Project Heartbreaker- another 4bt swap

Discussion in 'Tennessee Valley Binders' started by lev1a, Apr 18, 2015.


  1. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    This project was sent to us by Mr. Lance Lucas from Virginia. We had been talking for a bit about swapping a 4bt into is SD 33 powered daily driver. While his scout was still getting the job done it was in need of some sheetmetal work as well. So I suggested sourcing a nice solid rig to start with. Lance took what I said to heart and sourced a really nice rig, and what Mr. Lucas brought me was well beyond me expectations. Now this isn't for the faint of heart. If you are a die hard purist just go ahead and click the little back arrow on your browser. What we are working on is an all original, unmolested, garage kept since new, Sunday driven only, 70k original miles scout. A insanely well cared for one at that. Soooooo... what are we gonna do. Well we are gonna cut on it and put a Cummins in it !!!:punk: The end goal of this rig is a reliable daily driver that should last Lance for a long time to come and get great fuel mileage while doing it!! Lance had done a few things to the rig before we got it that needed to be addressed. New wheel bearing and seals all around, new ball joints, new brakes, new stainless braided brake hoses, 4 inch lift springs and some new 33" rubber.

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    The Motor that was sourced is a fresh Cummins recon. Sticking with the theme of reliable we didn't want to throw an unknown mileage motor into this rig so a fresh motor was the obvious way to go. Also Lance wanted to run an NV 4500. He managed to find a new rebuilt unit for a very good price. It is an early NV which knocked us out of swapping over to second gen Dodge stuff which is what I had intended to do , but we got it worked out just makes packaging a little tighter. The NV came mated to a Chrystler dana 300 which was what we wanted.

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    Since we were using the early NV we needed to source a GM adapter plate and flywheel. A little searching on the intraweb got us what we needed.

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    A little cleaning and some later we had a cleaned up bell housing and adapter plate. The flywheel went to the machine shop to be resurfaced. Also I should mention that there is some clearance work that has to be done to the adapter plate to allow for the external slave to bolt to the bell. I covered it in Project Oil Burner so I will spare you the details here.

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    Adapter and flywheel all bolted up to the engine

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    Lance also wanted to install AC on this Scout so we sourced some 2nd gen Dodge/Cummins bracketry to make that happen. We also opted to modify the alt. bracket so that we retained the use of a stock Scout II alt.

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    Pic of the belt routing.

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    Now somewhere between here and there we made the move into the new shop. The Scout drove down the road well enough, but even with new ball joints and and tight steering it was the typically squirrely Scout largely due to the lift springs and longer than stock shackles. After some checking, the caster was not where it needed to be so we decide a cut and turn was the way to go. We also gusseted front spring hangers while it was up in the air.

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    All painted up pretty after the cut and turn.

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    Gusset action

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    Last edited: Apr 19, 2015
  2. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    With the axle work completed it was time to get it back in place. We also opted to build a set of our HD tie rod and draglinks.

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    With it back on all fours it was time to move on with extraction of the old IH mill. I carefully removed the front grill, hood, radiator, and core support.

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    Daniel Edds even came to join in the fun.

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  3. mormetl

    mormetl High Wheeler

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    Very clean looking Scout, indeed. To each their own on powerplant decisions - doesn't bother me a bit - look forward to the progress.
     
  4. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    With the engine out of the way I figured I would go ahead and do things that I knew needed to be done and or didn't affect engine placement so I made a set of frame side motor mounts, flat plate for the mid motor mounts, plated the frame in the steering box location, and worked out the hydraulic clutch master, and hydroboost.

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    Again for this build we are using clutch Hydraulics from a mid 90s gm truck. Was a tad bit unnerving cutting holes in the firewall.

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    The dash has to come out of this rig later on in the build so the clutch linkage will be worked out then, but you can see that there wasnt much room for the master to cme through with the later model fuse pannel

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    Hydroboost is a reman Astrovan unit with a shortened push rod and modified mounting bracket to bolt into the stock booster bracket holes.

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    We needed to mate the motor to the trans so we could set it in place for the first time. On the last swap we did we used a heavy duty centerforce clutch for a BB 454. While in its application of large tires and high torque it was well paired, in a street DD application it was a bit grabby. Now fueling plans for this motor are moderate. We wanted something with a lower pedal pressure, less grabby, but would hold up to the torque. Again we turned to a mid 90s GM truck with a 6.5 diesel for parts reference. We specifically wanted a clutch kit for a single mass flywheel as both single and dual were offered. The 6.5 peak torque and HP were 215 horse and 440 ftlbs. Well over what we were gonna end up with.

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    All mated up and ready to sling into place.

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    Now came the time for the first test fit of the motor. In project Oil burner we ended up having to carry the downpipe over the top of the bell and down the driver side. With the dana 300 in this one we can offset the motor and it will leave plenty of room to stay to the passenger side. For the motor mount bushing as well as the trans we are using standard first gen Dodge/Cummins rubber mounts.

