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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by tahoedonner, May 31, 2014.
Tahoedonner 05-21-2011 12:35 AM
I am going to start transferring my build over to this site as well. It'll take me awhile. This thread started about 2 1/2 years ago and I'm not even close to finishing yet. Keep in mind that a lot of the questions I've asked in this thread are pretty old by now.
I bought a 72 Scout 2 when I was a Sophmore in High School in 1998. It was my favorite thing on earth but was slightly neglected because I was so young. Brought that Scout to College with me and still kept it for 5 years after while I was getting my feet wet in the working world. 3 years ago I was, not forced, to sell said Scout to the tow truck driver for $500 because that was the 4th time in 6 years it had been towed. Total bill for all 4 tows was about $4000. I have regreted it ever since. Today, however, everything has come full circle. I scored the deal of the century through a friend, of a friend, of a friend, of a friend, of a friend. Got myself a pretty solid '79 for $500. At this time I only have 1 picture. Here she is. I look forward to conversing with all of you in the future as I am, and have always been, a Scout nut. More details on the tear down and build up to follow over the next 2 to 5 years.
Here is my original '72 from High School circa '95 Yes I took my girlfriend to prom in a Scout.
Finally got the beast towed home from Placerville. It's a little more beat up then I had previously thought. But still worth the $500. Especially since it has a clean title. Oil in the 345 looks good. I will be changing out the plugs and wires this weekend in hopes that I can fire this thing up and see how it runs. Hasn't been started in 5 years says the PO. Wiring in the engine bay looks a little shotty.
Haven't updated in awhile so here it goes:
Changed the oil and all was well but did notice that the radiator was bone dry. Not worried though because it sat for so long. Followed the instructions on Maybens old iron doc and had both rockers oiling well. Buttoned her all back up and put some water in the radiator. Uh oh, tons of water coming out underneath. Never even occured to me to check the freeze plugs. Easy fix though because the one behind the starter was completely missing. Much easier to replace when you don't have to pull it out. So more water into the radiator. Damn, more water coming out. This time from the drivers side. Not so lucky here though. Two rusted out freeze plugs on this side. To get to the front one I needed to remove the oil filter. Here is where things go wrong. As I am loosening the filter I notice some water coming out of the filter. Hmmm, that's interesting. I decide that I would loosen the drain plug before pulling the filter to see if there is also water in the oil pan. You bet there is and lots of it. Well, there goes my plans of getting this thing running and playing with the suspension first. Probably for the better though. I've since pulled off all the engine accesories and found a ton of rust all throughout the cooling system. I've added a couple pics of what I found under the surface.
Tahoedonner 01-18-2012 09:24 AM
Re: Project Karma
Update on the old beat up engine that was leaking water into the pan. Pulled the valley pan and found a huge crack in the block. Time to find a new block.
Finished sanding and grinding down the frame and coated it with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint and primer. Really like how it turned out. Won't know how tough the paint is till I get this thing on the street but it is supposed to be very durable. This is 2 coats of primer and 3 top coats.
Picked up a Skyjacker 4" lift and installed it. Pretty straight forward installation. Also bought some heavy duty spring plates and u-bolts from IH Only and coated them with the chassis paint as well. Scout is pretty level now. I didn't re-use my passenger side spring spacers, front or rear, because pre-lift it was leaning drastically to the passenger side. Once I drop the engine in and let it settle I will see if any other leveling/ tweaking will be needed. Also installed a 2" body lift from IH Only. Haven't figured out what I will be doing with shocks yet so I left the stock towers un painted. I'm going to be installing a reverse shackle in the next couple months, from IH Only, and am not totally convinced that I want to keep the stock shock towers. Nor do I know if they will even work with the reverse shackle.
These pics, although crappy, show the current height with 4" spring lift and 2" body lift. No heavy duty shackles yet.
The rest of the pics are just random suspension shots after installation of the skyjacker springs.
So with the engine still in limbo I have decided to refresh the front D44 with new ball joints, U Joints, wheel bearings, spindle bearings and seals, new locking hubs, powder coated calipers, and some dimpled and slotted disc brakes.
With Jeff's advice I am just going to clean the rust off the shafts and seal it all back up.
Here are some photos of what I found during the breakdown:
Got the new u joints and ball joints installed. Also cleaned up and painted the knuckles and axle housing with the Eastwood Chassis Black paint. Next step is to get the wheel bearings, calipers, rotors, spindles, and new locking hubs installed. Here are a couple pics of what has been completed so far.
Ball Joints and painted knuckles:
Freshly sanded and painted axle housing:
New Ujoints and cleaned up axle shafts:
Got the spindles all cleaned up and bearings installed.
Wheel hubs are getting powder coated so couldn't finish the job today. Here's what the old wheel bearings looked like. Top one is from the drivers (long shaft) side. Grease is solid black.
So I'm still waiting for my hubs and some other stuff from the powder coater so I decided to start prepping the engine bay and parts for the new engine going in next week. Sanded and painted the firewall and inner fenders with some Eastwood Underhood Black paint that is meant to replicate OEM sheen. Since I've never seen a clean scout in person I will take their word for it. I also coated the wheel wells with some rubberized coating for some texture and then painted over that to seal out any water and or dirt that tends to get trapped. Turned out pretty nice.
Drivers Inner Fender
Passenger Inner Fender
Also started prepping a bunch of the bolt on engine parts in preparation for the "crate" engine that I've purchased.
Prestolite Distributor w/ old cap for masking. This is coated with some VHT aluminum paint and a gray engine enamel primer. I am highly impressed with the quality of this paint.
Also coated the timing cover and valley pan in some gloss black engine enamel that will match the engine and intake manifold.
