SSII conversion, what order?

Discussion in 'SSII' started by KnowtheCrow, Nov 10, 2003.


  1. KnowtheCrow

    KnowtheCrow Farmall Cub

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    Hi, I'm new to this specific board, I have been posting to the tech talk forum about general SII questions and have really enjoyed the help and being part of this great group.
    My question is, I'm doing an SSII conversion on a '74 SII and I was wondering if I could get some insight into what order to do things, such as should the soft-top go on before the inserts? I have the complete kit ordered, everything's here but the top, it will be here in a couple weeks.
    Any and all help is greatly appreciated, this is my third Scout. The day before I bought my first one 15 years ago, a '76 SII, I went to a sale and just missed an SSII, I've wanted one every since. So when I actually found a decent Scout way down here in the Big Bend of Texas, and found out that there were conversion kits available, I jumped in head first. I live extremely remote and have to depend on the internet for parts supplies and most impotantly information. Thanks, Corey :)
     
  2. Hooper

    Hooper Y-Block King

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    Hmm, I suppose the first thing to do is remove the top.. ;)

    Remove Top
    Remove Hard Doors
    Install inner insert
    Install outer insert
    Install hinge and latch catch hardware
    Install door skins on door frames
    Install door latch on frame

    I think the bed rails on the SSII and SII are a little different. At least, it seems like they are to me, but I could be wrong...

    Install the hard top hardware, then drop the top on. Easy as pie.
     
  3. KnowtheCrow

    KnowtheCrow Farmall Cub

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    Order of conversion install.

    Hooper, Thanks for the quick reply, I have the hard-top and doors off, I just didn't know if I would be adjusting the soft-top to the doors or the doors to the top or inserts or the other way around, thats what I meant by what order so that I'd have room for tweaking to get the best fit for all these components.
    Also at one time I stumbled across some info from you for putting some 2x6 inside of the inserts for added strength, could you point me towards that info? Thanks, Corey :)
     
  4. Baradium

    Baradium Lives in an IH Dealership

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    You probobly have to tweak a little bit of everything to get it to fit. I'd personally put the inserts on, then the top and then the doors... what are you more likely to do, have the doors on with the top off of the doors off with the top on? Of course, I don't actually have a SSII either.

    Hooper, I don't think there is a single difference... if there is it's just the hardware for the soft top, remember scout II's were availible soft top with hard doors too... I've also seen a SSII in a junkyard up close and it looked the same to me...
     
  5. pweeks3

    pweeks3 High Wheeler

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    Here's my comment on the doors...
    SSII doors do not fit that great right out of the box. Hooper's got a good point about the inserts. They should go on first. Then the soft top rails. There is a little bit of a step up as the rail sits on top of the outer insert. I put some foam adhesive tape under the rails and it seems to be fine. Then put the top hardware and soft top on. I would suggest that before you put the door hinge and latch hardware on, (again , with the soft TOP ON ), have someone hold the door in position on the vehicle WHERE YOU WANT IT TO BE. Then, mark where you want to drill the holes for the hinge and latch hardware. This will save you a LOT of tweaking and bending time.
    Paul Weeks
    '77 SSII
     
  6. KnowtheCrow

    KnowtheCrow Farmall Cub

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    SSII door inserts door seam fit.

    Hey, everyone, thanks for the run down, helps me to visualize the process a little better. Question: In dry fitting the outside inserts, I noticed that the front seam that will be rivetted into the door seam could use some shaving and shaping to bring it flush into that edge, should I be shooting for a clean match from the insert to that inset door seam? It seems that would be the place to start, but I don't know if even on the originals that it was tight there. I have image capabilities, and will post a couple of images to help clarify. Again thanks alot, Corey:)
     
  7. KnowtheCrow

    KnowtheCrow Farmall Cub

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    Conversion insert, fitting w/ images.

    Hi, everybody, Here is a couple of images from my project. referring to my last post. My main question involves the image called, outsidefront. I know I need to do some shaping but I'm wondering if this front seam should be tight in the door channel or should I leave any space for body twisting which could cause a binding problem? you can see that it is tight at the top and bottom but has a gap through the middle, I ain't skeered of cutting and shaping, just hoping for some input from your voices of experience.
    The second image: insideback, is it common to cut a large notch out of the inside back of the insert to fit the "step"?
    I'm going to get everything trimmed and dry fitted and then have the inserts sprayed with Rhinoliner.
    Also I've heard about using rivets on the outside and screws on the inside, any advice as to size and spacing of the rivets or screws and what type would be great.
    Thanks for any input and if possible any images would be really appreciated.
    Adios, Corey
     

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  8. KnowtheCrow

    KnowtheCrow Farmall Cub

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    Insert picture front.

