Sam's Scout II build

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Tremor, Nov 10, 2020.


  1. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Hey everyone, thought about it for a while and decided im going to post my build, though I am already knee-deep in it (In rust more specifically). To start out and give the quick backstory, this is a 1978 manual scout II with the 345 in green with a spray-painted black hardtop that I won in a bidding eBay war for about 3,500 earlier last year. This did seem like a good deal at the time because it was no running but unfortunately it was worse than expected. When it finally arrived it was bad, the door latch was completely shot and would not close, the PO had screwed wiring so bad there was no turnover, signals or lights. Luckily after an Alternator, oil, oil filter, plugs, cap, rotor, plug wires, and pumping the old gas out and new gas in she fired up. After firing up though 3 things happened, the rear left brake line began spewing fluid, the power steering pump was screaming and leaking fluid and the gas pedal was cracked up towards the pivot which the PO was using a bungee cord strapped to the pedal, and the lip of the top to try to make it useable all of which I replaced. Fast forward awhile after some other minor maintenance, I decided to move to the bodywork for the brutal Wisconsin winter. I was hopeful before pulling the full cab floormat because the truck was coming from California but it sure didn't live there its whole life.

    The entire inner and outer rocker, floor pan, kick panel, mount, and wedge were all rust stricken and some genius riveted a few pieces of steel over them in an attempt to keep it together instead of fixing which the PO lied about "replacing" :whip:

    IMG_6671.jpg





    After cutting out the spot welds and removing the patches I got to see what was left of the front end which wasn't much.
    IMG_6733.jpg



    I popped out the spot welds of the floor then cut and removed most of the floor (sadly cut partially through the middle support) and cut off most of the rocker and detached them from the supports, only need to get to the portion behind the rear quarter and the front section.

    IMG_6789.jpg


    Pulled both front fenders to see what's what removed what was left of the wedge and mount which I still need to cut from the other side it seems. I only have an angle grinder for cutting but it seems like a Sawzall might be a good investment for some of these angles and sadly my compressor is not big enough for a die cutter that I planned on using. My end goal is the white and red Rallye scheme wheel included with a 2 and a half-inch lift and a primarily black interior, the current interior is the tan scheme. Hoping to get most of it done by early summer but who knows where it will take me.

    And that's where I am up to as of today, I will continue to update as frequently as I can. Thanks everyone and tips, tricks, suggestions, and questions are always welcome

    Sam
     
    winchested likes this.
  2. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    2,719
    Likes Received:
    2,171
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    Looks like a lot of work ahead of you....I also noticed the lack of x braces in the doors..anytime you start cutting rockers and floorplans out , it needs to be x braced....in such a way so you can open and close the doors....hopefully you can get it all lined back up.
     
    Tremor and Perdido like this.
  3. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    18
    yikes, that did not come to mind as an idea but definitely an important one I can see now. Hopefully can use measurements I took and those from the other side will help for the lineup for the most part.
     
  4. 77GlacierBlue

    77GlacierBlue Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Likes Received:
    80
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Southwest Missouri
    I agree that bracing is a good idea but all is not lost. You'll just have to spend a lot more time making sure everything lines up perfectly before you weld it back together. I have a nice sawzall but never used it for demo. Just too fast and dirty for me. I'm and idiot so I like to keep my cutting slow and precise. I don't have a decent compressor. I used an electric die grinder from harbor freight and an angle grinder for all my cutting. I actually had to buy 2 die grinders since the first once died but they were so cheap I'd do it again. Keep posting pics, we'll be watching.
     
    Tremor likes this.
  5. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    2,719
    Likes Received:
    2,171
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    It's not the end of the world if you dont x brace..but it makes life easier when putting it all together..
    I've seen people not x brace, and cut cabs all to pieces to replace rockers, floorplans, kick panels and such..weld it all up , and then cant figure out why their door gaps are horrible, or doors wont shut, or some other almost unfixable problem..
    Repop patch panels are usually far from a perfect replacement for a factory piece..therefore that leads to very poor fit if you just weld it on ...most repop stuff I've seen requires alot of work just to make it work..
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020
  6. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Alright, from what I can observe it seems I should go from wedge and mounts, kick panel and then finally rockers and floors and of course measure the lineup as I continue? my main fear right now is I install and weld mount and wedges and they mess up the alignment.
     
