Rocker/floor/body mounts

Well, since the beer virus has me telecommuting to work, think I have enough time to work on the ol scout.

I have 75 scout II 345.

So this is what she looks like:









The products I have:

- new bushings and bolts
- 20’ 1x1 tube
- 20’ 1.5x1x5 tube
- 2 sheets of 24”x48”
- 12’ of 3x3 tube
- 12’ of 4” flat stock








I have seen a lot of builds and some pretty awesome modifications to your scouts.

The things I’m going to take away and want to do are:







So the questions I have:

- any tips or tricks that you guys used to do this fix to your rocker?

- I’ve seen many post about using a plum to make sure the rockers are parallel, I have no idea what that means.


Wish me luck looks like tomorrow I start this project.


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I would brace up the door opening such that the door closes correctly to preserve distance between A Pillar and jamb. Same goes for locating body mounts; cross brace to keep factory spacing of tub, and you should be fine. Work on only one side at a time, keeping the other side for dimensional reference. How are the floors? Once rockers are in place and where they need to be, fix the floors.

I replaced inner & outer rockers, installed junk yard A Pillars, repaired fresh air plenum under cowl, and rebuild lower hinge mount & bottom of driver's door on my 67 PU. My bracing was not strong enough and had to do a little slice & dice to get everything where it needed to be. An 1/8th of an inch might as well be a mile.

 

Most important step imo is to get all your panels aligned and then weld in x-braces across the doors and the front and rear of the cargo area.
To check your rocker alignment drop a plumb bob to the floor from each corner and make a mark. Once you have all four ends measure side to side and diagonally.
That said, I'm sure if the rockers are actually parallel with each other from the factory.

 

A little update. I started fabricating the rockers. I measured it’s roughly 63” I measured a little long just incase I screwed up.





My welds are pretty crappy at the moment but I’m pretty sure that this won’t come apart.





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Looks stout man. Looks like those would work as rock sliders as well.

 

You welding with a mig? Are you using flux core or solid wire with shielding gas? I was much happier with my welds when I started using shielding gas.

 

I got a flux core. I don’t like very much but it does the job. I ordered a tig/stick welder yesterday. Hopefully it gets here soon. The shipping store gave me between April and June lol.


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Turn up your heat slightly, and slow down in your bead. Your moving too fast.

Flux works just fine. It just take a little bit to get it dialed in. The rockers are a good place to get lots of practice. Those look beefy, and will last longer than you or I.

 

I just started TIG welding. Picked up an Eastwood TIG 200 on Craigslist for cheap. The foot pedal was garbage so I bought Eastwoods upgraded pedal. Made a world of difference. Not sure why I waited so long to TIG it is so much nicer to weld with. No spatter to deal with. Takes some practice though for sure. Which welder did you go with St3ve?

 

I went with the primeweld tig225x 225 amp comes with the ck17 torch.

Saw it on eBay


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Got some good weather today while still waiting on supplies to tig weld so I decided to take apart my truck and it looks bad.....








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Hey, I have a pile of stuff, that looks similar to that, under my B120.

 

I’ve seen worse

 

You keep that rust though. Get a mortar and pestle and grind it into a powder. Then get some powdered aluminum from the paint store. You can start it with a sparkler. Not the cheezy ones, a real one. I bet a pile of shavings from a magnesium fire starter and a little coil of iron wire connected to some long leads and a lead acid battery could start it too. You have thermite. If you get enough, you can do things like cast your own anvil, or use smaller amounts to play around with thermite welding. They used to use it on railroad tracks. A similar version is used to fuse high power copper wires. Copper oxide, instead of iron oxide, plus aluminum powder burns to produce aluminum oxide slag and electrical grade copper. (But be aware it gets very very hot and will chew through many common materials so use precautions. Cool stuff though.

 

It sounds like a good time, but I think that it will just end up in the bottom of my scrap steel barrel.

 

Update:

Since today was a nice day and not in the 40s. Did some work to the beast:

Ripped the floor out and put new rocker panel in and the door is more reliable lol

Here’s some pic’s




Hi








If tomorrow is like today I’m going to put the floor panel and body mounts in.


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Did some work yesterday before it stormed.












Body mounts and floor joist done.

Next is flooring. Then I can start working on the other side.

So far I’m pretty impressed being an amateur, a lot of grinding and measuring.

The door fits better than it did before. I’ll post new photos when I get the flooring in.


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Looks like it’s coming along. I used similar steel for my front body mount. Makes it nice and stout.

 

Hit it with hammer and see if it cracks.

 

Looks dam good. The welding will get better as you go through the rebuild, you are either a good welder or a good grinder as they say. If you haven’t done so replace all the body mounts so the body sits level while you are working.

Don B