SSIIBuild, build thread

Discussion in 'Southeast Binders Association' started by Randy Groenhof, Aug 17, 2008.


  1. Randy Groenhof

    Randy Groenhof Binder Driver

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    progress report:

    Friday I picked up most of the goods for the steering linkage. I'm still waiting on the two left had thread tie rod ends to come in. We are using chevy tie rod ends for the right hand thread and dodge for the left hand thread. They are basically identical aside from thread direction. The threaded inserts and tube came from performance offroad. We went with 1.5'' .250 wall DOM for both pieces, I think it'll hold.
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    I also swapped the front springs side to side and bolted in 6* shims at the same time.
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    I finally got around to finishing the front bumper. I ended up chopping the tube work down and in about an inch. I'm really happy with how it turned out. It's a very tight package for a 12,000 pound winch.
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  2. Mark B 70SR2

    Mark B 70SR2 High Wheeler

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    OK, I have to ask....aren't those shims in backwards? I realize that it is SOA instead of sua, or is there something I'm missing?
     
  3. Jeff Joyce

    Jeff Joyce Binder Driver

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    Looks awesome.

    So, when you pulled the springs, did the arc profile and length match?

    It's obvious that the driver's shackle has more angle, so what's the deal?

    It appears that the drivers spring perch may be slightly shorter than the passenger side, but I don't think that supports the shackle angle information. I'm grasping for straws because I can't tell why it's leaning. I suppose raising that spring perch a bit would level it, but I know that's not preferred.
     
  4. Randy Groenhof

    Randy Groenhof Binder Driver

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    Mark, With the suspension setup we ended up with to much castor using the stock chevy spring perches (the passenger side is cast in to the housing as well as the studs for the spring plate). The shims look backwards because we are taking away castor not adding it.


    Jeff, the angle of the pics are misleading, the shackle angle is very close to dead even. There is about an 1/8'' difference between the two measured from multiple common points on the frame on both left and right sides. There is a small height difference between the spring perches that does not help but I'm sure is not the sole cause. I'm really not worried about the lean. The front half of the truck has been hanging off jack stands for weeks waiting on us and a Ruff Stuff back order. I'm not making any adjustments until we get the rear done and drive it some, then we will re evaluate.
     
  5. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    All I can say is you have some serious skills when it comes to building these rigs. I think I already said this , but if I haven't I will say it now. SSII is a lucky man to have a rig in your care. Randy :rockon:
     
  6. Mark B 70SR2

    Mark B 70SR2 High Wheeler

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    I forget yall get a little fancy with the springs up there in the hills... thanks. I am still sweatin' my first cut n turn. I was able to pick up a little castor oil at the pharmacy today so maybe I can put off the cut and turn for a little while. I got a little paranoid about those shims...just when I thought I had caster figured out.
     
  7. edstarnes

    edstarnes Farmall Cub

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    I will second that. I am happy to get some parts at Napa and bring them home.
     
  8. Randy Groenhof

    Randy Groenhof Binder Driver

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    Thanks for the compliments guys. The paint is drying on the steering linkage tonight So I'll have some pictures of that installed tomorrow.
     
  9. Randy Groenhof

    Randy Groenhof Binder Driver

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    Update time.

    Because the front axle had the older style spindle nuts and retainer we scored the newer style off ebay to make servicing more user friendly. Here is the old six prong style.
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    here is the new style There are better sockets available for these as well as a simpler retainer.
    [​IMG] with those in place the hubs came next. When Nathan and I tore the front axle down he had one of the hubs come out in a few to many pieces. I didn't think much of it at the time but when I went to reinstall it I found it to be trashed. The other hub was in good shape so I threw one of my matching spares on the other side.
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    We then tightened down all the steering linkage and greased the tie rod ends and king pins.
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    We then began tinkering with shock mounting. shock hoops seemed to be the coolest idea so here they are.
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    When we get the rear suspension done we will be ordering rancho 9000's for all four corners.
    And one last loose end. The other day I made an access hole for the t-case shifters with a hole saw. I made an aluminum cover for it then welded huts to the tunnel for easy removal.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. SSIIbuild

    SSIIbuild Binder Driver

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    Yeah. The new toys are on their way. :clap::D:banana::bananrap:
     
  11. jhnyct

    jhnyct High Wheeler

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    What would that be Mr. Jamie or is it a suprise?:shifty::whistling:
     
  12. SSIIbuild

    SSIIbuild Binder Driver

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    Well you know what it is. It is the pakage you guys sent to TX. It is finally done and on it's way back. Yeah...
    They called and said they should be there thursday.
     