  7. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    2,719
    Likes Received:
    2,171
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    Just looking at what you've got, or dont have, I would hang the door back on to give you some kind of reference to go by....but its just like building a house...gotta do the foundation first and work your way up and out..
    If you havnt already , id get some new body mounts under the tub first..
     
    TorqueMonster1 and Tremor like this.
  8. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Alrighty, quite a long day but got some good progress done. Got almost all my demo done today, with the help of the trusty Sawzall got most of the mount out, or at least enough where I was able to remove the infected part of the kick panel. I decided because of the mounting of the kick panel I am much better off just removing the lower 1/4th portion than trying to use the entire patch. However, I did notice when cutting on my floor line which is about an inch and a half of the seam that the mount is welded with tabs onto the frame, while removal is an option it seems like it might be a better idea to trim the tabs off my patch then stitch it at that connection (I'm open to suggestions), I would also like to note that the cab mount does seem a bit too short to completely remove at the floor seem, though I'm not sure if this is by design or not. After that, I started to cut the back quarter to get access to the rocker and so much Bondo powder came out it looked like winter came early:laugh:. About 8 inches of the entire quarter were only Bondo and the PO at some point had packed plastic bags inside to give the illusion it was fixed. After this took the wire wheel to the 50 years' worth of gunk on the frame and supports. Hopefully, next I will be doing some more precision cuts/ cleaning up the ones I made, do what I can with patching the pillar, then welding in my kick panel, wedge and mount (are specific angels needed for mounting with this or that more for rocker and floors?)

    IMG_6884.jpg

    IMG_6894 (2).jpg
    IMG_6897.jpg
     
    Jeff W, 77GlacierBlue and Darrel like this.
  9. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Forgot to snap pics today but I will update with pictures tomorrow, cut the kick pannel more precisely and clamped on and began to weld, as far as I can tell these panels are 18 gauge but I may be mistaken. Tried to run 0.25 to start and it definitely was not working for me so switched to 0.35, running a simple Lincoln 120 with 75/25 shielding gas but this still will make it tricky with the extremely awkward angle, lots of welding and regrinding will definitely be involved and hopefully won't burn through the pannel. Definitely having issues with wedge and mount alignment, specifically the mount being much to short and to skinny to fit how it should, going to probably fab in a piece in between, probably won't be pretty but at least no one will see it.
     
  10. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    2,719
    Likes Received:
    2,171
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    Any place you can get to the backside of where your welding and can use a copper backer..itll help to prevent the burn thru...
     
    Tremor likes this.
  11. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Hey all, sorry for no recent updates just got caught up in the holiday stuff and work. Anyways, great progress has been made so far. Inner rockers were put in and welded from the rear first so I have room to move the front around for proper alignment. I fixed the inner support that got cut during floor removal and re-welded and attached. And the moment of truth, I put in the outer rocker for a test fitting and bolted in the door and it fits like a glove luckily. next is going to be the metal treatment which I am a little lost on, I heard really great things and really really bad things about por-15 but I am going to look into other options. I'm also not sure on the rocker gap from the bottom of the door because I assume there should be an amount of " wiggle room" but I'm not too sure. It also seems anyway I were to do it the front cab mount will be way too short and too skinny so I will be doing some patching and try to add onto it. As always any thoughts or tips are welcome and thanks as always, Very grateful for this forum's resources the more and more I get into this project.:yes:
    3CE84079-D7C2-4F10-A2F9-DBCDD354F087.JPG
     
    TorqueMonster1, Perdido and MrKenmore like this.
  12. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Dreams of Cub Cadets

    Joined:
    May 19, 2013
    Messages:
    4,220
    Likes Received:
    1,807
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Looking much better!
     
