Side sliding quarter panel windows restored - almost

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by jtorre4272, Oct 23, 2016.


  1. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    Well, 12 hours later, and the windows look presentable again. I used a couple toothbrushes and acetone to rejuvenate the rubber and felt liners, followed by 2 more rounds of toothbrush scrubbing with denatured alcohol. Then I cleaned all the extruded anodized aluminum with 0000 steel wool. 0000 works very well on glass too. It really cleaned up the patina from years in the desert in no time. My body shop recommended the steel wool as that is what the use to restore delicate items too. Works very well when trying to get shine back to old chrome too.

    One problem I had was the felt liners for the sliding portion. They just got brittle with age and a couple spots have pieces missing. It's not a big deal to glue in new felt liner, but on closer inspection it looks like these windows aren't serviceable. It looks like front he factory that they bent the aluminum strip around the window and screwed both ends together with a steel strip.

    Any advice on how to repair? Maybe I am missing something. Was thinking maybe I could remove screws for steel piece and kind of pry apart the aluminum just enough to slide glass out.
    image1.JPG
    Joe
     
  2. 3GunFlyer

    3GunFlyer Farmall Cub

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    Nice. I've got that to worry about as well.

    Do yours have latches/locks that keep the from being opened from the outside?
     
  3. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    Yes all the sliding windows should have the latches. I replaced the screws and buttons using parts from the hardware store. Ace hardware sells the same stuff vendors offer. Made by hillman. Except I countersunk the aluminum for larger hole but kept countersunk design to retain factory look. People use the buttonhead mating screws that come with them but they look terrible.
     
  4. 3GunFlyer

    3GunFlyer Farmall Cub

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    Thanks. Mine don't seem to have latches. There's just a four-inch piece of angle aluminum mounted via the bolts to the inside that acts as handle. They can easily be slid open from the outside.
     
  5. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    Sounds like a non factory customer mod. Yours should look like this.
     

    Attached Files:

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  6. JordanAMC

    JordanAMC Binder Driver

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    I thought they were serviceable but I may be mistaken. When I had mine ready to install I seem to remember screws beneath the weatherstripping for the entire unit that retained the slider... At least that's what the guys working with me said they were for. Best to allow someone else to chime in and confirm!

    Good luck... The Windows look great!
     
  7. 3GunFlyer

    3GunFlyer Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for the image. Mine don't look even remotely like that.

    Another thing I'll have to add to the ever-growing list.
     
  8. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    I always see them at nationals. Plus Coonrod would surely have them. He'd charge $5 each. Everyone else would try to get $20 each
     
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  9. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    Jordan, I'm going to remove the screws and see where I'm at. Perhaps you're right. I think I can get the felt through Eastwood.
     
  10. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I actually had to knock my driver-side latch out a few years back. I'd locked myself out of my Scout and was in a hurry to get back into it. The dome-head plastic "nuts" facing to the outside were disintegrating anyway. I chiseled the heads off with a screwdriver or something, then just pushed in on what was left, and the latch fell to the floor.

    To fix it for a while, I used some of that super-strong 2-sided tape, the kind used to hold cars' exterior trim in place. That actually worked really well for a while. But after a couple of years the latch started to un-peel a little and eventually fell off on its own. So now I'm back to figuring out how to screw it back on again cleanly.
     
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  11. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Joe, could you fill in a little more detail on the hardware you used to re-attach the latches? I'm kind of curious about that.

    For anyone else who's interested, here is what the latches look like up close. It's obviously pieces of aluminum extrusion, cut to length. And you can kinda see the steel spring piece. In the last image it's got that two-sided tape I used.

    Latch_exerior.jpg Latch_interior_2.jpg Latch_interior_1.jpg
     
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  12. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    Several of the Lightline vendors sell sliding window screw kits, but they aren't anything special. They are generic hillman button kits you can get at just about any hardware store selling Hillman products.