    Hi, I think only the back image was posted, my more important front image will be posted here. sorry and Thanks, Corey
     

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  9. Baradium

    Baradium Lives in an IH Dealership

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    It's hard to visualize, especially since I can't go out and look at any SSII and see how they look, but I *think* that the insert needs to come forward a bit, like maybe it should overlap that door channel a bit?
     
  10. KnowtheCrow

    KnowtheCrow Farmall Cub

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    Insert fit.

    Hey thanks for the reply, I have a couple more shots if it helps, let me know. It seems to me that the insert is suppossed to fit in the indentation, as I have moved it forward as far as I can on the top outside and it falls right in there.
    All I really need is a detailed image, close-up, of the front outside seam and the back inside seam. In fact her's a detail of the bottom front outside.
    Thanks, Corey
     

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  11. Baradium

    Baradium Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I can't tell from the pictures I have immediately availible... hopefully hooper will chime in with a digi pic...
     
  12. pweeks3

    pweeks3 High Wheeler

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    Corey,
    I'll dig up some pics of mine and send them to ya!
    Paul Weeks
    '77 SSII
     
  13. Hooper

    Hooper Y-Block King

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    Digi Pics

    Sorry. Don't have the digi camera with me right now. Let me go eyeball mine and see if I can figure out what you are asking...
     
  14. Hooper

    Hooper Y-Block King

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    Digi Pics

    OK. Here are some pics. My inserts end right at the step. No notching or cutting required on the back of the inner insert.

    On the front one, there is already a notch to go around the windshield frame. I butted that up tight. The insert was also notched to go around the bed rail.... so, it just sat in there, without really much in the way of alignment.

    The idea behind the wood (I would use plastic now) is I bolted the wood to the hard door hinges. The insert came flush with the face of that pc of wood. I could then run my hinge lag bolts into that wood. That took all the door stress off the inserts and transferred it to the more substantial wood and door hinge.

    Under the step, I placed a 2x6. Can't remember how it is bolted in though. With the fiberglass inserts, you really do not need it. They are strong enough without. But, the old Lexan inserts were too brittle.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hope this helps...

    I really wouldn't worry too much about door channels, etc. Just but the front up against the windshield frame, and let the rear run wild.

    DK why your inserts need to be notched for the step though. Maybe they made them longer inside or something??
     
  15. Baradium

    Baradium Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Re: Digi Pics

    Are his as far forward as your's are? It's hard to tell without being able to see more of his insert...
     
  16. Hooper

    Hooper Y-Block King

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    Re: Re: Digi Pics

    Yup. Kind of hard to tell if he has his far enough forward.

    Anyone else ever needed to notch the back of their inserts to get them to fit?
     
  17. Mike Moore

    Mike Moore Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Look at the pic. His need to go forward a couple inches. It doesn't even overlap the chrome side trim. That should need to be removed, and the whole thing slid forward. He is trying to lay the front edge in behind the fender, where the SII steel door edge would be.

    Crow, if you look at a SSII soft door, the front edge should go up out of your fiberglass insert, and go right up along the windshield frame. You need to come forward a couple inches.

    Somebody with a SSII (I used to have one) post a side view pic to show this for him!

    EDIT...you can kinda see it in Hooper's first pic. See how the opening for the soft door rolls smooth into the windshield frame? That's how it should be. Take the trim off the fender, and slide the insert forward. Viola, there you go.:)
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2003
  18. Hooper

    Hooper Y-Block King

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    Side Shots

    OK.

    Here are a couple side shots

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Mike Moore

    Mike Moore Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    That oughtta do it. See what I mean in his pics? He's laying his outter insert in the "trench" where the steel door would start, rather than overlapping the fender. He'll get it after looking at your pics.
     
  20. Hooper

    Hooper Y-Block King

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    Insert Placement

    Yep, I see now. Trim has to go.

    Trim would look funny on an SSII conversion anyway... ;)

    Truth is, I have so seldom looked closely at that area on an SII, that I don't *really* know what it looks like along there without the inserts... ;)
     

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