    Tremor likes this.
  13. Kohler

    Kohler Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2018
    Messages:
    337
    Likes Received:
    436
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Fredericton, NB
    I've used POR-15 on a few things to try it out. I've had it bond extremely well and I've had it peel off in sheets. Your best bet is to remove all the rust you possibly can and use an epoxy primer or a single stage DTM paint. The cab mount patch panel isn't full width or length IIRC. I think it's meant to be overlapped and welded, but it can be butt welded if you cut out exactly the right amount of metal. This is going to be your best resource for body work on a Scout II: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/1977-scout-ii-body-rebuild.139946/page-4
     
    Tremor likes this.
  14. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2017
    Messages:
    2,719
    Likes Received:
    2,171
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Alabama
    I agree dont use anything but epoxy on your new clean metal..
    Por15 is basically bridge paint..its made to stick to rust..which is what your trying to get rid of..it wont stick to clean shiny metal
     
    Tremor and Perdido like this.
  15. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Hey all, not much of a progress update as it seems there is quite a shortage of sheet metal recently and parts after a month they just got here, for the time being, have been starting on the surface rust removal of the rest of the interior. So far it seems very good as just some minor pitting and nothing major. I was able to finally take the top off for the first time, using what I can in a one-car garage it's suspended from the roof for now. After the rails and floor I will definitely be addressing the massive 3-foot dent in the right quarter, I got most of the spot welds out in preparation but I am still pretty cautious on cutting those inch and a half welds on the bottom of the B pillar. Removing the dent on the quarter should be possible but I'm slightly concerned about the end cap which is slightly dented in. Hope everyone is doing well and happy holidays!!

    IMG_7335.jpg
    IMG_7336.jpg
    IMG_7340.jpg
    Sam
     
    77GlacierBlue, Perdido and winchested like this.
  16. 77GlacierBlue

    77GlacierBlue Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2019
    Messages:
    135
    Likes Received:
    80
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Southwest Missouri
    You're right that it takes some time to get metal right now but those end caps are only $120. That's not the worst thing if you can't repair it.
     
    Tremor likes this.
  17. Tremor

    Tremor Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2020
    Messages:
    51
    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Alrighty, luckily a solid amount of progress to report over the holiday break. All my parts came in and my cab mounts inner rocker, outer rocker, and floor are all welded in, unfortunately about halfway through welding with clamps down I realized I was running much too cold which caused none of the welds to hold which had to be reground and makes it look a whole lot less clean. I replaced the body bushing and hardware with grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers on both sides. I then wire wheeled all the paint on the tub floor to bare metal and removed all surface rust. My current plan is to do a coat of self etch primer and then raptor line the tub floor once the weather gets warmer to prevent having to do this again as soon in the future, I took the advice from you all and double-coated all-new metal with epoxy primer. I also noticed rust bubbling and pinholes on the grill lip between the upper and lower valance which I removed, wire wheeled down and rust soaked which left enough solid metal to just fill the small pinholes with spot putty. I started on the removal of the extremely banged up passenger quarter panel and seriously underestimated the number of spot welds, Holy crap that was a lot!. I was searching the forum for photos on how to do it and couldn't find any of them where the image links weren't dead but from what I understood typically the endcaps are removed and put in together with the quarters which interestingly did not happen with mine due to the dent spot breaking the welds between the quarter and endcap and doing some serious damage to the joint where they meet as well. I also noticed how rusted the usual spot between cab and wheel well is which makes me consider a whole new quarter but the prices because of shipping are a bit too high. For now, I will work on rounding the pannel back out and pulling the windshield next as well as installing a new stainless brake kit after nailing the one behind the cab mount with the grinder. Then my plan is to start re-installing the pannels, putting down the liner, new firewall material, and the one-piece rubber floor cover. Sorry for the lack of quality pics but I promise more to be included next update.

    Thanks for reading and as always opinions and thoughts are welcome!
    Sam
    IMG_7813.jpg
    IMG_7811.jpg

    IMG_7812.jpg
    IMG_7785.jpg
     
    tim vaughan and Arkansas Dave like this.
  18. Arkansas Dave

    Arkansas Dave High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2004
    Messages:
    1,551
    Likes Received:
    166
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Pottsville, AR
    Nice project reminds me of the one I used to ride in as a kid it was the same color except and automatic glad to see your saving another cool ride.

    AD
     
    winchested and Tremor like this.

Share This Page