    They are sold as a kit where you get a plastic sleeve and cap, a screw and a receiving "rivet". You can get white or black. One male screw fastens to the other female screw, sandwiching the glass in between. When you are done tightening them down, you just snap the cap over the plastic sleeve like my earlier picture showed.

    The problem with the kit is that it uses surface mounted panhead slotted screws which look terrible. Thats because the screws come in the kit in the drawer at the hardware store. I opted for new countersunk screws. I think I went up to #6. They need to be a short length so I might have ground them down to like 5/16" or so. Originals were #4 I believe. So I had to use my countersink to slightly enlarge the hole on the extruded aluminum when upping to #6. besides, I think #4 was too small anyway when you consider fatigue life.

    The set of 4 costs like $2-$3 at the Ace hardware store near my house. got The screws a few feet away in another bin


    186-original_1024x1024.jpg
     
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  13. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    Further searches do suggest unscrewing the extruded aluminum frame is the way to remove the glass. I did so and the frame requires some muscle to pry apart. Worried I will do more harm than good. Has anyone successfully done this task? Looking for advice before I begin...

    Also, fyi, the material you can buy for this is sold as "mohair channel liner" at rock auto. You need about 10.5 feet to do both windows. It sells for about $2.50/ft. Cheapest around. Other places try to charge like 3 times this amount. Figures.

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/body,weatherstrip,channel+liner,1000304

    Its the same stuff I used to replace the door window track channel liners. You spray fabric adhesive on the back, let it tack, then sandwich it in. I used some paint sticks to wedge it tight while it cured.
     
  14. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Thanks! I'll look for them. I've got an Ace Hardware Store right nearby.
     
  15. Mark Pietz

    Mark Pietz High Wheeler

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    Years ago I had a side window shot out. Not knowing that complete assemblies were around for cheap, I had a glass shop replace the shattered glass (the big part - not the slider). They took the whole window out, took it apart, made a template, cut a replacement sheet, and put it back in. I'm not saying I'd do it myself, but it can be done. Ignorance was bliss, I suppose.
     
  16. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    Update:

    Managed to take window apart. It was easier than I thought. Just needed a little more force as rubber was stuck to aluminum after all these years. You undo the screws holding extruded frame together and then remove vertical rod. That's screwed in on top and bottom. Glad I took both windows out. Boy was there a lot of grime in there. I was able to clean the rubber gasket for the big window too. it fits around the pane like a u channel. I decided to take all the extruded pieces to the plating shop to have them re anodized. Will give me an opportunity to use cerium oxide to polish out the glass. Getting the hardened gasket material out of the window track was difficult. It was almost baked on. I had to use my very narrow chisel to clean it all out. I hope my mohair channel track felt is thick enough to make a good seal . When I'm done the windows should look and function like new.

    I'll probably have 40 hours into them by the time I'm finished

    Joe
     
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  17. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    For the latches - I just used stainless screws, fiber washers, and stainless cap nuts sourced from the hardware store.
     
  18. JordanAMC

    JordanAMC Binder Driver

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    J, glad you got it figured out. Be sure to update us as your process continues. Looking forward to the final product!
     
  19. jtorre4272

    jtorre4272 High Wheeler

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    Based on lack of feedback from others it doesn't appear that many have taken on or have an interest in properly restoring the sliding windows. I've managed to source new felt pile for the vertical bar and also new u channel material intended for sliding windows. Should have everything restored by next month. I'll share photos of the assy process and links to the material vendors. Stuff wasn't easy to find.

    I just can't restore everything else and ignore the windows. It's like a sundae with out the visual effect of a cherry on top. It isn't cheap to do this level of detail but i'm blessed with the flexibility of free labor and enough funds to keep my project moving forward.

    Joe
     
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  20. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Hi Joe,
    I am really excited to see how things turn out. My sliding windows are trashed, and I look forward to seeing how yours turn out, and what you used. My build won't be to the level as yours, but I'd really like for my passengers to have the option to crack the window if they need!
     

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