Project Double D's

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by punjig, Aug 14, 2016.


  1. gwinter1129

    gwinter1129 High Wheeler

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    Haha, good call Mr. Crockett! You heard it hear punjig, you will have to change your aviator name to "The Surgeon". Besides no one knows what the heck punjig means. Greg
     
  2. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    I am Very Humbled. I really appreciate all of the kind words you guys have expressed. The best part of reading those kind words is when I read them to my Wife. Her eyes just rolled. She just doesn’t get it! LOL! :tt2:
    I really want you all to know, most of these ideas have come from this community and others like it. I just love that I can finally share some of my ideas to do my part to contribute to all of us that are committed to keep ALL makes of I.H. on the road. My favorite thing (before the tear down) was to drive my Scout and people (mostly younger generation) asking me about it.

    Well @Crockett & @gwinter1129 Greg, obviously I cannot change my Handle as that would be considered Blasphemy!!!!!! :devil2: I did however change my avatar to reflect the comments above. It seems appropriate.
    BTW, even one of my closest friends doesn’t know what “Punjig” is. I always tell him, if he guesses it I will tell him if he is correct. So, good Luck, haha! :punk:

    On to another build post. It is not much, but it is forward progress.
    I work a 12hr day schedule with 7 on and 7 off, however we have been shorthanded for the past 9 months so I am always working. 7 days off have become more like 2 lately. Not much wrench time, :wrenching: an hour here or there. However, I did manage to get some grounding issues completed. A lot of people don’t realize how important it is to have a good grounding system. Electrons actually flow from – to + (Luckily I know a few things about electricity). So I attached a few shots of what I have done to ground the Chassis, Engine and what will be the Winch.

    When deciding on the battery placement, I drilled a small hole into the body mount bracket and used some copper hardware to make the connections for the negative battery terminal to Chassis. I used 2/0 Copper for ALL Battery cables. This was to allow me more ampacity (Amperage Capacity) for running things like the winch, etc.
    P1010858.JPG


    I took a beginning ohm reading of the meter itself, it appears to be Zeroed out at .2ohms. I then took and ohm reading of just the wire, it also was at .2ohms. Finally, I took reading from wire to wire through the chassis it also read .1ohms. I’m sure the difference is the error factor in the meter itself as .1 ohm is basically nothing. So, the wire and Chassis have little to no resistance. I needed to verify this to be good because we all know how finicky EFI is when it comes to good electrical. I know I will be getting a good ground using the Chassis as a conductor.
    P1010851.JPG P1010853.JPG P1010856.JPG
    I utilized the small hole next to the front shock mount and used some copper hardware to make the additional connections from Chassis to Engine, etc.
    At the same time I ran my #2 Copper Conductor to the Starter. The started will not draw more current then #2 will provide. Once again, I utilized the inside of the Chassis for this.
    P1010869.JPG P1010870.JPG P1010872.JPG P1010866.JPG

    I the last pics are of my grounding system for the body and lights, etc. I used a bus bar from an electrical panel and bolted it to the frame in the same location on both sides. All of my equipment/body grounds will be made up there. I will eventually do the same for the front.
    P1010875.JPG P1010876.JPG
    Please ignore the touch up painting that will need done. once everything is put back together I will be addressing these areas.
     
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  3. Crockett

    Crockett Farmall Cub

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    Great avitar Punjig although a lot messier than your work AND your shop would imply from what I see in the pictures :yes:. It was good to see your pics on the grounds as I had this on my punch list this weekend but couldn't find appropriate copper hardware. Looked at Tractor Supply & Napa, Ace Hardware and True Value with no luck. I can appreciate the importance of having a good network of grounds. Great posts... keep'em comin'
     
  4. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    I looked everywhere also for copper hardware. I finally found some on E-bay. I never did try the local Electrical Supply Store only because they are a bit of a trek from me, but I'm sure they would carry them.
     
  5. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    It has been sometime since my last update. I have been pushing forward, and this next part of the build took sometime to complete. FINALLY, it is done and a monkey off of my back!

    So after some research I have decided that I would install an Electric fan into Project Double D’s.

