Rocker panel guards, Bolt or Weld to frame?

Discussion in 'North Texas Binders' started by Capydoo, Jan 22, 2015.


  1. Capydoo

    Capydoo Farmall Cub

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    Hey guys,
    I have was thinking about building some rocker panel guards out of scrap steel I have laying around here at the shop. I was thinking about just welding them to the frame. However, I thought it would be a good idea to get some input from you guys. What are the pros and cons of both etc...

    Thankx,
    Tommy:punk:
     
  2. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    For what it's worth, I will be bolting mine on. I think a lot of people weld theirs on, though.

    My plan is that the plate will be bolted up through the bottom of the frame rail with the brace being bolted to the top of the frame rail using the same bolt. I'll probably have 4 bolts on each side over the length of frame rail between the wheel wells.

    Again I'll be using plate to do mine. "Boat-siding" it (bending it upward from the bottom of the frame rails) should help reduce hang ups. Also being plate, there shouldn't be much for rocks, etc. to catch on.

    Brett
     
  3. Julian 537

    Julian 537 Binder Driver

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    I have some on my scout that have worked well. You are welcome to come and take a look at them. I am in NRH
     
  4. Kirk_tx

    Kirk_tx Farmall Cub

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    Whichever way you go, you really just need to solidly make contact with both walls of the frame rail in my opinion. In other words if you weld, hole saw through both side of the frame box, slide the tube through and weld up inner wall and outer wall.
    I would only bolt to the frame if you plan to sleeve the frame. Otherwise one good hit and it will just start pinching the walls together, heck just tightening the bolts would start pinching the frame, they won't get tight.
    I bolted mine to make them removable. Sleeved 12 bolt holes with tube. Worth all the effort. Probably not, just for removability sake. (Still a ton of welding). if I had to do it again with the body still on frame..... I'd weld em directly.
    And then if I wanted to remove them ever, just cut and sleeve to reattach. Or use machined tube attachments.
     
  5. Kirk_tx

    Kirk_tx Farmall Cub

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    Bretts design is interesting because it puts the attachment hardware in shear instead of tension and you wouldn't need to sleeve.
    I like it, but Brett how hard would it be to do with body on frame? Is your cab off the frame currently?
    Also does your body sit up off the frame? I don't have a body lift so I wouldn't have been able to fit a "brace" on top. Would have to get creative with brackets on the end of the tube.
     
  6. Capydoo

    Capydoo Farmall Cub

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    That's some good info. I hadn't thought about pinching the frame. I like the idea of cutting holes in the frame and sliding the pipe though it and welding up both sides. Sounds like the strongest way to go.
     
  7. Brett Whitaker

    Brett Whitaker Binder Driver

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    Plan is still to sleeve the vertical hole through the frame. Also will be welding nut on top brace for easier removal/installation. This is probably not a good design for a body on frame situation.

    Body will minimally set off frame. Body is on the frame, but my body is 4" shorter than normal all off the bottom edge. So I can see the frame from side.

    Brett
     

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