Project BigRigg

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by BigRigg, Mar 24, 2014.


  1. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Sweet. Sounds like I am going to upgrade my AC when I get to that point. :rockon: Today I fixed my rear lift gate. Good as new! Here is how I did it...

    Plain ole' 1" x 3/16 stock:
    20140526_144045.jpg

    I ground down a section of the stock so the stock would sit flush on the lift gate, drilled some 1/8 holes and cleaned the metal with Phos Pho
    20140526_154356.jpg

    Went together easy with some rivets. Don't have pictures of the lift gate installed, but it shut so easy!
    20140526_175042.jpg 20140526_175048.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
  2. Josey

    Josey Farmall Cub

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    It's looking good sir!:punk:
     
  3. Arkansas Dave

    Arkansas Dave High Wheeler

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    That was a slick idea it shouldn't ever have a problem again. Glad to see you're still working on it, hang in there it will come together sooner than you think.

    AD
     
  4. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Well...This project took a back seat for a bit...

    In Sept, we bought an old horse farm. The house needed a lot of work, so all of my efforts were going into that.

    The Farm got the better of us, and now we have 5 mini horses. :cornfused::no:

    The farm has a new 1200 Sq ft Shop!:clap::beer:

    I was FINALLY able to get in the shop and get some quality time with some buddies, and the old scout. Here is where we stand now...

    Front Clip was removed, dash was torn out along with all wiring, and the gas tank was removed.
    20141113_163015.jpg 20141113_163105.jpg 20141113_163146.jpg 20141113_163217.jpg

    Thanks again, Josey and Scott!

    Next up: Reverse Shackle, and Parts Mike Hi Steer...
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
  5. Mater

    Mater Farmall Cub

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    Enjoy reading your build. I plan on putting in new wiring and dash gauges also. Let me know how that project goes. And you got your dash gauges from IH America?
     
  6. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Wiring is Coming up. Ill do a very detailed write up here. I did get the gauges at ihpa. Very nice and the price was very competitive.
     
  7. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    I spent a few hours in the shop yesterday.

    Here is the progress on the scout. Removed the front end, the springs, the hangers, the shock mounts. The springs were a chore. All the u bolts came off easy, except one. I really didn't want to cut the u bolt, because I plan on using these again. LOTS of patience and PB blaster, and I was finally able to get the nut loose after about an hour. I thought for sure that this was the worse of it, but then I couldn't get the rear bolts out of the mount on each spring. I had to eventually remove the whole mount, and then I was able to get the bolt out with a 8lb sledge. I sure am glad that I was getting rid of those mounts anyway!:clap:

    All and all, I spent about 3 hours out in the shop, over something that should have taken an hour...:no:

    Here is how the scout sits today...
    20141116_171651.jpg 20141116_191140.jpg 20141116_191201.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
  8. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Wow, time really flies...

    I have been working on the scout off and on, but not a whole lot to post. It seems every time I get ready to jump on the scout, something else comes up. Lately, it's been our daily driver needing attention. Head gasket, timing belt, water pump, exhaust manifold, fuel pump...and not all at the same time. The water pump and timing belt were changed, and about a month later, I noticed the car burning antifreeze. New headgasket, which meant I had to redo the timing belt...Anyway, enough about that:offtopic:

    Here is how it sat this morning...
    20150716_183314.jpg

    I have completely stripped the tub. I have cut out and replaced the driverside rocker panel and wedge. Before I started cutting metal out, I thought that I would use some 2x6's I had to Keep the body from sagging. THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA. At the time, I thought that it would hold, and I had no metal to make brackets with. The wood works "ok", but it does not keep the body solidly in place. Metal would be better. As you can see, I had to do some adjusting to get the rocker in:
    20150729_205521.jpg 20150729_205527.jpg

    I have cut out the front driverside floor, but have not installed. There is some rust on the driverside tunnel that is preventing me from finishing up the floor. I need to go get some 12 gauge, and build a patch before I can move forward with that.

    Today I welded in the rocker, and the wedge, but I had a really hard time getting in some of the tight areas with the welder. Plus my helmet is oldskool and does not have an auto darkening feature. How did the old timers see anything? I have got to get a new helmet:hammer:. I know my welding boogers would look a whole lot better if I could actually see my work.
    Speaking of welding, sheet metal is really tricky, and I suck at it. I decided before I get into the passenger side floors, I need to take the body off the frame. So that's what I did!:whistling:
    20150730_173448.jpg
    20150730_173730.jpg 20150730_182534.jpg
    I have installed the partsmike histeer, Which is really great BTW. I also changed out the wheel bearings since I was in there. I have also built the tie rod and drag link.