    First off, I know there are a lot of different views as to which are better, a Mechanical Fan or a Electrical Fan. I am not posting to start a debate, "Which is better, electric fans or stock" is a topic that has been beaten to death and we won't be having that debate here.

    I can’t speak for everyone, However I can speak for my needs.
    Project Double D’s is going to get an electric fan for a couple of reasons:

    #1 The electrical system in her has been completely overhauled to handle the additional draw of Amperage. Between the 2 Batteries, the Upgraded Battery Cables and the High Amp Alternator an addition of a GOOD Electric fan only makes since.
    #2 On Demand Cooling, With a Electric fan and the way I will wire it I will be able to turn the fan On /Off in the cab for whatever reasons I might need.
    #3 If in the future I decide that the Electric Fan is not going to cut it, all I have to do is unbolt and put the Mechanical Fan back into place.

    After much deliberation, I've decided to swap my stock fan for an electric fan.

    Granted, This might not be the best option for all. Also, not all electric fans are created equal. A cheap fan from some bargain warehouse store will not do.
    I have done my research and have found that the absolute best Option for an Electric Fan is going to be a 2 Speed Lincoln Mark VIII Fan. That Big Beast is about the best anyone could use to cool an IH Machine. However, we all know how little space there is between the Water Pump and the Radiators on these Scout II. A Mark VIII just will not fit without some further fabrication.

    I decided the Ford Taurus fan might be another good 2 speed option. It is thinner than the Mark VII but it also has smaller diameter. The only problem with the Taurus Fan was the fact that there were limited mounting options. I would have to fabricate a way to mount it. That was not a deal breaker, but I figured I would keep exploring options

    After further research I found the answer. I found it HERE that the Volvo Fan was the same as the Taurus Fan. They were built by the same third party contracted manufacture and they both have the same 2 Speed Motor. The only difference: the Volvo is thinner (however it offsets closer to the radiator, so really the same overall thickness) and it mounts differently to the shroud. The Taurus fan is usually built in to the shroud and, as stated above, one needs to fab up a mounting solution. The Volvo fan has mounting holes built into the fan.

    I have also found figures that state this fan pulls 4500CFM on high speed and 2500CFM on low. Hard to say if this is 100% true or not but these figures are based on Multiple websites and you can ALWAYS believe what you read on the internet!!!

    There is one other difference that a lot of people overlook, (or maybe not) but in my opinion it is what made a part of my decision easier to make. The Volvo Relay Pack is a separate unit from all of the other relays in the Volvo Vehicle. The Ford Fan Relays are NOT separate and are mounted in the Relay Box with all of the other relays. This means that one would have to buy and or build a Relay Pack for the Taurus Fan (or you could buy a Volvo Relay Pack).

    I decided before I shelled out any cash I would explore the local Pick-A-Part. There is where I found the best option, I found a few Volvos with all the fans and relays intact. They also included all of the connectors that would be need. So, for $27.50 per Fan, Relay and Connectors setup it was hard not to go ahead and grab 4 of each setup. The good thing about electrical part is they either work or they don’t. My thinking is this: 1 for Project Double D’s plus on extra Relay Set for the Glove Box and 1 for my next Project, My daughters Scout plus Relay Set for the glove box. The extra fans just come with the relays. Either way same price might as well have a few extra fans. All of the parts cleaned up to look brand new. So, with Fans, Relays and backups in hand I was ready to go.

    Please Visit My other Thread “Electric Fan Wiring and Relay Set Up (How To)”. On that thread I spell it out exactly how to wire up the fan and the relays to make the fan work with all types of setups, With or Without A/C and EFI Controls.

    In this post I will cover how I made my Fan Shroud for this beast of a fan. Here are a couple of pics of the fan and relay packs:
    1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG 4.JPG
    I started with the Champion Radiator for the Scout II. Very Nice product and they were really helpful on the phone. I am very impressed with the Radiator.
    I will be using a BMW 2 temp switch to control my fan as one option of control and will wire it for such. I also have the option to use the Holley EFI setup I have to control the fan VIA ECM. This is an option I will explore later and might be a permanent option when I get the Scout back on the road. I will wire for both options and whichever I decide it will be just a matter of unplugging from one and plugging into another.