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    With the motor pushed roughly into place, fame side mounts tacked in, and the bushing bolted into place, it was time to bridge the gap between the two. Now here you will see the issues you run into when trying to use the mid mount point on the block and the GM transmission. Also to add insult to injury we added AC. The AC compressor fittings, starter, and turbo oil return all fight to occupy the space where the mount needs to be. The driver side is straight forward, but the passenger side not so much. Lots of time staring, cussing, thinking, and cutting cardboard templates were spent in the making of the passenger mount . The obvious goals had to be removal of the starter with the engine installed :stuart: and room to fit the AC hoses onto the compressor. I had to order some special fittings special super short 90* fittings for the back of the compressor, but with all we had to overcome I think it worked out great. Here are some pics of the mounts all welded up after the motor was removed for some finish welding.

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    With the engine side of things squared away it was time to figure out the trans mount. I had originally purchased a stock GM NV bushing but upon test fitting it was obvious that it was way to tall to use and would cause the crossmember to hang well below the frame so that is what led me to the First gen tranny bushings. After removing the stock frame side crossmember mounts, making a new set, and modifying the factory crossmember we were good to go. Now you probably notice the slant to the mounting point. This is because the P30 gm adapter plates had a 8 degree slant to them that clocked the motor over on its side. What I do is split the slant between the motor and trans so it is less noticeable to anyone looking in the engine compartment. It nets you a 4 degree lean on the motor and a 4 degree lean on the trans.

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    Last edited: Apr 19, 2015
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  5. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    Now obviously in between here and there the motor has been in and out several times, but after hopefully the final time it is out it was time to do some clean up and finish welding. We degreased the firewall and trans tunnel and pulled everything needed to lay down some dynamat. While I and the owner realize it is gonna be loud since this thing is gonna be a daily driver we wanted to make it as quiet as possible.

    Frame side mounts welded up.

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    Dynamat going in.

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    With this thing being what it was I didn't to start painting some things and leaving others untouched. Now obviously anything on the frame that is bare metal is going to get painted, but the inner fenders and such I wanted to leave as they were other than cleaning them since they were in such good shape. The battery tray was removed, cleaned and painted as it had started to rust, and swapped over to the passenger side. To do this the factory jack stuff had to come out : yep it was all still there: . Now I could have just chucked it in the parts pile, but I thought it would be cool to move it to the driver side.

    In this pic you see the battery tray in its new home, but you will also notice the factory heater core/fan box has been removed. We will be installing a vintage air setup in this rig so it was no longer needed. It should make a nice space for a cold air intake though.

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    Jack stuff moved to the driver side.

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    Thats about where we are at. Stay tuned for more progress.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2015
  6. steve graham

    steve graham Farmall Cub

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    Love this build!
    Hindsight says: For the AC evaporator unit I would highly recommend a combo HVAC unit and get rid of the stock Scout heater box. That heater box gets in the way of so many ideas I've had for my Scout 4BT. You may loose some or all of the glove box but thats a small price to pay. If you don't want to do the combo unit I'll gladly sell you my under dash evaporator.
     
  7. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    Yeah Steve that is the plan. I already purchased a new Vintage Air Gen 4 magnum. Like you said the glove box is gonna go away and looks like the ash tray may be non op also.
     
  8. steve graham

    steve graham Farmall Cub

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    Darn, and I thought I had a chance to get rid of that thing!
    Well keep up the good work!
     
  9. Russ McLean

    Russ McLean High Wheeler

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    Nice work. Sometimes I regret putting my 4bt in a F150, instead of the Scout II. Then I realize that my fab skills and budget were lacking.
     
  10. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    Update time!! With the engine back out there were a few things that were easier to attack with it out of the rig. First off the motor was purchased with an Ebay turbo. In a pinch I would say why not, but there is no way you can convince me that a 300 dollar turbo is in any way shape or form quality so I sent one of my H1C cores out to be rebuilt. This is a bigger turbo than what would have been factory on a 4bt. It is the same size and specs as what would have been on an intercooled first gen dodge with the Cummins motor. It was refitted with a smaller exhaust housing than what would have been on it to help with quicker spooling. Also the timing cover dowel pin hadn't been fixed so that was taken care of. Valve covers were stripped and shined upa little just to break up the color a bit.

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    Genuine Holset!!

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    Compressor housing cleaned up.

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    Dowel pin retainer.
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    Valve covers cleaned up and lightly polished

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    The power steering pump that was on the motor when we got it was in pretty good shape but we opted for one with dual return ports VS. t-ing the return lines

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    Motor mounts were painted and bolted back on the motor and it was slung back into place.

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    Motor swung back into place

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    Last edited: Jun 17, 2015
  11. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    With the engine back in place I wanted to get the exhaust and intake all worked out. I just happened to have a 3" downpipe off a first gen truck and with some modification it fit like it belonged heat shield and all!!

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    The downpipe got pulled back out finish welded, some flame paint, and the heat shield shined up. Forgot to snap a pic of the finished product, but with that done we were able to finish up the rest of the exhaust. We ended up with a 3" turbo back setup with a dynomax flow through muffler.

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    Little miter cut on the turn out.

