Scout 80 body mount bolt/bushing access

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by scout-ED, Jan 6, 2006.

  1. scout-ED

    scout-ED Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2005
    Messages:
    332
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Elkin, NC
    Hello All,

    I've been reading throught the body mount bushing replacement thread and have a question not answered directly there...
    I have a 1963 Scout 80 and the PO replaced the floor pans and bed (good!). My question is am I going to have to cut through the floor pans and bed to get to the bolts to remove them (bad!)?
    New to binders and never had to replace something like this...also once I do get the old bolts out do I need to jack the body off the frame to insert the new bushings most are currently flat or not there...(maybe stupid question but I don't know...) any help would be appreciated!

    Ernie
     
  2. Lava

    Lava High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2004
    Messages:
    1,643
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    Coastal Ca
    ? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you mean when you say the floor pan has been replaced, but you have no access to the body mounting bolts.
    How is the body mount being used at all if you cant see the bolts from the bottom and the top?
    The body mounting bolts sit in about the center of the floor pans. The ones at the rear of the bed have two hidden behind plastic plugs in the inside of the endcaps.
    9 body mounting bushings all together.
    more info needed
     
  3. BRADLEY NORTON

    BRADLEY NORTON Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2005
    Messages:
    66
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    DENVER COLORADO
    If the bolts are bad and bushings bad replaceing would be ideal. if you welded the floor pans over the bolts than yes you will have to cut the floor to get the bolt head out. you also want to loosen all body mounts ( 1 -under the nose 2- in the cab 2- next to the gas tanks 4- on the tail) then jack up the front of the body replaceing those first start at the nose and work your way back . the front is much lighter than the rear. but if the cab bolts are not covered than loosen and remove the oem bolts have square holders so the bolt does not spin. fair easy job I went with a 1.5" body lift on my 62 80. as far as new bushing i went to a rubber supplier to get mine, buy a sheet of rubber what ever thickness you want and make your own this also is far easy.

    happy wrenching.

    Bradley
     
  4. rlireland

    rlireland Content Team Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2003
    Messages:
    4,358
    Likes Received:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Ernie,

    The body mount bolts should be accessible from underneath. The heads are visible from above on the floor pans and rear bed. Ronnie has a thread over on Just IH! that documents how he is replacing his 800 body mounts. There are lots of photos that show clearly the location of the mounts.
    Here's the link to that thread: http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/showthread.php?t=5123

    Roy
     
  5. scout-ED

    scout-ED Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2005
    Messages:
    332
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Elkin, NC
    Thanks for the replies guys!

    Yeah, my floor boards/pans and bed have been completely replaced and I see no bolt heads on the floor or bed...but I'm probably confused, not to hard to do recently :) I'll need to check out my situation in detail from under the truck (I'm planning to replace all the fluids this weekend). Once I get a good hard look I'll know better what I'm dealing with...sorry for the newbie q's. I'll get more info based on all of your comments and get back to y'all.

    Thanks again!
     
  6. BRADLEY NORTON

    BRADLEY NORTON Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2005
    Messages:
    66
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    DENVER COLORADO
    Beware the rust might have welded the nuts to the bolts.like mine.You should be able to just cut a small hole about 2.5" x 2.5" in the new metal and then be able to hammer the bolts up. The body mount in the front is already welded to the crossmember under the radiator so that one just loosen the nut and your in. good luck
     
  7. rlireland

    rlireland Content Team Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2003
    Messages:
    4,358
    Likes Received:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Sounds like a PO has welded in new floor/bed sheet metal on top of the original and covered up the mounting bolts. Gonna make it a lot harder to remove the nuts from the body mounting bolts in order to jack up the body and slip in new bushings. You could try to remove the body mount bolts from underneath using lots of P'Blaster (or other penetrant) and elbow grease. If you are able to get them all off this way, you can replace the bushings and nuts but you would be using the original bolts, whose condition is unknown.
    In order to get the original body bolts out, it sounds like you'll have to cut some access holes in the new floor/bed sheet metal. This will require some precise measuring from above to locate the position of the bolts. Even then, the condition of the original floor (which has now been covered) where the bolts attach will be unknown. If the original floor and/or body mount brackets are rotted, putting in new bushings is not going to help for very long.
    Get underneath and do some scraping and probing on the floor bed sheet metal to see what you're dealing with. Then, you'll have to decide if all the effort needed to replace the body bushings is worth what you want to do with your rig.

    Roy
     
  8. Gary Billings

    Gary Billings Dreams of Cub Cadets

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2002
    Messages:
    4,151
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Conifer, CO

    First thing I thought of was a small hole saw, maybe about 1" in diameter, and drill a hole right above the bolt head.

    You'll be able to get at the bolt heads with a socket & extension that way.

    It would be small enough to then use a fender washer on top of it and bolt it all down that way. You could even tack weld the fender washer to the floor if you were concerned about excessive movement.

    -Gary
     
  9. scout-ED

    scout-ED Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2005
    Messages:
    332
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Elkin, NC
    Roy, I suspect that I'm in the situation that you mentioned (welded new floors right over old) but I'll have to double check this weekend...

    Bradley/Gary, I like the idea of drilling/cutting the holes in the floor above the bolts then using tack welded fender washers to take up the space, just a bit concerned with getting the measurements right...Oh well, I need some drain holes in the new floor boards anyway :) Looks like I'll be investing in a welder as well. Any recommendations on an inexpensive but decent welder?

    BTW, in the short time I've owned my Scout, I've found this board to be an INVALUABLE resource!!!

    Thanks for all your help, I'll let you know what I find this weekend...
     
  10. BRADLEY NORTON

    BRADLEY NORTON Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2005
    Messages:
    66
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    DENVER COLORADO
    Depends on how think of steel you are willing to weld. Motor mounts and frame addon's etc. not cheep. But as far as small metal like body work and small projects lincoln gas less wire feed welder from Home deopt is good and fair cheep about 250.00 or Craftsman from Sears is not bad and still cheep and works good also gasless and wire is cheep about 10.00 for a pound. Mine works good.When i started my restor i had to brake down and buy one also now welding is alot of fun. the last time i welded was in high school so when I started i welded up some small projects before i started welding on the scout to get some skill. this project is a whole lot of fun and i still have not driven it yet but one day.

    brad
     
  11. rlireland

    rlireland Content Team Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2003
    Messages:
    4,358
    Likes Received:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    There are as many opinions on this subject as there are Scout owners! Do a search on "welders" and start a new thread or add to an existing one if you have more questions.

    Would you consider becoming a Supporting Member ($20)?

    Roy
     
  12. scout-ED

    scout-ED Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2005
    Messages:
    332
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Elkin, NC
    Ok, got under the rig today and took a look...then went to the inside and looked at the floor pans and bed. PO definitely welded the new floors over the old, so no topend access to the bolt heads right now!

    Looks like after I get done with a complete brake job and new "returned-to-stock" exhaust, its on to measurring and cutting 1" holes above the bolt heads so I can get access to replace the bushings...Not planning to make this truck a trail rig, just a fun sometime daily driver and light (fire road) trails so I guess the bushings can wait a bit.

    Thanks for all your help and advice! And yes, I'm planning on becoming a Supporting member soon but just used up my weekly "Scout-allowance" on fluid replacements :)
     

Share This Page