Project Fully Involved - 1969 IH 1300D Foundry Pump Truck

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by mjmck, Oct 15, 2019.


  1. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Did a little investigating this AM. I really think the rear reservoir is for the front brakes (but I am really second guessing myself). Its tough to trace the lines in that back corner as there are a bunch of wires, little fuse panel and what looks to be those lines that are abandoned down on the frame. The larger O.D. brake line goes to the rear of the MC and looks to T into the front. I put some fluid in both bowls (front brake lines VTA) and pumped the brake a few times to see if there was anything leaking out at the back end. Nothing...

    Ran some fluid through it but of course it only wants to come out of the drivers front as its the first open port. Thinking about getting a brake bleeder pump and going around one by one with a temporary small threaded hard line attached to the rubber hose so I can connect the bleeder to it. I agree at the minimum this MC needs a cleaning, will look into rebuild kits. What about the Booster, should this get replaced or do these rarely fail/degrade? Its an ugly looking sea life piece but if it works I don't need beauty (want this truck to come off as a work truck).
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  2. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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  3. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    No progress to date as I was out of town all week. Still waiting on the front spindle seals to arrive.
     
  4. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Spindle seals came:
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  5. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Disassembly of the booster to clean. The function seems smooth and I can feel the diaphragm actuating, so I think reusing will be viable.
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  6. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Well I was going to get some better pics on the process of packing wheel bearings (manually), but when your covered in grease and don't want to touch your $700 phone you write it off as a loss and show milestone pictures.
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  7. Chris Cooper

    Chris Cooper Binder Driver

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    Amazing progress & results, man-- beautiful work!

    You might want to replace your clutch linkage boot while you have improved access to it. It'll keep fumes, noise, and heat down. At least that was my rationale when I replaced mine.
     
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  8. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Thanks! Need to do some investigation of the clutch stuff for sure. May I ask where you got the boot from? Mine is whooped as you noticed. The clutch feels fried but still works. Engagement is at the bottom of the throw. Might also be adjustment but I would love to limp the clutch to next winter if possible.
     
  9. Chris Cooper

    Chris Cooper Binder Driver

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    IHPA—

    [​IMG]

    It also works on the parking brake cable where it comes through the firewall.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  10. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Got one hub on the spindle. Was a bit tougher than I anticipated, mostly due to the locking washer, the thing is stupid thick and EXTREMELY hard to bend the tangs back over. Took a break on the drivers side to come up with a better game plan to bend the tangs,. Just cant get any flat bar to fit in there, and my smaller punches are just too flimsy to bend them:
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  11. stroker3

    stroker3 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Might be wrong but I believe being that thick they don't need to be bent completely over to hold the nut. . IIFC mine were just 'twisted' slightly. Again it's been years and harder to explain than show but have you tried a using a very large screwdriver or the flat side of an old " L'' shaped tire iron? Just hold the flat end in next to the end/corner of the tab with a good amount of force then firmly turn/pry on it until the corner of the tab bends slightly.
     
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  12. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    I did some scouring in the shop for other devices I could use as a pry bar in there. Need to be something more rod like to pry against the washer backing or maybe a large screwdriver like you said. My screw drivers and rods are too wimpy and my pry bars are just too darn big. Just a tough angle to get in the snout of the hub and bend them correctly without galling the hub or bunging the threads for the drive flanges.

    Think I might have sound something, will give it a try today and report back.
     
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  13. Chris Cooper

    Chris Cooper Binder Driver

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    I used a drift about a foot long to bend those when I was reassembling my Jeep hubs (same hub & knuckle as a 1310). As Stroker said, you just gotta bend 'em a little; they won't bend 90 degrees over due to that thickness.

    On a somewhat different subject-- I noticed something on my truck's steering this weekend that I felt I should pass along to you: in the process of trying to adjust some play out of the front of the drag link, I noticed the pitman arm was very slightly loose on mine, and by loose I mean on the splines, not that the nut itself was loose. I tried to tighten the play out of it, and ended up having to add a flat washer, which got rid of the majority of that play. I had to loctite the pitman arm shaft threads, then, because the split lock was pretty much taken out of play by the addition of the flat washer. I found that placing a finger or thumb on the arm, lock washer & nut and having a helper work the steering wheel back & forth was the best way to find any play in the system; it's really hard to actually see.

    Anyway, thought you might want to know.
     
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  14. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Interesting, will take a look at that once we finish up the front axle. I have done tests in the past with vehicles running (due to power steering) and having a buddy quickly jiggle the steering wheel right and left at most an inch or so from center and with the weight of the vehicle on the tires can help to find the little areas of play as well. Did this a lot with my 90's GMT400's. As of right now I have looked at the joints directly associated with the tie rod but nothing with the pitman arm (rod I think in my case) and steering box.
     
  15. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Spent about 30 minutes cleaning up the booster. Some of the corners that I couldn't get the wire cup in still have corrosion but I will hit them with the small drill unit prior to some primer and satin paint. Not bad for a gross removal effort:
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  16. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Did some more scouring of my manual and I cant seem to locate the drive flange torque specs. It more refers to trucks with lockouts. Has anyone located this in their manual or done it previously?
     
  17. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    Should have known not to trust the counter guy. Sent me home with jap-scrap brake lines, this is American Iron! Will have to go back and reject them:
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    Also got the booster primed.
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  18. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    First coat of Satin!
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  19. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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  20. mjmck

    mjmck Farmall Cub

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    So I have been doing some lurking on this part you mentioned and found a few things. First off I found a post a while back here on BinderPlanet showing a picture of this seal in a manual with a part number of 341691C1. See threat here with the post #6 by Jeff: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/...d-clutch-clutch-linkage-firewall-seal.116257/. I come up with nothing but jibberish on the webs when searching that part number, but the picture in the manual looks identical to this: https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automo...X7BV1BQ8HC7&psc=1&refRID=11E527577X7BV1BQ8HC7

    Looking into part 398296C1 replaced by 434913A the stock pic form IHPA mirrors the Crown unit below: https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-5355322-Clutch-Pedal/dp/B00B8X85K0. Also some of the other IH parts places use this stock picture: https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-16919-02-Clutch-Rod-Boot/dp/B000FQ7QTM.

    Contemplating on which one of these to try, obviously either would need holes drilled. My current mutilated seal only has 1 small sheet metal screw in place. The shorter unit looks to be much better angled for how the clutch rod comes through but the other appears more stock. Ultimate reasoning for looking into these are the 1/4 to 1/2 price tag of the others found while searching IH part numbers and the similarity of these parts to others.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020

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