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    Exhaust all buttoned up the intake was built. For it I used 3" aluminized tubing and it got an AEM dry flow air filter. I may have mentioned that this rig is getting a vintage air setup so that allowed for the removal of the factory heater box leaving a nice place for a cold air intake. The front of the inner fender was opened up via some 1" holes allowing cooler air from the front of the rig to be pushed into the filter area.

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    Attached to the fender with a bolt and a bushing to allow for some flex as the motor torques and whatnot

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    Fuel system was pretty straight forward just had to knock the flapper out of the filler neck and move the factory lines over to the driverside. Then since we had fuel we needed some throttle cable action so a bracket was fabbed up and the factory throttle cable used. Hydraboost was also plumbed.

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    Wiring was dressed in and new Scout II sender were added to the motor to keep the factory gauges working. To give the wiring a place to stay and look like it belongs i pulled the vavle cover bolts out of 2 valve covers and welded a stud to the top.

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    At this point fluid were added and checked and the engine was test fired. Got alot more , but that is it for now!!

     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2015
  12. steve graham

    steve graham Farmall Cub

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    I have to agree with you that replacing the "ebay" turbo (Holset counterfeit) with a genuine Holset is good insurance.
    But I would question your choice of the H1C from a 5.9L Cummins, even with a 12cm2 exhaust or smaller. This is a case where bigger is not better. Yes, you can compensate for the slow spooling by adding fuel but then you leave a black trail of smoke until the boost is up. But the fact is that, the big H1C was designed for 5.9L engine and works well in engines of that size but it is a poor choice for a 3.9L.
    It's like tuning a 750cfm carb for a 304, it can be made to work but its not the best choice, all the power is at the top end.
    I tried that route with the H1C that came with my 4BT and after years of tuning and trying different exhaust housings and compressors, swapped in a HE221.
    A better choice would be a HX30 6cm2, HX30 Super 6cm2 or the HE221 6 or 7cm2 all with a wastegate. Yes these aren't cheap but nobody said swapping in a Diesel was cheap.
     
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  13. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown Farmall Cub

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    Levi, loving the build! I bet you are enjoying working with a lift in the new digs! Looking good, following the thread.
     
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  14. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    I understand what your saying, and an hx30 is still not out of the question. For the record i had a lengthly conversation with a reputable turbo shop before deciding on running this turbo. They seem to think that everything will be hunky dory. Also low boost fuel is easily controlable to an extent via the starwheel which i know your aware of. We will see what happens on the test drive and what our boost, egts, and smoke says. This H1C has the same size exhaust housing as the stock baby H1C. I was mainly looking at this as a compressor wheel upgrade which should help clear up smoke from any added fuel not make it worse.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2015
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  15. steve graham

    steve graham Farmall Cub

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    Good luck on the tuning.
     
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  16. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    Had a minute and thought I would go ahead and put what other pics I had handy on here. We needed to work out the AC condenser and intercooler. I ended up having to space the radiator in about 3/4 of an inch with some rubber bushings to fit the intercooler behind the grill. Fabbed up some mounts for the intercooler and bolted it all in .

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    Plumbed up

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    With the intercooler in and happy I wanted to get some of the AC lines plumbed in so I fitted the HVAC unit and put some hoses together.

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    In this pick you can see the snazy bulkhead I picked up for the hoses pass through. After the hoses were all worked out I took them to the local hydraulic place and had the crimped.

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    With that I was able to put the front back together. This is where we are to date pretty much. Stay tuned!!

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  17. steve graham

    steve graham Farmall Cub

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    Looking good!
     
  18. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    Just thought I would throw up a quick update. The rig is done and sent home with the customer. I was able to put 186 mile on the rig before it left here. I reluctantly let it go as I would have liked to had more time with it but the owner was very persistent on getting his hands on it. I am happy to report though that it made a 500 mile trip home doing interstate driving running 75-80 miles per hour. Average fuel economy was 23.5 MPG. I will post up the rest of the pics when I get time.
     
  19. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    Wow!! I really dropped the ball on updating this thread. Here are a few finished pics and a vid of it running down the road. To date the customer has put over 26k on the Scout. Here are a few pics of the rest of the detail. Interior all stripped out ready for some clean up. Minor rust treatment with por 15, a coat of bedliner, and some dynamat.

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    Installed a factory front floor mat to help with heat and noise and reinstalled the hvac unit. Laying down on the job

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    Unit installed and plumbed

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    I filled the hole where the factory heater controls were and drilled some holes to mount the vintage air controls

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    Trans tunnel reinstalled with the shifter installed

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    Fabbed up a gauge piller mount for the boost and Pyro gauges

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    Nice set of corbeau seats

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    It also got a set of our rocksliders for use as a step to aid getting in and out

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    Last but not least some shots of the finished motor install after a bath

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    To finish it off a short video of it running down the road! Little 4 banger will push 20 lbs of boost.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 26, 2016
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  20. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    Moved this thread here in hopes of some local exposure as it wasn't getting many views where it was. This was a pretty fun project that I was super proud of so thought I would share it with you guys.
     
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