Self Sabotage 1970 800A

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Wombat, Aug 4, 2018.


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  1. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    Here is the old vs. new bushings. Reminds me of the way I feel before and after a good weekend. 482C76B7-BEAB-4A44-8214-B77F12F304FC.jpeg

    I didn’t expect the change in ride to be so dramatic! It’s still loud but my teeth no longer feel like they are going to rattle out of my head. Also, my doors are no longer aligned but I’m happy to know the body is sitting the way it should. I want to pull the doors and rust protect the inside and redo the windows anyway. I guess that can move up the to-do list.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2018
  2. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    After a full day of wrenching I got it buttoned up just in time for the weather to turn nice and a monster swell to roll into the East Coast. So my scout made her first visit to the beach and we surfed our faces off! Happy Surfgiving
    ED9C2D09-F0A5-4B2E-984A-1FE1F01D873A.jpeg
     
  3. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    I have working head lights!

    I experienced one of those moments of complete joy for solving the problem coupled with deep shame for being so stupid for not seeing the solution earlier.

    After braking lots of things while trying to fix them throughout my life I have developed a rule for myself: If something requires brute strength there is a chance you are doing it wrong. Stop and think.

    With regards to the headlights: I fussed with the switch, sanded terminals, checked wires, reviewed the wiring diagram, all with no luck. The sun goes down early this time of year and I have been stuck driving in the dark on two occasions, so I needed a solution. I was going to install a temporary jumper to provide headlights while I set the switch aside to be diagnosed over the weekend.

    Because I believed the switch was shot anyway I allowed myself to be a little rough with it. I would like to state at this point that nowhere in any documentation that I reviewed does it explicitly say that you needed to pull the knob out to turn on the lights! That was it, that was the big mystery. All I needed to do was pull the knob instead of turn the knob. I know I tried this a few times but it was especially crusty and required one hell of a pull to get it unstuck the first time. If I had just known how the switch was supposed to operate I would have had working lights months ago!

    I feel like an idiot.
     
  4. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Well my friend, welcome to the IH club. I've felt that way many times and I'm sure that will be the case, for me, for years to come! For example, the first time (some 28 years ago) I tried removing the DS rims only to discover left-hand lug nuts.... At least you fest up - I would probably blame congress.

    Now, if your horn does not work, remember that one needs to scratch one's armpit whilst burping. If these operations are not done simultaneously, your horn will never work. Now, this operation is explicitly stated! :tt2:
     
  5. Kenneth Barber

    Kenneth Barber Farmall Cub

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    How long ago did you order the bushings? BCB website says sold out for the last 2 or 3 months.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  6. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    I ordered them in August. After a month I called thinking maybe my order didn’t go through. The dude working there was super nice, he apologized for the delay but explained to me the bushings are custom and they were either trying a new manufacturer and/or a new material (I can’t remember exactly) and didn’t have any in stock. Seemed like they were in some kind of transition with this product so maybe they are only ordering small batches to work out any kinks. If the website doesn’t let you order them go ahead and give them a call, they might let you purchase them on back order or something.
     
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  7. Kenneth Barber

    Kenneth Barber Farmall Cub

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    Will give a call this week...thanks.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  8. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    I still have a lag when accelerating and a minor but constant backfire/popping. I also have an exhaust leak and because the intake and exhaust manifolds share the same gasket on the inline 6 I suspect I have an intake leak as well.

    I’ve removed the intake and exhaust manifolds and found the gasket to be pretty chewed up. The intake looks pretty good but the exhaust manifold is cracked in 5 places, some of which a PO filled with JB weld. It’s more than I want to weld, one of the cracks runs across a sealing surface.
    A2010447-3BF4-47F3-9E13-4A81DC94DCDA.jpeg
    They are both black from the exhaust leak.
    E3E665A3-2808-4F11-8963-0C657AF15AFD.jpeg
    See the JB weld, there was more on the other side.
    CF2D9F55-3A73-47F4-8156-897C198BFDBD.jpeg
    Multiple cracks along the face.

    So I’m looking for a 70’s era exhaust manifold, if you know where I can find one cheap, let me know. While I’m here I’m curious if there is a better solution for replacing it with a later model or aftermarket manifold/headers.

    Either way the truck isn’t running until I get replacement parts. :(
     
  9. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Not a great way to start out the new year. I'm sure someone like Jerry who had, originally I believe, a 6 popper, will chime in. Or others. Doubt your issue is insurmountable.
     
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  10. 72soa

    72soa Binder Driver

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    Those engines are a dime a dozen. Just finding one in this day and age could take a little work. I would start at the local junk yard. So many trucks, jeeps and cars from the 60's to the 70's had those 6 cyl motors. Just look for old AMCs. I would also look at C-list and other classifieds.
     
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  11. winchested

    winchested High Wheeler

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    They can be had just over $100 brand new by diff manufactures.
     
