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Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by binder-badger, May 13, 2020.
And a Dana 300!
The wiring improvements occurred on later 1978 models built after May 31, 1978 (or possibly earlier. I use this date because it is my build date and my 1978 has 1979 wiring). Charging circuit wires at the bulkhead connector got redesigned as well as some other refinements. I did change to a 1973 grille as that is my favorite.
Good starters. Your front bumper looks like a factory winch option, pretty cool right there. Personally I never cared for stock rear bumpers that had the curved ends or wrap around look. While they look sturdy, one little hit and they just folded into the fender with a nice ding or worse oil canning the rear quarter panel. Powder coating is a nice tough lasting finish. Springs would depend on the ride quality and use. Shocks may be an answer if yours are old and worn.
As to originality, I know one guy kept his strictly stock and clean. But then it turned into a garage queen and it did get trophies at shows and events. For me a Scout implies use, and trail use at that. While factory equipment was okay, some was marginal and improvements that just showed a better or more robust idea that went with clean lines and didn't detract originality was the way I went with my 800. I call it modified stock and made the rig more useful. Well executed safety upgrades are always good such as a roll bar, 3pt safety belts, etc and don't interfere with originality unless you're going to Pebble Beach.
I take it you're in the PNW. In Oregon we have IHSTO, International Harvester Scout and Trucks of Oregon. It's local club and 10 years ago we had rallies in Brooks, Or. People came from all over. Your Scout would've been a trophy candidate. Until this Covid deal we still had monthly meetings in Salem. I live in Lebanon and it's a drive, but I team up with a guy in Corvallis so it's a nice way to get away for a bit.
The paint is unique and definitely has a wow effect. One of our members, Jim Allen aka Binderbookie, could fill you in on details about your vehicle as he has access to lots of factory materials and records. It would be a good idea to get a build ticket, or line set ticket, that would show all the equipment that came with the vehicle as it left the dealer. Scout Light Line dealers such as IH Parts America can get you one. Look into getting a Service Manual, it will really help with the repairs and the electrical schematics in them are worth the cost alone.
Greg - Funny, turns out I'm in Corvallis. Work in Salem but often telecommute.
Good to know about IHSTO - I previously did some looking and came across that but all the links I found seemed broken and all the info was dated, so I assumed it was defunct. So is it still active?
I don't know if this thing's winning any trophies. I forgot to post a pick of the rear end but it doesn't look so hot. It's nice but the pics paint a prettier pic than up close. And yeah, that heavy duty bumper sucks. Both ends have been hit (I'm guessing backing into trees or something) and I have small dents in the lower corner of each quarter panel. I would like to find one of the regular bumpers to replace it. It'll definitely need some body work and a repaint at some point. Sadly I don't think those decals will be replaceable; although they are original, they were dealer aftermarket I think and so I don't know that I could get them anywhere.
Binderbookie hooked me up with a contact to get a line set ticket. What he could find did align with the vehicle as shown.
I do want to use this, but don't think I'll really wheel much it like I did my old one; maybe some light duty stuff where I'm not going to beat it up too much and scratch the heck out of it. Someday I'd like to pick up an 80 or 800 and might put it to slightly more hard use. Gotta get this one settled first. Being from the area, do you know anyone you trust for benchtop rebuilds of a tranny or transfer case? Just about every seal on this thing leaks and so I'll probably pull some components over the winter but while I'm doing that I think the transfer case might need a rebuild. It seems to make more noise than it should and I can't get it into 4 high. 4 low is fine but 4 high is sticky. I've lubed the stuff underneath but maybe something else inside is having issues. I was thinking of dropping it someplace along with a rebuild kit
Binderbookie looked up my chassis and indicated it had a D20. Is it possible the 300 was partway through the '79 model year? I do want to figure that out for sure as I will be ordering some gaskets and seals for that soon-ish since it's kinda leaky.
Ignore my follow up question about the club being active. Somehow I missed that in your post. I'd be curious to check out a meeting sometime though. Is there any contact info or a good website to check for once this Covid stuff is behind us?
3 pt belts is a very wise move. You already have the high back seats.
Myself I don't consider painting rusty parts and similar maintenance as destroying the character at all. On the contrary I see a well maintained classic that is going to last a long time.
Wow, nice Scout!
Two words -- FLUID FILM (others will tell you some other flavor is better -- great, whatever, pick one...)
Now, while you're waiting to decide what to do -- start spraying fluid film all over the entire undercarriage (except the exhaust). Get the wand kit -- spray it into the frame cavities -- spray it inside the doors -- spray it everywhere to slow down the rust that has already started everywhere. Scouts tend to rust from the inside out...
Soon as you can take the front fenders off to remove the 30 years of crud built up between the fenders (example of why they rot from the inside out...) and build a screen to keep new crud from getting in through the cowl opening...
