Scout 800B Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier Build

Discussion in 'Hill Country Binders - Central TX' started by HillRaiser, May 24, 2009.


  1. HillRaiser

    HillRaiser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2007
    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Hutto, TX
    I said I'd put together a thread on the build of my bumper and spare tire carrier...just didn't know it'd take me this long to get around to doing it.

    I purchased 3/16th wall 2"x4" box steel for the main bumper and bumper mounts. I purchased 3/16th wall 2"x2" box steel for the spare tire carrier and swing-arm. I bought a chunk of 3/16th plate steel to be used to cap the ends of the bumper and to make the bumper mounting plates. I got a small chunk of 2.5"x2.5" box steel to be used for hi-lift jack notches. I also got a short chunk of 1/4" thick 3"x3" angle iron and grade 8 bolts to tie it to the truck and to be used as lug bolts on the carrier. I picked up the latch pin at Harbor Freight and purchased a gate hinge with roller bearings rated at 1500lbs online from Guardian Gate Hardware (model #2000).

    My Scout 800B has a hitch welded to the frame rails below the existing bumper. As a result, I did not bother to try to integrate a hitch into my bumper design. It is also why I put the spare tire carrier swing arm on the face of the bumper instead of on top of the bumper.

    The first step was to find a way to mount the bumper to the truck where it would be sturdy enough to hold up the bumper, carrier, wheel & spare and also be capable of being used as a jack point. I decided to sandwich the rear cross-member between a chunk of 3/16" plate steel and the 1/4" angle iron. The first picture shows these pieces cut, drilled, and ready to go.

    The next step, after determining the width of the bumper, was to cut the angles on the ends. Could not cut that angle in the band saw, so used a hand-held Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw instead. Worked great! The end-result can be seen in the second picture.

    *NOTE* This is a friend's garage and his tools...I (sadly) do not own all these cool metal working tools...yet.

    I wanted to put notches in the underside of the bumper to have a place to securely place a hi-lift jack. I took a piece of 2.5" box steel and cut it in half (seen in the 3rd picture). I then used the band-saw to cut 4 straight cuts into the underside of the bumper to form the sides of the "U" where notch would be. To cut out the bottom of the "U", I drilled holes through the bumper and then used a jigsaw with a bi-metal blade (as seen in the 4th picture). I then welded it in and used an angle grinder and a flap-disc grinder to clean up the weld to leave nice hi-lift jack notches in the bottom of the bumper (see the 5th picture).

    To be continued...
     

    Attached Files:

  2. HillRaiser

    HillRaiser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2007
    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Hutto, TX
    Next step was to use plate steel to cap off the ends of the bumper. Once welded on, used the grinders to take it down so that it looked like one solid chunk of steel. The attached three pictures show the bumper ends and a test fit of what it was going to look like on the truck.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. HillRaiser

    HillRaiser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2007
    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Hutto, TX
    With the main bumper done, I turned my attention to the spare tire carrier swing arm. After deciding the right length for the swing-arm based on the size of the spare and good mount points on the bumper for the hinge and latch, I welded the outer hinge to the end of a piece of 2"x2" box (first picture).

    I then measured and squared things a jillion times and finally welded the gate hinge to the face of the bumper (second picture).

    With that done, I cut two short pieces of 2"x4" box to be used as the bumper mount arms. The idea was to weld these to the back of the bumper and then to the mounting plates (produced in step 1) (see third picture). The mounting plate is then bolted to the rear cross-member. On the back side, I welded the 1/4" angle iron to the frame rail and then bolted the bumper to it with grade 8 bolts. (see the last three pictures).

    Nearly done...
     

    Attached Files:

  4. HillRaiser

    HillRaiser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2007
    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Hutto, TX
    Next step was to make the plate that would hold the spare wheel/tire. I built it out of 3/16" plate steel with grade 8 bolts for the lug studs. I drilled through the plate, tapped the bolts in the holes, and welded them in place (1st pic).

    I then bolted that to the wheel and started there building the spare tire carrier portion to attach to the swing arm. While probably not necessary, I added gussets and heavy welds to the spare tire carrier (2nd & 3rd pic).

    I had to cap the 2x2 on the back of the top piece of the carrier as well as the end of the swing arm. Cut a few small pieces of plate, welded in place, and used the grinder to clean it up. I then bolted the swing arm carrier to the truck via the hinge and marked for the latch pin receiver and holes. I made the latch pin receiver out of 2.5" box steel cut in half and run over a grinding wheel to round the corners, etc. Got everything drilled and welded up (last pic).
     

    Attached Files:

  5. HillRaiser

    HillRaiser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2007
    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Hutto, TX
    Last step was to pull it all back off the truck, prime it, paint it, let it dry good, and remount it. The first two pictures are of the final product. The third is a picture of it in action. :rockon:

    I cut a small chunk of a heavy rubber mat (about 1/4" thick) in the shape of the bottom of the latch receiver. The swing arm sits on it and then the pin goes through. This keeps the swing arm from rattling. I've driven it on and off the road and it has held up fine with no rattles or anything.

    And that my friends is how I built myself a new rear bumper! :yes:

    Now time to get the front bumper designed and built...stay tuned!
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Rhees

    Rhees Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2005
    Messages:
    348
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Tulsa, OK
    Very nice work!:rockon:

    Rhees
     
  7. stu simpson

    stu simpson High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2004
    Messages:
    1,953
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    portsmouth, nh
    Is there any provision for limiting the travel of the arm (i.e. flopping all the way open) or a catch mechanism for holding it open if you are slightly off camber and need to access the bed?
     
  8. HillRaiser

    HillRaiser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2007
    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Hutto, TX
    Nope. I was going to weld a limiter on it, but when I swing it fully away from the back of the truck, the tire bumps the corner of the end-cap...which makes a nice soft stopping point. I put enough resistance on the hinge (by tightening the bolt down on the center sleeve), that it does not swing wildly free - it has a little resistance - so, without the tire, it pretty much stays where you put it.

    With regards to going the other way, I experienced that the other day. I just held it back while I lowered the tail gate and then let it rest against the side of the tailgate. Didn't do any damage to either part, so I think that will work for the most part.
     
  9. orangeblood

    orangeblood Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    May 5, 2003
    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Spicewood, TX
    Nice work Jimmy. Wanna build me a front bumper?:D
     
  10. Fred Demmon

    Fred Demmon Y-Block King

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Messages:
    3,636
    Likes Received:
    45
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Pearland TX
    Thanks for the write up.

    You did a real nice job.

    So when is the front one happening?:D
     
  11. HillRaiser

    HillRaiser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2007
    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Hutto, TX
    Well, it was on the plans as the next thing, but last night when I stepped on my brakes, brake fluid started dripping into the floor board - leaking around the push-rod. So, looks like the front bumper will take a back seat to new brakes. :hammer:
     
  12. kingkonger708

    kingkonger708 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2010
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Bay Area, CA
    What was the final width of your bumper? I can't decide whether to make my rear bumper flush with the outside of my body, have it extend a touch, or have hit a touch inside... My old one was about an inch shorter than my body width better to prevent snags, but maybe flush or an inch outside would offer some more protection.
     
  13. 800bman

    800bman High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2010
    Messages:
    1,643
    Likes Received:
    121
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Elgin IL
    Awesome!
    I'd love to see more pics of this scout today if you have them.
     
  14. HillRaiser

    HillRaiser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2007
    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Hutto, TX
    Sorry I did not see your message sooner. Probably too late, but the final width on my 800B rear bumper was 63 1/4 inches.
     

Share This Page