Rocker & Floor install pics

Discussion in 'Southwest Scouts of Oklahoma' started by Mike Scherr, Oct 20, 2007.


  1. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    I had grown tired of the rusted out rocker panels on my '75 Scout II. The body mounts were shot as well so you felt every bump in the seat of your pants and could see the body flex and pull when off road.

    After seeing Damien at D&C do this repair on his Evo build I decided to do close to the same thing. I think it took him 5 hours. It took me about 40-60 hours on the first side and about 20 on the second. I think with two people working you could knock this out in a weekend, depending on how bad the rust is.

    I think I spent about $100 at the steel yard. I bought a half sheet of 14ga sheet and had them cut it into two 18X48 and one 12X48 sheets. I also purchased 20' of 1X1 14ga square tube and 20' of 1.5X1.5 14ga square tube. For the rocker I purchased 12' of sched 40 2x4 box tube.

    Remember, lots of measuring and cutting and grinding went into this. I filled a five gallon shop vac with dirt and grinder dust many times. Also, Before you start hacking away with your favorite cutting impliment, your brake line runs down the inside of the driver side frame and your fuel line runs down the inside rocker of your passenger side.

    The cage was removed, I put a support between the door posts and cut the floor out:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 20, 2007
    Mater likes this.
  2. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    On the drivers side both of the center body mounts were rusted quite badly. I cut away the center rear body mount and replaced it with the 1.5" box tube. This made an excellant support for the 2x4 rocker in the rear. I also had to repair the inner attchment point for the front body mount.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    To do this job correctly the front quarters need to be removed. That way you can cut all of the rust away and have quality mounting points when you weld. I cut the ends of the 2x4 tube @ 45's and capped them, now they will work well for sliders as well as rockers. I clamped the tube between the front and rear doglegs and welded it in place. I also welded it to my new rear body mount and the body supports behind the front quarter panel. Then I added 1.5" floor supports between the origional center floor and my new 2x4 rocker where the origional supports were. I didn't get good pics of this, the D&C build has great pics of this part.

    For the front body mount and floor support I used 3 1"x1" square tubes welded together. I figured having the tube walls for support would be a good thing.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    I bent the sheet metal and welded it in place. Same thing for the passenger side. I used the Gary Billings reccomended PL roof flashing sealant on any places where metal meets metal on the bottom side. It has a 7 day cure time then is paintabel. Make sure you wear gloves. I finally got it out of my pores after a week. It is still under my nails after two. Then Paint.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    I repainted the cage and made the wife help reinstall. After 4 or 5 times we are quite good at it.

    Compare old to new. Later this year I am going to make repairs to the rear floor and body mounts, then it will recieve a spray in liner.

    This was a great chance to replace all of the body bushings. These repairs made for a much more smooth and quite ride. The body is as solid as a:tank:
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    I think it looks good.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. ktsno1

    ktsno1 Binder Driver

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2005
    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Chambersburg, Pa
    doin good. keep it up
     
  8. bbranch

    bbranch Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2003
    Messages:
    268
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Ponca City
    Pictures don't do enough justice to the nice job you did. Seeing them in person I think these will last forever. Once you liner the inside your very limited to mods that can be made later without messing up a good looking floor. Just look at mine. Wish I would have waited to do my floor. Great write up also....
     
  9. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    Thanks fellas,

    One thing for sure, it will be a while before I pick up the grinder again. I have never been so burnt out by a project. I see why so many people have unfinished vehicles sitting in the garage.

    Mike
     
  10. bbranch

    bbranch Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2003
    Messages:
    268
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Ponca City
    Or they take damn near 2 years to finish.
     
  11. chevywoody

    chevywoody Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2007
    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    niagara
    Good asrticle. I have a 75 Terra and I have to do pretty much the same work. I had planned on ordering the body mounts ect , but I see how nice the tube works. What also appeals o me is the body mounts are all triangular, kind of like gussets....the tube looks strong and simple...just make theproper angles!

    How was the fit of the door and the 2x4 for a rocker?

    I am restoring my 73 chevelle, and I am familiar with the burn out of replacing metal!

    This is my 1st scout and I am a bit perplexed about the 2 piece rocker panel....if the 2x4 tube sealed and worked well, I will employ it over a 2 piece of stamped stock.