    I have finished up the reverse shackle.
    Here is my mock up:
    20150615_131745.jpg

    And the final product:
    20150718_200539.jpg 20150718_200454.jpg 20150718_200532.jpg 20150718_200519.jpg
    It sits good, but I am a little dissappointed at my pinion angle. Right at 0 degrees. :uhh: I'd do a cut and turn but I incased this front end the last time I did that, and it would be a huge PITA to change it again. I have a FS D44 and 14Bolt that I was going to put in Pumkin, but the scout might get those:shifty:, and I'll fix the pinion angle then...Actually giving this more thought, I suppose I could just move the mounts a wee bit. Just a few degrees would be ok... Nothing is tight yet, and the bolts in the front spring eyes are temporary. I shuld be able to get the correct bolts in tomorrow. I still have some painting to do on the front axles. I left them rusty for the time being, because I am using some Chassis saver on them, so they need a little rust.

    Anyhow, that's all I've got for today.
    Here is how it sits this evening...
    20150730_182534.jpg

    I sat the body on some sawhorses. I plan on rolling out the frame sometime this weekend, and giving it a really good wash with the pressure washer, and then i'll do some paint work on it.

    Once that's all done, I'll work on the body some more. Stay tuned...
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
  9. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Time for a Bath!
    20150801_1336341.jpg 20150801_1336481.jpg

    The drive train was pretty clean, but there was still a lot of road grime that came off. I spent about an hour with the pressure washer, and everything turned out pretty well. The drivetrain has been out in the weather, and we have had a few rain storms since I rolled it out. It's starting to get a little surface rust. I think that I am going to go over it again with some heavy duty degreaser, just to be sure that everything is clean. Then I am going to paint the frame, tranny, tcase, and springs with gloss black Chassis Saver, and repaint the engine.

    I have spent the past few weeks working on the body. Rockers, and floors are in. A few things I have noted with the sheet metal. First off, for anyone reading this; if you are considering replacing your rockers, get the full version. I had traded for some rocker skins, but needed the inner rocker as well, so I had those made locally and pieced everything together. I am not really happy with the fitment. These replacements were from SSS, but they are "smaller" than stock, so it's hard to line up everything like it was. For example, I could run the rocker under the A pillar, but the floor braces would not meet the inner rocker, they were too "short". So I had to shimmy and use a lot of vice grips/c clamps to get everything "close" to where it was. We'll see how everything goes when I put the doors back on.

    Another note, regarding floors. They DO NOT fit from the A pillar to the hump seam. They are a little narrow, about 3/8 inch. I am not very happy about it, but I made it work. I'll have to use a bunch of seamsealer between the A pillar and floor, on top of the rocker. These floors will be covered up, so i'm not sweating it, but if they were exposed, I would be sending them back. If you are doing floors make sure you measure before you cut. The dog leg on the driver side was shot, so I could not leave a lip, and I had to replace part of the hump section, so I couldn't leave a lip. I left a lip on the passenger side so it was not as big of a deal.

    Ignore the Booger welds. I'm still learning! But getting better...I think:cornfused:
    20150827_155343.jpg 20150827_155357.jpg 20150827_191457.jpg 20150827_191529.jpg

    And the scout tub was set on the shop floor.
    20150827_192230.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  10. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Tonight, I needed to flip the tub over to start the "fun" part of scrubbing and cleaning the bottom. This was interesting all by myself, but I got it done.
    20150830_160837.jpg 20150830_162630.jpg

    And I bought 4 cans of this at the dollar tree:
    20150830_164440.jpg

    I just sprayed it on, and I have to wait at least 6 hours before the rinse. I used 2 cans tonight. I've heard that oven cleaner is pretty outstanding stuff for a degreaser. We shall see. Tomorrow, I'll post the results.

    I'll need to re-apply. 40 years of road grime is on the bottom of this thing, and it's pretty caked on. I am dreading this process, because I know that I'll spend a good few days scrubbing.

    I thought about using my sandblaster, but i'm inside the shop, and sand gets everywhere. I have a gravel drive, so I can't just wheel this thing outside. Fun times.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  11. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    :censored:scrub, scrub, scrub...
    ok, by the way, The oven cleaner works REALLY GOOD, but man it's toxic stuff:nuke::nuke::nuke:. I bought four cans, but could have used more. I believe that it's better than any degreaser you buy off the automotive shelf, but it has to sit, so it's not practical in every application. A few days of scrubbing has turned into a FEW WEEKS. It is so easy to get carried away, and the bottom of this scout was nasty. THIS JOB SUCKS, I don't want to have to do this again, so I'm taking my time and doing it right. After the oven cleaner, I used some prep and etch to clean most of the rust away. The bottom of the tub is pretty much done. Topside I still need to weld in a few patches, weld up a few holes in the floor and then it's off to the bullet liner people for them to work their magic.

    no pics of this process, pretty boring stuff.