    I only mention this because I welded a bung into the radiator to accept the BMW switch as the pics show.
    5.JPG 6.JPG 7.JPG
    As Mentioned, The Fan has a slight offset that made direct mounting to the radiator not possible. Even as Champion provides the offset of about a ½ inch for the shroud mounting this still was not enough space. Plus, I wanted just a little more room INSIDE of the Shroud to allow more air movement across the whole radiator. So I took some measurements to get as much room as I could for mounting this fan.

    There was a ¾ inch of a offset for the fan mount.
    8.JPG

    It was time to make the shroud.
    To keep up with tradition, all projects must start with a little sacrifice on the Ole’ Ladies Part. (Ex. Sand Blasting Cabinet for Small Items=Loss of Noodle Strainer)
    Let’s not break tradition!
    One X-Mas Wrapping Box. Only Kicker, she won’t find out until X-Mas time when she’s looking for it!!!! :taz:
    This MUST be sacrificed to provide for building a template in order to make the shroud.
    9.JPG

    First I made a basic square box setup and took some more measurements to get every bit of space I could out of the area provide. With a 1 ¼ space with in the shroud, this gives me a ½ inch of air flow space between the middle of the fan and the radiator (more space is provided between the blades themselves and the radiator).
    10.JPG
    After building the square box I Cut some side pieces for one side of the Shroud. The fan would also have to set to an offset towards the Passenger side of the Scout because of how little room there was between the Radiator and the Water Pump. Not a deal breaker at all, I will still be getting full air flow across the Radiator.
    11.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2016
  6. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Badda Bing Badda Boom, The Template was complete!
    12.JPG 13.JPG

    Now the fun begins, it was time to start the bending of the aluminum that I would use to make the Shroud. I put it in the brake and started the process.
    14.JPG 15.JPG

    And finally a test fit.
    16.JPG

    I cut the Main Hole and the Flap Valve Holes and had a buddy of mine weld an aluminum spacer on the passenger side for the ¼ inch offset and weld in fillers to limit air holes. After all the cooling will only be as good as the air coming through the radiator and not the engine compartment.
    17.JPG
    I than began the task of grinding and sanding the welds to make the shroud appear as one piece.
    18.JPG 19.JPG
    After working my way to 1500grit I put a polish to it.
    I then figured out a way to seal the sides. I sure most might recognize our door seal?
    Anyways, I had a box of new seal from the P.O. that never installed it, so I used my OLD seal after I cleaned it up. I also installed some foam rubber seal tape from the local hardware store for the fan hole. This will help with any vibrating noises.
    20.JPG 21.JPG 22.JPG 23.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2016
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  7. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Test fit on the Radiator to make sure all is sealed up, and installed into its new home! Its hard to tell from the Pic but the clearance will be enough, even for a little flexing.
    (BTW, it was tested into place on my parts Scout to make sure clearance was not an issue)
    24.JPG 25.JPG 26.JPG 27.JPG 28.JPG

    For now, I will be wiring the Fan Temporary in this test bed environment so I will not cover that part in this build forum.
    Again, Visit My Other Post:

    “Electric Fan Wiring and Relay Set Up (How To)” to see how I came up the different ways to wire this fan so it will work with different Switching and Relay options.
     
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  8. RinTX

    RinTX Binder Driver

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    Nice custom shroud.
    What are the rectangular cut outs on the left side used for?
     
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  9. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Those are the Flap Valves. They are just a rubber flap that alow air flow when driving down the road with the fan off. When the fan kicks on they suck shut allowing all of the fan to provide the air flowing duties.

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
  10. 53cj3a

    53cj3a Farmall Cub

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    nice work! I wish I had your fab skills!!
     
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  11. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for the compliment. Although I am limited on some of my skills. I have found that I have had to learn by trial and error and I have had to have others help me along the way. I just post the final resualts, make me look like I know what I'm doing!!! LOL

    BTW, I sent you a reply on another forum, I am in Henderson. Give me a yell when you get back so I can check out your Scout!!!


    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
  12. 53cj3a

    53cj3a Farmall Cub

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    count me in. However, compared to yours its going to look pretty shabby......
     
