Quick and easy Scout II LED tail lights

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Mike Moore, Jan 18, 2011.


  1. Erik VanRenselaar

    Erik VanRenselaar Y-Block King

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    How has that LED conversion been working? I'm looking at converting my tail/stop lamps to LED, and this one looks better than any drop-in 1157 LED bulb in the stock Scout II metal housing.
     
  2. Mike Moore

    Mike Moore Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Still kickin' along perfectly. Have had no issues whatsoever.:)
     
  3. BO185

    BO185 Y-Block King

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    On the CC issue I know on my VW with LED tails, I simply add inline resisters and the CC works normally. They have them in kits at autozone. Little pricy as you can get them cheaper online but need them ASAP. But they have enough resistance for flasher and CC to work normally. And no need to have a reg bulb or relay.

    Also Superbrite LED has a plugin 1157 36 LED board its only $9 each. I thought about giving them a try on my travlette. But they are not real big through. Looking for a cheaper option.
     
  4. doublereflex

    doublereflex Farmall Cub

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    Not one problem since conversion.
     
  5. vz58

    vz58 Farmall Cub

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    I have searched online for the roadmaster led but cant find anywhere they are actually in stock. Suggestions?
    BTW excellent idea!
     
  6. Russ McLean

    Russ McLean High Wheeler

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    The Roadmaster units had 21 LEDs. It appears that Raneys Truck Parts no longer stock this part. They now stock a 24 LED part. I have no idea how bright it is.

    http://www.raneystruckparts.com/rectangular-s-t-t-red-led-light/
     
  7. Mike Moore

    Mike Moore Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Somebody HAD to ask, and bring it up...:taz:

    My right tail light took a poop this week. Need to source another light to take apart and redo it.
     
  8. bravemen

    bravemen Farmall Cub

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    I learned today that not all 5x3 rectangular lights are the same. I purchased some Buyers http://www.buyersproducts.com/Elect...angular-stop-turn-tail-light-15-led-red/5210/ lights, and the interior is completely set in resin. Since I had already ruined the light I tried to cut it down a little to see if I could get a fit, and cut through a trace. Since it's totally surrounded in resin, there's no telling what the circuit board looks like.

    Time to try another brand.
     
  9. air_brian

    air_brian Farmall Cub

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    I got my hopes up with this thread, but my '79 doesn't have the metal light tubs.
    Can anyone tell me which year they changed from metal to plastic?
    I have a decent set of uncracked plastic tail light housings that I'll be looking to trade.
    Thank you.
     
  10. R290

    R290 High Wheeler

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    I thought is it was 1980, but I guess is was 1979.
    I made some "homemade" led lights. I went over kill and bought some bright leds and put way to many in the light. When I step on the brake, I think I'm causing temporary blindness.:gun_bandana:
    I went back to 1157's until I can make some changes.:oops:
    I bought a set of metal tail light holders. With all the changes, there might be an 1157 led version that could be bought off ebay ?
     
  11. scorp1us

    scorp1us High Wheeler

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    I've been LEDding it up. The ebay ones are cheap and nice.

    I got red 1157s (brake, 60 led), white 1156s (reverse, 80 led) ba9s (interior) T10s(some everywhere) and 42/43mm lifts for the domes.

    The reverse lights are far brighter than the incandescents.
    I recommend going with the flat led worth yellow circles and not the clear dome led style lights. The marker lights just need to be flat, same for interior lights. The in-dash bottom lights (single wire) need to have one row of leds - not 2. 2 will be too tall to fit. I always get them colored to match the lens they are behind. It gives a richer color without wash out. I use multi element leds everywhere. It helps with the point-source nature and makes it more diffuse of a light source.

    If you ever need a resistor, 6w 50ohm is the spec to keep bulb-out indicators from going off. So that should help with any blinker issues (if you have them)
     
  12. Havoc Brand

    Havoc Brand Farmall Cub

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    any updates on what LED's to use now that the Roadmasters are no longer available???
     
  13. J Scout 2

    J Scout 2 Farmall Cub

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    When you change your bulbs out. Will you only need a Led Flasher? I swapped all my bulbs out and threw in a led flasher. My signals headlights and brakes work. But no dash or park lights or markers? Is there something I'm missing?

    Flasher I have:
    https://scoutparts.com/products/?view=product&product_id=19221
     
  14. BO185

    BO185 Y-Block King

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    I quit using the led flashers to many issues with them most are junk, and I just run resistors you can buy that simulate a normal blub and can use normal flasher. Most parts houses stock them now with coupe bucks each.
     
  15. DYelton

    DYelton Farmall Cub

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    Hi Mike,
    I am finally getting to the electrical phase of my build and wondering if you have a current recommended LED light for tail light conversion.

    Also it has been several years since my 75' SII has run and the OEM wiring has mostly been removed. Is the parking light, brake light and turn signal all powered from one light/socket in the rear? I have a pretty solid 12V background but have never rewired a turn signal system and am trying to think through what the wiring will look like to get all three functions from one bulb or let panel. Any info of link you may have would be much appreciated.

    Thanks!
     
  16. David Dixon

    David Dixon High Wheeler

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    I am going to be tackling lighting on mine about a week from now. Have been looking at just replacing the bulbs with LEDs that fit in the sockets, which are available for all the scouts lamps, or going the Mike Moore route for the tail/turn/stop lamps. Am planning to buy an assortment of the bulb type and try them out. Will update in a bit with results. The good news is that any way you choose, its a lot cheaper then it used to be to peg the ol' blingometer with LED glow.

    I am appreciating Mike's notes on cruise control, as I will have to deal with that as well.
     
  17. DYelton

    DYelton Farmall Cub

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    Hi David,

    The factory tail light appears to be just one dual filament bulb plus the back up light below it. Does the one bulb perform all three tasks of turn signal, brake light and tail light? I am assuming so but the lights on my rig have never worked so I wasn't sure. I am considering using an orange tint paint (sold on Amazon) to cover the clear back up light and use the back up light as a turn signal so i don't loose the break light when the signal is on. If I go that route I will install high output LED back up lights under the bumper which would be a lot more functional anyway.
     
  18. David Dixon

    David Dixon High Wheeler

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    Yes the dual filament bulb has a dim filament for tail light, a bright filament for brake, and IIRC the turn signal makes both blink.

    I have added a backup lamp to the tire carrier on the bumper of my diesel as well, but I suspect that making the original lights much brighter with LEDs will be enough. With LEDs you can get them in amber or red cheaper than white so the lense tint shouldn't matter. You could also pack separate LEDs into the 3" x 5" portion under the red lense.
     
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  19. Mattd

    Mattd Farmall Cub

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    I'll throw my 2 cents in here as I've completed a similar task and you can check out my thread if you're interested in details http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/led-tail-light-conversion.136534/
    It was a simple install that didn't take too long. To answer your questions about bulbs vs the board, the bulbs just didn't work for me. They weren't very bright and had issues sticking in the sockets even after the sockets were replaced. They also caused issues with the blink rate of the turn signals. When I went with the board, it had the built in resistors so the turn signals weren't a problem.
    Your other question about the wiring, there are two power wires and stock would ground through the housing. On the new board that I bought, it had 3 wires, running lights, brake lights and ground. I removed the original socket and ran my wires through the hole and connected the power wires and attached the ground to the body. So far over 2 years mine are bight and working like a champ. Hope this helps
     
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