Project Six9

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Havaclu, Apr 2, 2014.


  1. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Went through my mental check list, re-checked fliud levels, made sure things were tight etc. and went for a drive. WOW! big improvement in power, runs great, shifts smooth, floor it and it moves. At 80 mph she purrs along right @ 2500 RPM and 210 degrees. Couldn't be any happier with the results:beer:
     
  2. CAB

    CAB Farmall Cub

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    Looks great, and man, that was quick!

    CAB
     
  3. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    OK great to know!!
    Awesome!! :thumbs up: More pics!! :)
     
  4. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Here's a couple of pictures on the brake pedal relocation for throttle servo clearance. Before and after. I just cut about 3/4" off the spacer and placed on the other side of the pedal pivot. Worked out great, had to move the brake light switch over also. Just drill and tapped a new hole in the mounting bracket for that.
     

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  5. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Time for some skid plates. I started by making a template out of some 1/4" mdf. Then cut it out of some 3/16" hot roll sheet with the plasma. Then I cut some strips from 3" x 3/16" cold rolled bar to make some kick-ups for the front and back edges.
    I gotta say the inexpensive Eastwood Versa-Cut 40 Plasma cutter works great. Slices through 3/16" like butter.
    I drilled and tapped the frame rails for some 3/8-16 SS button head bolts for mounting. I also added a couple of center bolts through my transmission mount and anti-wrap cross bar.
     

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  6. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Painted and mounted!
     

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  7. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Fuel tank was also treated to some new armor.
     

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  8. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Front end all put back together. Added some new eye balls too. Should brighten up the road a bit.
     

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  9. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Mystery for the day....

    Left brake light is dimmer than the right :no:
    Left hazard is dimmer than the right:no:
    Left and right turn indicators are equal brightness - both bright:yes:
    Left and right tail lights are equal brightness - slightly dimmer than turn:yes:

    As far as I know brake, hazard and turns should all be bright (25 watt filament) and tail/park is dimmer (8 watt filament)

    I can disconnect bulk head connector and jump 12 volts back to each light and get the desired results which lead me to believe the bulbs are fine, and wiring front to back is fine along with light housing grounds.

    When I measure voltage at the left light socket without the bulb installed voltage is 13 plus while running, when the bulb is inserted voltage drops down to around 3

    Is it the hazard switch, turn signal switch?? Any ideas?
     
  10. EasyDoesIt

    EasyDoesIt Farmall Cub

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    You have an amazing scout and your attention to detail is amazing.

    Keep the updates coming.

    Have you checked your flasher relay, might be worth it swap a new one in. Maybe a weak ground?

    Good luck,
    Steve
     
  11. Quilmes

    Quilmes Farmall Cub

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    Jeff

    great work, thanks for taking the time yesterday to talk with me. I have many questions as this is the way I want to go on my next project with the engine and radiator. Just that I will be using a totally different suspension.

    Question, I see a link bar to the rear suspension, is that to keep it straight when driving or during flex?

    Talk soon

    Martin
     
  12. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for the compliments Steve!

    I did try a new flasher, unfortunately it wasn't that easy. After more testing and fiddling with stuff, I found that the contacts in the turn signal switch needed to be tweak to make better contact. So problem solved, 4 hours later.
     
  13. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Hi Martin, thanks for the call!!

    The link bar is part of the anti-wrap / traction bar, keeps the rear differential from rotating up under acceleration.
     
  14. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    So after the fact....taking the time to smooth and paint the OE intake probable wasn't a good idea. I think too much structural integrity was sacrificed by getting rid of the ribs on top and having to plug six holes over an inch in diameter. It looks like it wants to collapse on itself under the vacuum, flexes pretty good. Could be catastrophic:no:
    I looked around for some options and came across the Dorman 615-183. It appears to have longer runners and is more open on the inside, so it should flow better, and it looks better from the start. So back to square one, of course my fuel rail won't just mount up, have to make new mounts and plug some of the extra air ports. Instead of having to use nylon or ABS to fill the holes, I just tapped them and stuck a nice button head bolt in them with some thread sealant. Looks like I can get rid of the extras on top without effecting strength since they appear to be mounting bosses, then back to sanding and paint. Stay tuned..
     

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  15. Quilmes

    Quilmes Farmall Cub

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    sad to hear, because it look nominal. the smooth air intake makes it look like a hot rod engine intake.

     
  16. Quilmes

    Quilmes Farmall Cub

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    Thanks, I was not sure why it was there, thought it was to help keep you running down the road straight.

    Thanks again
    Martin
     
  17. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    New hardware for the Scout installed.
     

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  18. kvp

    kvp Farmall Cub

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    love the plate. love the build. any pics of the final engine bay after intake swap?
     
  19. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    Thanks KVP.

    In AZ we are in prime 4x4 season, so I have been reluctant to pull the intake off for paint. It is on my short list of things to do. Here are a couple of pics with it installed. Its a little dirty though. The Scout runs great and is a blast to drive on and off road.
     

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  20. Havaclu

    Havaclu Farmall Cub

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    I took some time to recondition the door window frames and all the internals. Replaced the inner felt and outer sweep along with front and rear guide tracks. The window regulators were de-grimmed and treated to some black spray paint along with some fresh grease. I removed all the glass from the frames and bead blasted what paint was still there, then had them powder coated satin black. I think they look better black instead of the silver color. Got the windows to roll up and down nice and smooth now.
     

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