  13. Randy Groenhof

    Randy Groenhof Binder Driver

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    Time for a much over due update. When Jamie's super secret surprise package arrived from Texas we mounted the steering box and installed the borgson steering shaft.
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    West Texas taps the hydro assist ports off the back side of the box. We had a little trouble getting the lines for the ram to clear the engine mounts because of this. We picked up a couple fittings from the local hydro shop and fixed that issue. We will install the rest of the steering system once the rear suspension and axle have been completed.
    With that step done we moved on to the rear axle. After finding that the 14 bolt had an open diff Jamie decided he wanted to go with an Eaton rear axle instead of throwing more cash at the 14 bolt. He scored a 4.57 with factory Detroit in N.C. that Nathan picked up for us. Upon inspection we decided the bearings and gears had seen better days. We made a Junk yard run and picked up a very nice 4.57 open third member and diff cover for $60 bucks.
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    Now it was on to combining the Eaton parts.
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    Out with the old open side and spider gears.
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    and in with the old Detroit (they are actually called a "no-spin" in this application). Just because comparison pics are fun. How about a Eaton ring gear with a dana 44 ring gear.
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    I'll post up the rest of the progress this evening
     
  14. gmbarker78

    gmbarker78 Farmall Cub

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    All I have to say is that is one nasty rig!
     
  15. jhnyct

    jhnyct High Wheeler

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    Just what until we get a chance to use it.:gunsmilie:

    I am personally looking forward to the day we get to tune the carb on this stout 392.:punk:
     
  16. SSIIbuild

    SSIIbuild Binder Driver

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    Yeah. Oh so happy to hear that at least it was a detroit or no slip eaton as I wasn't posotive I'd get burned again. Looking good as usual.

    Made my day again. Thanks :rockon:
     
  17. Randy Groenhof

    Randy Groenhof Binder Driver

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    More update. We removed the old rear suspension and axle. The "traction bar" is still for sale, I can't believe we have not had a single offer yet.
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    After that we removed the fuel tank.
    Next, the rear frame cross member and last ~12'' of frame had been ..................let's say customized. It looks like it started out as a good plan but really made for a bad platform to build the rear suspension around. With a little head scratching we decided the best way to undo was with a saws all.
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    Well that was easy. We will be splicing in another frame section next. Once that is completed we will be installing some 63'' chevy rear springs. we also need to decide what the best plan is for fixing the the body mounts/crossmember at the rear of the tub. The current fix is far from sexy.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Randy Groenhof

    Randy Groenhof Binder Driver

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    Well the starts aligned today. The weather was awesome, I had an open schedule and very few interruptions. That has been a rare combination lately so I made the best of it. I started by removing the old rear body mount/cross member. It was very rotten on each end and I saw no easy way to salvage it.
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    with it removed I threw it on the bench and started making my own version of it.
    I used 2x4x1/8 square tube for the starting point. I had to tapper the ends to clear the end cap tailgate hinge area and also the center for the fuel tank. Here it is drawn out prior to cutting.
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    A few cut off disk and some welding later here is the end result
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    Once it was completed I cleaned up the under side of the tub where it was to be installed then put it in place. I used bolts through the body mount holes and a c clamp to get everything in position the welded it in. once it was attached with a few good welds and several bad welds I shot some paint on it. here is the finished product.
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  19. Randy Groenhof

    Randy Groenhof Binder Driver

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    With that in place it was time to start in on adding the rear frame section back in. I had already done some prep work on the new section going back in. I removed the shackle hangers and welded in gussets near the body mounts on the cross member. That area tends to bend down with time and any body lift.
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    Since it was easy to get inside the frame rail I wanted to Set ourselves up for the future rear bumper. I cut and drilled some 3/16 plate and welded a 5/8 nut onto it.
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    After drilling the 1/2'' holes closest to the end of the frame to 5/8'' I fished the plate inside the frame rail and ran a bolt through the frame into the plate.
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    Then I welded the plate in place
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    We will be using these and the factory sleeved holes going through the top and bottom of the frame to mount the rear bumper later. (If your familiar with how a factory step bumper mounts that made sense to you) With that out of the way I used those sleeved holes to align the old frame section with the new one. I cut two sections of pipe that fit tightly and slid them through both frames.
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    Doing this allowed me to match the cuts in both pieces exactly and also keep the new section square during it's install. Once I was confident in the cuts being the same I put the whole thing under the scout.
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    I tacked everything in place and checked that everything was where it should be. I left it tacked for the night and tomorrow I'll recheck before finish welding. I'll also be plating over the side welds on both sides of the frame rails for a total of 4 plates. I also played around with the stock shackle hangers I removed. I made a little jig so I could mount them in the drill press. Then I ran a hole saw through them going around the shackle bushing and outer sleeve. That made it possible to side a D.O.M. sleeve and 2.5 inch wide poly bushing into it. IT should make for a clean stock looking shackle hanger for the 2.5'' wide chevy rear springs
    [​IMG]
     
  20. jhnyct

    jhnyct High Wheeler

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    **Borat on**

    Verry nies.

    **Borat off**
     

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