Took the powder coater 5 weeks to coat my hubs and numerous engine parts. Initially I was livid until he said that there was no charge.
Got the spindles, hubs, wheel bearings, new disc brakes and calipers installed today. Only thing left to button up the front axle is to get some extended brake lines installed.
Should be able to drop the engine in tomorrow.
Here's the intake manifold in gloss black. Looks brand new.
Here are some shots of the new brakes, calipers and Warn hubs installed.
Got the new engine dropped in on Sunday. Engine is a remanufactured 345 long block with a Comp RV cam that has been balanced. Sealed it all up with new Fel Pro gaskets, installed the flywheel and sealed the bolts, rebuilt the oil pump to spec, and picked up all new grade 8 hardware for the install. Dropped it in by myself with the help of some guide bolts which was an idea I picked up in someones thread on this forum. Sent the valve covers off to get chromed. No issues this time bolting up the torque converter. Dropped the engine on some of the IH Only RPT motor mounts. Can't say enough about the quality of these. Absolutley spot on. Here's some pics of the process and new engine partially put together.
Action photos my wife took without me knowing. Not sure how I didn't notice the flash in the background.
Here's some reandom shots of the engine.
RPT Motor Mounts
Only had a couple hours worth of daylight after work today but was still able to button up a couple things. I had the powder coater blast my exhaust manifolds after I had them trued at a machine shop. I mentioned to him that I was going to coat them with some VHT exhaust manifold paint. He recommended using a propane torch to "cook" out all the water. It was amazing to see how much water was trapped in the metal. I was also amazed to see how fast they started to rust after being blasted.
In this picture you can see where the water is being cooked out.
Here's what they looked like after removing all the moisture.
And after removing all the surface rust.
Final paint count was 3 coats VHT flat black and 3 coats VHT clear. Included pic of the heat stove as well.
I was also able to get the new Holley 80457s carb installed. I chose this model after reading glowing reviews by Mayben about how it runs 'almost perfect' right out of the box. I do have some concerns though as the fuel inlet seems to be awfully close to the water neck.
Here are some shots of the carb installed on the manifold.
In these photos you can see how close the inlet is to the water neck. It is only the width of a bic pen away.
I am assuming I can just rotate the inlet up and out of the way of the neck.
Finally got my valve covers back from chrome. They turned out great. Wiring, hoses, power steering pump, fuel pump and smog pump to be installed this week. Here are a couple shots of the engine with most accessories installed.
How do your springs set with the engine in? in the first few pictures the shackles are at a serious angle that in my opinion will give you a terrible ride and looks kinda dangerous. I have been having this problem with my lift kits and my only fix has been longer shackles to try and correct it a little? What do you think about it? Build looks nice by the way!
I've since upgraded the shackles to a 5" heavy duty set from IH Parts. The original shackles were flimsy and had wallowed out bolt holes. Had I driven on them they would no doubt have been very dangerous.
More progress on the engine:
Got all, except smog canister, vacuum lines installed. Used braided stainless lines with some black Fragola clamps and covers. I NEVER WANT TO TOUCH ANOTHER STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED LINE AGAIN!!!!! Had to put in a new EGR valve as the old diaphragm wasn't working properly. Also had to replace the High Temp Thermal Vacuum switch because the top nipple on the original "red" one broke off. The one I picked up kicks in at 100 degrees and the original was set for 110 I believe. Can't imagine that this will cause any problems.
Here's a couple shots of the vacuum lines:
Passenger Side Top View
Drivers Side Top View
I also installed the new fuel pump and pump to carb fuel line. I followed where my original line went but used braided stainless fuel line here instead of the original rotted hard fuel line. I used some line clamps attached in 3 different spots (water neck, water pump, and alternator bracket) to make sure the line would stay secured properly. For now it seems to clear everything just right. I rotated the carb inlet down just a tad to clear the water neck yet still clear all the throttle linkage as well.
Here's a couple pics of the fuel line path:
From Fuel Pump
It doesn't contact the water tube, yet. Not sure if that would cause any problems but I could easily put a spacer in if it does.
Water Pump and Pulley area
Everything clears great here.
As of now this is how I'm going to keep it. If I notice any problems I can always switch out to a straight fitting on the carb.
I have also installed the Lokar kickdown and throttle bracket on the new Holley carb. I have yet to cut the throttle cable to the proper length but will be doing so after I pull, clean up, and fix all the slop at the pedal bracket.
Here's a couple pics of the installed Lokar cables:
Final thing I have gotten finished up is the bypass hose radiator hose. It is a stock bypass hose with black thermal wrap and some Gates heat shrink clamps. The radiator hoses will be getting the same treatment.
Here are some pics of the bypass hose:
Not all that exciting but I included them nontheless.
Started clearing out the interior of the Scout in preparation of the re-wire that is coming soon. Found some rust on the floor pans but much less then I expected. Considering this truck sat in Tahoe in the snow I am pretty pleased and surprised that no floor pans will need replacing. Spent yesterday wire brushing out all rust spots and coated the metal in metal etch to soak overnight. Today I still need to sand down the good paint with some 400 grit sandpaper so that the por 15 will adhere properly.
Here are some photos of before cleaning:
Drivers floor pan
Passenger floor pan
Here are some after photos:
Drivers floor pan
Passenger floor pan
This thing is slowly but surely becoming a rust free Scout. Still a long way to go but I would say it is 75% rust free now.
Put por15 on the entire interior of the tub yesterday. It was a total of 2 coats plus a couple touch ups. This will eventually get sound/heat padding and carpet so I wanted as much rust protection as possible. It's the best pictures I could get considering this stuff dries like black glass.
Here are the pics:
Rear wheel well areas
Drivers and Passengers floor pans
Best firewall pic I could capture