as any fifter you'll find. Made by Johnson. They make them for many company's. B8t, if you have a failure, then it's too late. I'd change them now and not take a chance.
You are correct about defects like that not making it past QC, but that said pits in those areas are essentially meaningless in the long term. They will just carry a little extra oil.