New Scout owner in Seattle

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Dreamingofbinding, Feb 27, 2020.


  1. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    Greetings! I've just brought a new Scout into my family and am planning the upgrades and improvements. I've had two Scout II's in the past and foolishly let them go, so i'm excited to do it right the third time with this one.

    What I've got:
    I bought a really low rust 1973 with a 304 and Automatic. It has a showbar, a decent 20' paintjob that was done in someone's garage and has been upgraded to front disc brakes. The seats are in great shape (though I'm not sure if they're original) and they're not on the original mount. It's also got some nice steel bumpers on it that look really good. There is no carpet, headliner or door panel insers in it, so it is loud and rattly!

    Vision
    What I want to do is accomplish a few goals as a fun family project with my kids (they LOVE the Scout, just like I did at their age)
    For driving, it's a truck to drive a few days a week to work (20 miles) or for running errands/etc. I do want to get it dialed in enough that we could take it up to the mountain (40 miles) or camping or something with confidence.
    I want to convert it to a 392 with a 4 speed. The car was a factory 4 speed and has the clutch pedal still installed in the cab, so hopefully this is a doable project!
    I want to really protect it from rust, so I plan to POR 15 the undercarriage and the interior floor this summer, and then fluid film underneath the scout and ALS sound and heat blocker plus the liner inside the truck as well as inside the door panels and the roof to quiet it down and protect the metal long term.

    Suspension
    Currently has tired stock springs and shocks, a 1" body lift with new body bushings, and for some reason a shackle lift on the front, so it is a little higher in front than back. I don't want to raise the truck (or only do a tiny amount), but do want to improve the tracking and make it sit level.
    I think my best alternative here is to get the rough country 2.5" lift kit, with the Bilstein shocks, and replace the shackles with stock length and replace the shackle bushings at the same time. If possible, i'd also pop in some shims to give me some caster. If I could find stock height springs that wouldn't break the bank, i'd sure consider it. How much is the 2.5" lift going to screw up the steering? The steering gear and mechanism are pretty tight, but it does wander on the freeway, likely due to the shackle bushings and lack of caster.

    Where I'm at now
    I drove it 4 hours home and have been driving it off and on the last few days (purchased Sunday), the transmission is working great, but the engine needs a little love (and your advice).
    It's got a MSD Hifire 3 hooked up to the factory Holley distributor, and has what appears to be the stock 2210 Holley carb.

    Issues:
    Terrible hesitation when cold. Can barely climb up the road by my house and can't make it up it at 25 MPH in the morning.
    Vacuum hoses are all routed wrong (pictures in next post). I've reset the timing, but think I've got a vacuum problem. I know a lot of folks have trouble with the 2210, but i'm trying not to sink money into a new carb if I can get this one running well for now until I do the engine swap.

    Any other thoughts?
     
  2. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    Pictures as promised. What do I need to change with vacuum lines to get it running right before I look at carb tuning?

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  3. rustfreeTX

    rustfreeTX Binder Driver

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    Welcome, you may want to post in the General IH Tech section as well, you'll get more responses. Also be aware that folks will strongly suggest you get a service manual if ya haven't already.
     
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  4. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Rust Free. I'll do that. My challenge is trying to figure out where I go from where I"m at. I'm missing the EGR and several of the little thermostatically controlled vacuum valves. I don't know if I need them or if they are something the truck can do well with out.
    I did buy the shop manuals, but they reference the way it should be, not how to "get by" without everything. :)
     
  5. Greg Cejka

    Greg Cejka Farmall Cub

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    On a lot of these older machines stuff that should be there isn't or its been replaced by non factory parts and you want what you have to work not to buy a new factory replacement. nice looking scout. That's a neat paint scheme. I would start by plugging any open outlet and go from there. Good luck
     
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  6. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    Looks pretty good!!! I like the gallon water jug! Coolant overflow?

    I'd consider Hamilton Fuel Injection. Solves all your car, spark, timing issues. Works awesome.
     
  7. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    Ha ha! Yes got it home and realized that was missing so used the water jug for a couple of days until my new tank came in.

    This weekend I installed that tank and put the correct master cylinder on it.

    I think I’ve got it running well or now. Hunting for a a 4 speed and 392.