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  12. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    I was up at Coonrods this afternoon and I inquired about a manifold. Turns out they very recently sold the only one they had to someone in Miami. I hope that was to you? They did tell me that they have a complete engine with all the ancillaries but they don't want to part that out.
     
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  13. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    Wow! thanks for looking out. No, I'm not the one who purchased it but I have found someone here on BP who has an exhaust manifold I'm going to buy. I've heard about Coonrods but never spoken with the guy. I should give him a call sometime. I'm curious to learn what he knows about the i6 scouts.

    Thanks again!
     
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  14. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Phil has dismantled and sold Scout and Scout II parts for decades (I've been going there for almost 30 years) so I'm sure he knows quite a bit. However, I know when he worked at IH, he only worked on the Scout II. But he is one hell of a nice guy and loves to speak anything Scout!
     
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  15. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    Ok, I haven’t posted any progress in a while so let’s do a bit of catching up:

    Ordered a new exhaust manifold. Two months later the manufacturer finally confessed they were out of stock and wouldn’t get anymore for another 6 months. Found another and verified they had it in hand (what a waste of time).

    Painted both the intake and exhaust manifolds blue because I plan to paint the engine AMC blue if I ever pull it to rebuild it.

    Installed everything and now my exhaust leak is gone!

    The new one has a tapered interface to the exhaust pipe where the original was flat (see photo). As a result, the exhaust donut didn’t really fit so I left it off and sealed it using copper Permatex. Has anyone run into this issue? Is there an exhaust seal that provides a better fit for this tapered interface?

    IMG_0139.jpg
     
  16. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    After replacing the exhaust, the fuel pump, fuel filter, all the vacuum hoses, PCV, spark plugs, wires, ignition vacuum advance, and sealing all the leaks in the carburetor, I was still experiencing hesitation on acceleration in the low RPM range. I brought my truck into a shop to have them check the compression on the cylinders and do a general inspection to ensure I wasn’t wasting money by throwing parts at this engine. They told me the old AMC was leaking oil (I know, I F#*$ing know, it bothers me but I've decided to ignore it for now) but otherwise solid and the issue was likely the carburetor.

    So, I pulled the carburetor and sent it to a shop to rebuild. They quoted me one price and when it returned, they charged me another because it was a more complex rebuild than they had initially anticipated. I'm sad about this because the price of repair after the up-charge was almost equal to the price of a brand new modern carb with improved adjustability, flow, and seals.

    So, the rebuilt carb came back looking super clean and I excitedly installed it on the engine. Fired it up to discover the hesitation issue has not improved at all. I tuned the carb a bit and reduced the problem but it still persists.

    I was thinking about it and believe this might be related to the larger displacement of the motor than initially designed. Because the truck has the 258 crank but the carb was designed for a 232 I think it is demanding more fuel than the carb can provide so the next thing I will try is installing a larger jet in the carb. Wish me luck.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2019
  17. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    At some point my hazard switch failed in on the on position. Besides being uncourteous to other drivers it threatened to drain my battery if I didn’t disconnect it. Below is an image of the inside of the switch, it’s a simple mechanism and the issue was just a case of corroded terminals. Considering the cost of replacing this switch I was relieved the issue could be resolved with a bit of sand paper and dielectric grease.
    IMG_0758.jpg

    Fun fact: Under the aluminum faceplate on the horn button is an IH logo molded into the plastic in case you lose your aluminum faceplate. There was no reason for this but it’s classy, I tip my hat to you IH.
    IMG_0746.jpg
    IMG_0860.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2019
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  18. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    While I had the steering wheel off I decided to fill the cracks and rebuild the ridge under the horn button. I used a solo cup as a mold for the ridge and filled the edges with epoxy. After sanding it and painting it with some black enamel it looks pretty good. (I’ll post pictures of the re-assembled steering later).
    IMG_0759.jpg
     
  19. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    That being said, I’ve been driving it every chance I get (whenever all the critical parts are bolted to the vehicle). It still puts a huge smile on my face and I’ve broken 1000 miles!
    IMG_0363.jpg

    Achievement.JPG
     
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  20. Wombat

    Wombat Farmall Cub

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    We are now up to date on scout progress.

    The next required upgrade is the brakes and steering linkage. As I’ve mentioned before the steering linkage is a homemade hodgepodge of bent metal and welded t-bar which scares the hell out of me. I have been unwilling to drive the truck as much as I would like as a result so it’s time to fix it.

    I’ve sent the dana 44 axels to the shop to be sand blasted and painted (found a place that will do it for $60 per axel so I couldn’t justify spending hours in the garage with a wire wheel).

    I’ve also been talking with a baller little 4X4 customs shop in Melbourne FL who are going to help me with a custom 1-ton steering linkage. Pretty excited.
     
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