Rocker/floor/body mounts

Hammer test work haha.

Thanks for the complements. The welding is getting better not having big globs of molten metal pile up anymore. I practiced a lot trying to get the temp right was the hardest part along with my movement speed without my hand getting to hot.









Got nice weather today I’m putting in the floor panel.

Thinking about the future of my truck and I’m thinking I don’t want carpet anymore and just going to put bed liner over the whole truck inside and out.


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Small update.

Haven’t put the floor in yet waiting on some paint to show up first.

So I started on the driver side today. Which was way worse. Forgot to get the before and after pic mostly just after pics.






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Work on the driver side a little more today












So I got the floor joist in and also the body bushing in the front and also on the cab.

The biggest question I have is how do you drill this hole out?



I can’t drill from the top or the bottom. Anybody have good ideas besides taking it out haha.

I got my door finally straight and my door close awesome now.


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Might have to jack it up so you can remove the front leaf spring bolt to let it drop down enough to get a drill in there. I replaced mine from the hole outward so I never had to drill that hole.

 

Maybe jack the body enough to remove the mounts. Then make a measuring device with a 90 degree hook in it, like a bent coat hanger. Hook the bent wire into the mount hole and at 90 degrees to the frame mount measure the distace to the mount. Repeat this at several spots. Then transfer the measurements carefully vertically to the frame member you want to drill through and drill it out. The average locations you mark should provide a outline of the outer diameter of the hole. Couple of other ideas are to raise the frame enough to use a 90 degree drill. The aviation guys also use a rivet locator which is two steel straps one has a locating pin In it other side has a hole in it. They match up so when the pin goes on a lower hole the upper strap shows where to drill on the upper sheet metal panel. You’d have to fab a thicker version of this and make sure it was level (bullseye level). I would opt to carefully measurement myself. Good luck.

Don B

 

Thanks for the replies!

Another question:

End caps do I have to take off the quarter panel to weld the end cap on? Or is there a way to attach the end cap without taking the quarter panel off?


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You can your gun in there by reaching behind and/or going through the tail light lens hole. Or use panel bonding epoxy.

 

Nice thanks! I don’t have the luxury of a garage where I live so I my work is all dependent on the weather at the moment. And it seems like it rains everyday...


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I’m also going to paint my truck in raptor liner.


White on the body and black on the roof and inside. I have another white kit on its way.


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Got the floors in today







I just spot welded it in place for now I will go back an put more beads down.

Next is the seat mounts then paint.

So far this has been interesting.


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Floors look good,doors still shutting good.When I did floors one time I put out too far and the door hit the lip.

 

Hahah nice! Yea my door are shutting better than ever! Can’t believe it honestly


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Got my seat mounts in today plus more welding and grinding.

My seat mounts are never going to come out.






Next is sand the middle part of my cab and prime it then raptor liner then seat.

Waiting for a good stretch of good weather to raptor line the whole truck. Till then I will sand, patch, bondo and prime.


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Prep work 90% complete, just a few more detailed to do before I spray the raptor liner on.




Did some body work today also. With the new rocker panels in the rear quarter panel needs some patch work. Also worked on the wheel well area and put new metal in there. Along with some bondo.









I ran out of bondo before I could do anymore work. Most likely tomorrow or the next day I will spray some raptor on the beast.


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Wow. That is an incredible amount of rust repair in a short time. Especially without having access to a garage. Just curious as what what body bushings you used, and if you plan on installing a lip for the door seal along the floor.

 

Thanks, I check the weather constantly now Lol I have a lot of time right now since I’m not at work. But I’m sure that’s going to change here soon.

I used the bushings from ihpa

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/ENE-6-4101G.html

As far a door seal I will use it along the sides but prob not on the floor. I’m not using carpet anymore, an I’m going to put raptor liner down.

We’ll see what happens.

I have a good window for weather now.

Things to do:

- Take off end caps, put new ones on
- patch passenger front fender bottom
- finish bondo
- sand bondo
- clean and prime
- raptor liner


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Yeh, I think I'll order those as well from RockAuto. Just another quick question about the floor. From everything thing I have read/looked at this far, I still don't understand how the factory floors were joined along the center tunnel. Is there an offset lip that the floor pans rest on, or are they just butted up?

 

I don’t know. I just bought 4x8 sheet of sheet metal I think it was 16ga and cut to fit inside my truck.


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I believe the original floors had a bend going downward both on the transmission tunnel as well as the driver and passenger floors and was simply pinched together and spot welded. Most people when replacing the floors just leave a lip from the original floor at the trans tunnel and weld the new floor piece on top of it.

 

- Take off end caps, put new ones on (COMPLETE)
- patch passenger front fender bottom
- finish bondo
- sand bondo
- clean and prime
- raptor liner


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