    I also have to solve for suspension. Po put extended shackles on front so front is higher than back. Also has 1” body lift. I want to make it right and improve the ride. Might do the load assist shocks in rear and call it good


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  8. Dutch

    Dutch Farmall Cub

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    Nice looking rig. It's awesome that your kids are involved. I hyped a Scout for 3 years as I looked for the perfect specimen. Found what was perfect to me-- rust, barely running, mouse-infested, etc. My kids took one look and ran away.

    Not to start a "Tastes great"/"Less filling" debate, but... if you haven't already, I'd recommend checking out epoxy primer. Specifically, www.southernpolyurethanes.com. I haven't bought or used it yet, as I am pretty far from that point, but I plan to. I have been reading up a lot on it and have called them for guidance (customer support is top notch). From what I have read it is tough as nails if (and it's a big if) it is applied properly. Must be clean, bare, 80-grit-scuffed metal. Rust converters underneath can cause problems. It can be brushed on if it's an area that won't be seen. I have no experience with POR either, but I believe it is a bit testy to apply too. Maybe others with experience can chime in.
     
  9. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    Great tip, thank you! I have dreams of buying one of those eastwood countour SCTs to just totally strip it, then do the epoxy primer, then go over with the alsliner, but I might get a little lazier than that. My biggest things is I've got a really straight body so I want to do everything I can to protect it from rust. I'm working on the wife at home to let me get a carport up for it that meets style guidelines.

    I've got it running pretty strong with some great help from folks on my other thread, so now I can turn my attention to things like the mystery toggle switch on the dash that does nothing??? and the lack of cabin lights (I need to find a light for the under dash lights, my instrument lights are fine, but here are no courtesy or floor well lights. I should add a tach and sell my freshly milled 304 heads too to make room for the next set of projects on the Scout.
     
  10. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    A little update.
    She runs OK now, so I'm leaving the tuning alone for now as it's good enough for the occasional drives uptown.

    She's missing the courtesy light system and the cigar lighter, so I ran a new, fused circuit to the dash and put a stock looking receptacle right under the stock "Lighter" lighted sign. Now I have a full 15A available here. I also put in a low profile dual 3A USB charger in the socket with a voltimeter in it. I'm seeing that it runs about 14.8V while running with no loads and then it drops to 14.4V after driving around for 15 minutes or so (ie, no lights/fans on). Does this seem high or OK?

    I scored a deal on a gently used Hamilton Fuel Injection that's just missing a few parts, so I'm getting the missing gaskets/etc and will probably install that in the next couple of weeks. I'll try to film a before/after cold start and 0-60 run to show the difference (if any).
    I do have a fuel fuel drips in the back when the gas tank is full, so I need to decide on replacing the tank (wife will hate this expense) or just replacing all the rubber lines and seeing if that stops it. I also have to determine which fuel lines to use for the TBI system. I'm torn between just doing braided lines the whole way with AN fittings, or doing it with hardlines and just short runs of EFI rated rubber lines.

    I also bought two 3.5" speakers and the adapter from Anything Scout to mount them in the stock dash location to get a little more sound volume.

    Lots more to do, but no more buying parts until I install what I have. Work has been INTENSE the last two weeks and I haven't gotten to tinker.
     
  11. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    OK! April quarantine update.
    sound: bought the adapter kit and 2 x 3.5" pioneer speakers to put in the dash. that happens this week so we'll have tunes
    Fuel: Ordered a new poly fuel tank and a new sending unit/gasket. Hopefully they ship before the freight gets shut down.
    My buddy is loaning me his tool/fitting kit for Nylon lines, so I'm planning to tackle the Hamilton conversion in the next few weeks. I'm just going to be sad not to drive her for awhile while I convert/order parts
     
  12. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    New update!

    Pulled drivetrain to make room for 392 and t19

    Bought new poly gas tank to go with Hamilton fuel injection

    Replacing every rubber line in the car.

    Bought new rpt ih only tranny mount.

    Should I reuse these motor mounts or buy new ih only for $200/pair[​IMG]


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  13. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly High Wheeler

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    If theyre solid, with no cracks ,or deteration, I wouldnt be scared to reuse them....
     
  14. Dreamingofbinding

    Dreamingofbinding Farmall Cub

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    Thanks mongo. The rubber only sticks about 1/8” below the metal bucket, which makes me think they’re compressed to metal on metal once the motor sits on them


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