    Really tired of all this tub work, ready to move onto something else...a few more days...
     
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  12. Testerdahl

    Testerdahl Farmall Cub

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  13. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    This is how the tub looked right after the oven cleaner:
    20150831_140511.jpg

    And then I took a flap disc (or 5) to it:
    20150831_140552.jpg 20150831_140615.jpg
    20150831_180708.jpg 20150831_180749.jpg
    It's hard to tell from these pics, but the bottom of that tub is clean!:punk:Topside I got my patches in, and seam sealed all welded areas. I used some 3 M seam sealer, and it was good stuff, but extremely messy. It came with an applicator, but it didn't do much good. After about 10 minutes, I was scooping it out of the tube with my gloved hand and applying it with my fingers.

    Finished up with some herculiner.
    20150924_141851.jpg

    I need to finish up some sealer on the bottom of the patches, and that's it for the tub! Until I get it back, anyway...
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  14. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    This 4x4x1/4:
    20151001_160524.jpg 20151001_160742_001.jpg
    Plus the little orange guy:
    20151001_160822.jpg

    Equals this!
    20151001_184125.jpg 20151001_184134.jpg 20151002_124957.jpg 20151002_125019.jpg

    It took about 4 hours to cut the old crossmember out, take measurements, and install the new. Love that little plasma!

    I need to finish cleaning the edges and weld it in, but at least it's dry fitted...
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  15. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    I forgot...
    The last thing I did today was to fab up the new front shock mounts. These towers ended up being right in a weird spot on the frame. So I had to figure out some sort of support on the top side of the frame.
    20151002_153854.jpg 20151002_153932.jpg

    I ended up using some scrap 1/4 inch I had left from the cross member, I welded the shock towers to this, and then welded that to the frame. I'm sure it will work just fine.
    Next up is to fix the driver side u bolts. There is not enough thread on them, so I need to run a die to fix that. In this pic, I just needed to suck them up enough to get my measurements for the shocks.

    Then I am ready to finish painting the frame, steering, and anything else that needs it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  16. Josey

    Josey Farmall Cub

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    You've been busy!
     
  17. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Hey Josey!
    yep, I've been pretty busy. time for an update...

    I cleaned up the storage corner of the shop (TOOK FOREVER, AND I'M STILL NOT DONE) and wheeled the frame over there on some dollies. I thought that I was going to have some working room in front of the tub for paint and whatnot, but the civic decided to blow a exhaust manifold, so now it's pulled in there taking up all the room!:censored: Fortunately, the manifold has a 5 year warrantee (just bought it in March) so they are sending me a new one.

    At this point, the frame has been painted. I freshened up the engine/tranny/tcase to make it look good again. I had to bend a new front hard brake line, since I broke the old one trying to bend it a little! It was really ok, since I wanted to mount the brake lines behind the shock towers and the old line was just a little too short. The flex brake lines are buttoned up, the AC and Power steering mounts and steering gearbox are painted.
    20151014_175335.jpg 20151014_175344.jpg

    Josey, here is a shot of the tank you gave me-
    20151014_175404.jpg

    I used chassis saver on everything. A brief plug for Chassis saver-- I really like it. Its pretty thick, and dries HARD. my only gripe (more of an observation, really) is that Chassis saver does not like to stick to smooth surfaces(it's designed to paint over rust). So If you go this route, you'll need to do what I did and go over everything with a 80 grit flapper.

    Drivetrain is ready to go. Next week (Thursday) the tub goes in for undercoat. The goal for next week is to get the body mounted to the frame, inner fenders installed, sound deadener installed, and get started on the wiring. Probably not going to happen, but that's the chain of events anyhow...
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  18. Alex

    Alex Farmall Cub

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    Why did you paint the engine Chrysler blue?
     
  19. CazNeck79

    CazNeck79 Binder Driver

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    Yeah, you gave me a hard time for having a green tractor. At least my IH's are still RED! LOL:devil2:
     
  20. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Hehehe. It's international blue. :tt2:I bought from the local international dealer. It's the same color they paint their diesel engines.
     

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