Spray inside the windshield frame -- it's rotting from the inside out too -- right now, while we're talking!
It’s a great Scout as it sits! Agreed with the others that maintenance and rust prevention are all it needs for now. I’m in a similar boat with my Travelall, it has some minor rust and paint issues, but once I start a little bit of paint and body work, I’ll probably keep going. I’m not ready to do that just yet.
Use it and enjoy!!
Thanks for the Tip. Never heard of the stuff so I'll do some research. Might be something to conisider in the near term. I'm hopefully going to pull the window frame and front fenders over the winter to do some work. One of them has a small hole forming right in the spot where the stuff builds up. Checked out a couple vids on that yesterday and wasn't aware the cowl just drains right into the fender. That's a bit of nonsense. Just hoping I can get that stuff off without scratching it up.
Cool. Appreciate your input.
I agree on both points, interior is fair game. Probably end up under carpets and floor pads anyway. 3 pt belts are a common upgrade and can keep you around longer if things go bad. The real trick is keeping the outer skins the way they are. Might only need a good wax job and a place out of the sun or a real good car cover. I have also heard of people clear coating old cars to preserve the original patina, but I do not know if that is effective or not. However it might be worth looking into.
Wow. If I ever came across something like that, I wouldn't bother with too much "frame-off" restoration related stuff. Like everyone else, complete required/preventative maintenance including rust mitigation. Small factory/period correct upgrades and just simply drive and enjoy. Stock, or mostly stock survivors will always be worth more than heavily modded vehicles down the road. I'm myself just kinda got back into the "car" scene from decades of absence, and was surprised at the number of unmolested survivor cars/trucks at car shows. For me personally, I'm always drawn to those first over "restored/modded" ones. Good luck and most importantly have lots of fun with it!
These guys know how to enjoy their rides and worry much less about the asthetics...
Well. Not if you're in California. I believe that was the year cat-cons were introduced on the Scouts? I assume they're still required here for Emissions reasons. That would hamstring a person wanting to re-do their exhaust system. Everything else though, yep. Might even get a factory 4-barrel carb in the deal? I forget which year the 4-barrels came back. Thought it was '79.
A lot of people like the idea of the caster on the '80 axles, and that 2° caster is probably nice for a completely stock Scout, but it many not matter if you lift the scout. For sure it wouldn't have helped me much. When I did my Cut and Turn I needed to rotate the yokes back 9° (to end up with 5-ish of caster). So having an '80 axle would only have saved me a couple of whacks on yokes with a sledge.
I agree. Said it before. My '78 has a '73-ish grill too.
OP: FWIW, I think that's a really nice looking Scout. I like the utility aspect of the trim level. If it doesn't have any serious rust, I'd leave it alone. But maybe before waiting too long, pull up the flooring and weather stripping around the doors, to see the condition of the metal in those areas.
I'm going to sound like a broken record here, but I would leave it alone, from an aesthetic standpoint. Treat the rust, do what you can to prevent further rust. Fluid film in the cavities and undercarriage is a great suggestion. A nice wax on the paint...
The only things I would do to that(outside of rust control and maintenance) if it were mine...
1. Fuel injection
2. Hydroboost brakes
3. 3 point seatbelts, and a stout rollbar
4 anything else to improve safety and drivability.
5. Accessorize as the need allows. For example, when you need tires, get some good looking all terrains.
I guess what I'm saying...I'd keep it period correct, and make it sporty looking with accessories. But I would make it as safe as I could for my family.
Beautiful scout, btw. And welcome to the binderplanet!!!
Just a general post to say thanks to everyone for your input on the matter. It's been super helpful while I kick around ideas i my head. I think you've given me the direction I need.
Ah. I looked at the pics more closely later. No flooring material to lift! That's a good thing. Wet floors dry much faster that way. Can't trap water against the metal. I am envious.
It still has the factory vinyl in the back. I need to pull that as it was definitely trapping some moisture in the corners. But I think I just need to wire brush all the floors and put down some rust converter and figure out what I'm going to top coat it with. Floors are solid but definitely have some surface rust that needs to be dealt with. Trying to decide what combination of stuff to treat them with. So decisions to be made, but it's amazing the difference between this one which was in a salt free environment vs the one I owned 25 years ago in the northeast that was missing a lot of floor when I bought it. I was thinking of taking off all the rust I could, then treating with the POR15 3 part system and then top coating with black paint or Als Liner. Just on the bottom floors. I'd leave all the side walls alone. They are beat up a bit but not rusty.
I’m in Corvallis as well. Cordray’s in Albany for the transmission, they do great work. PM me if you are interested in talking Scouts, socially distanced of course.