    My plan, which no doubt will end up changing several times, involves lifting the body, liningt both doors up, then tacking a support, angle iron, to the inside of the cab to hold the "straight" body. I liked the support you puit in the door space...but I think I may need the door placement to line the body up correctly...

    any advice you can send is appreciated.
     
  12. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    C.W.,

    The simplicity and stregnth of the 2x4 replacement is what worked for me. No need to build rock rails or other protective devices under the rocker. Also, there are no more lips or body shelves for dirt to sit on. I would hate to put hours of labor into replacing the rockers just to have them rust away again in a few years.

    The only problem I have not figured out yet is how to finish the quarter panels. It shouldn't be too difficult, I just haven't put any effort into it yet. As far as doors, they should fit just fine. I have not re-installed them and have no reason to as long as I am living in OK. I think I could have guarenteed no body movement if I had re-installed the top before the job, but, I have no intention to put it back on either. I made a few measurements with my tape and the body appears strait. I thinks with the top on, doors lined up and angle iron welded inside, you should be fine.

    Let me know if you have any other questions or need better pictures.
     
  13. turbogreaser

    turbogreaser Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2007
    Messages:
    66
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Mike- this is sick stuff>
    What would it take to get the rough measurements for a cash strapped lad who has volunteers from his bar willing to donate welding skills and warm garages? You can identify pieces as detailed or generic as you like. If I could tell the steel place more exact measurements, less prep time for my crew. Any help at all would be hugely appreciated.
    Eric:beer:
     
  14. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    I have been asked a few times, the rough measurements:

    The main 2X4 rocker is 62.5 inches tip of 45 to tip of 45. You could add or remove 1/2 to 1 inch depending on what you want. The floor supports were all around 15" and the floor board sheets were 18" wide.

    If anyone is doing this job, good luck!

    Mike
     
  15. Michael G.

    Michael G. Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2006
    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    Denver
    Hey Mike. Great work! It's nice to see someone doing exactly what I had envisioned. I like how you integrated the the body mount instead of buying those sheet metal replacements.

    The only thing that I would do differently is to stick the rocker out a little. My thought is a little protection for the bottom of the door, especially to keep the lip from getting bent.

    I realize you're not putting the door back on. For that I would also install some square tube (1/2 or 3/4 inch) for the door to close against and perhapse some place to attach a door seal. Maybe some angle iron would work better so the upside down "U" of the seal would slide over it.

    All in all, great work. Thanks for posting the pics!

    Michael
     
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2008
  16. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    Thank you. I need to edit some spelling errors in that post. Ouch!

    By leaving the doglegs in place, the outer/upper edge where the door met the rocker remains the same and the front and rear verticle ribs for the seal remain as well. So, if you wanted to you could run a 3/8 piece of steel between the verticle ribs on the doglegs for your seal. I did not because I want water to drain easily when I wash it out. As far as the lower edge of the door, I think I would trim it so it did not hang below the rocker. Or just use 3x3 tube.

    As far as sticking the rocker out further, I have thought of building nurf bars using the rocker as a base.

    Thanks again,

    Mike
     
  17. Michael G.

    Michael G. Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2006
    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    Denver
    Hey Mike. I've been thinking a little bit about this picture. Is the 1" x 1" box sitting on the cab bushing at an angle so that the weight is mostly on one side or am I not comprehending the picture correctly? I ask because the pieces that they offer for the cab side are angled. Maybe I need to take a look under my scout, but mine are mostly gone. Thanks again.

    Michael
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2003
    Messages:
    499
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Colorado Springs, Co
    I don't know exactly what is going on with that picture. The supports and floor are at the same angle as the origional floor. The 1X3 (3X 1X1) sits on the body bushing square.
     
  19. Michael G.

    Michael G. Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2006
    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    Denver
    I apologize if I'm being a pest. The only reason that I ask is because the floor is manufactured at an angle. Here is a link to a picture of the replacement part. You can see that it is a tappered piece. So I'm wondering what is different about yours?

    Thanks,
    Michael
     
  20. jsbodine

    jsbodine Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2006
    Messages:
    60
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Moore, Okla
    You know Mike instead of having your wife lift that heavy stuff and doing it most of it by yourself I just live about 3 blocks from you. Speaking of you and the family need to come by this summer.
     

Share This Page