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  13. gwinter1129

    gwinter1129 High Wheeler

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    Punjig, beautiful work on those grounding wires! Greg
     
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  14. A-man930

    A-man930 Farmall Cub

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    beautiful build!
     
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  15. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Thanks A-Man. I appreciate the compliment!!!

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
  16. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Well , after 2 years in the making I FINALLY got over a major Peak. I throw the fire to the 345. She Ran like a Raped Ape. :punk:
    I can't post the video here (at least not that I Can Tell) so visit "Project Double D's" on Facebook to view.
    The Fuel Injection preformed flawless. and she sounded deep and throaty.

    20Min into the Cam Break-in and the rockers started clacking. Pulled the Valve Covers to find I lost Oil To The Rocker Train. I verified I had oil before I covered the Rockers Initially By Hand Cranking and using a Drill Motor to the Oil Pump. Looks to me like I wiped the Cam Bearings the feed the Rockers. I believe this would be #2 & #4. Even with no oil it still ran perfect. I am hoping the cam is OK because I believe the lobes broke in fine. So, If the cam is good I should be able to change the bearings and re-fire and just get the bearings broke in. The rest of the motor is good i believe.

    The motor was machined almost 2 years ago and the machinist is a POS, I will call him but I don't believe he will honor anything because it has bee past a year. I don;t think he took my advice and put Dura-Bond Cam Bearing in it in the first place. I think he used whatever came in the rebuild kit. He was a PITA to deal with and I wish I would have not let him touch the block. I now have a lot of other contacts through this building process and have learned from others that I should have never taken it to him.

    So, moving forward, I will be tearing into it to find if Wiped Bearings are the issue (which Im 98% sure it is) and will post some pictures as I go. So, climbed the Peak just to find a bigger Peak on the other side. :death::hang::drown::dig:!! That's about how I feel right now!

    Trying to replace the bearings with out pulling the whole motor apart (Heads, Valley Pan, Etc.). However, I will be pulling it out of the Chassis. Any suggestions you all might have, by all means, let me know. I could use any help. Thanks:thumbs up::thumbs up::thumbs up:!
     
  17. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Well pulled the Oil Pan and it is now official. Wiped the Cam Bearings. More than 1 bearing looks like the Pic below. Time to pull the motor and get it fixed. Dura-Bond Bearings will be installed.
    Leason Learned on trusting my gut about the machinist. these cheap bearing didn't stand a chance of a proper break in. I can't believe they even sell this crap.
    P1011068.JPG
     
  18. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Well, while the motor was at the machinist getting the warranty work done I decided to go ahead and get some parts re-coated. The paint on a lot of the engine parts would chip off any time I tightened a bolt down. I was just going to live with the problem and preform touch ups when need. BUT since I needed to break the whole motor down for the builder I decided best to address the problem and powder coat everything.
    P1011091.JPG
    P1011096.JPG


    Just a little side note: when I went down to the coater I picked a color red the I think is absolutely a great match for the IH red we all like. It is called “RAL3003” AKA “Ruby Red”. It is a common powder coating color. I also found Sherwin Williams (Industrial location only) also sells it in a rattle can for our engine blocks to match. If you can’t find it locally there are a number of mail order places on line that will sell it, just searched for “RAL3003”.

    P1011084.JPG

    After getting the motor back I decided to take the opportunity to change the hardware. I went down to the local McFadden-Dale Hardware store to find some Grade 8 Allen Head Style hardware. After making the anti-whistle plugs for the exhaust (earlier in the build) plus realizing the intake manifold needed that style bolt head to better tighten and seat (after reading one of Bill Hamilton’s Posts about the subject) I decided to change all the engine hardware to the same style. I think it give the motor a more of an modern day industrial look.
    P1011099.JPG
    P1011137.JPG
     
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  19. Crockett

    Crockett Farmall Cub

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    Beautiful! I've got an idea doc; let's see how it fits in my 76


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    HAHAHA! You A Funny Man!!! There is only one problem, Talking Momma out of HER $$$$. :gunsmilie: to build another one for my 72. Some how, I make the $$$ and it becomes Hers.:nono:
     
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