New Member: I bought the P.O.S. 1974 Scout II

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Scout2Jack, May 25, 2018.


  1. Scout2Jack

    Scout2Jack Farmall Cub

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    Ok guys. GREAT NEWS!!!! I finally got the new carb completely installed. I got all the vacuum lines sorted out (I think) & I got the electric choke wired. I ended running a wire straight from the ignition switch. I used the l3 terminal as suggested by Mr Kenmore. I used my test light to figure out which terminal was only on when the ignition switch was on & it was the larger/wider terminal on the switch just like Mr Kenmore stated. Luckily this terminal was open & had nothing going to it. Not sure if that is a good thing or not. I had to be a little creative because I couldn’t find anything wide enough to slide over that terminal so I bent open a smaller connector & then re bent it to fit. It fits pretty snug & should work just fine. I also installed an inline 10 amp fuse. So after getting everything all sorted out I started her up & I immediately noticed a huge improvement on the idle speed. Way slower. I did have to adjust the idle speed on the carb up just a little bit so it wouldn’t die, but still a lot slower. I decided to try shifting it into gear to see if it would stall & low and behold the thing shifted into gear & didn’t stall. FINALLY!!!!! I also noticed that it’s not running super rich any more because I’m not getting choked out by the exhaust fumes. Now I can mess with the timing & get her purring like a kitten hopefully. I’m trying to upload some videos of it idling & shifting to you tube but I’m having problems. As soon as I can get them loaded I’ll post them.
    Thanks for all your help fellas. This was a huge victory for me & im hoping it will be a little bit easier going forward.
     
  2. Scout2Jack

    Scout2Jack Farmall Cub

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    Oh. I was also able to find a flame arrestor.
    -Can I install it into the valve cover without using the original air filter.
    -Also I’m noticing that I literally have no brake. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. It has s new booster & master cylinder plus I’ve bled the brakes. Am I missing something?
    Thanks again for everything guys.
     
  3. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Hate to say I told you so, but...nah, I'm fine with it. That's great Jack! You needed a victory to get reinvigorated with this project and I felt pretty confident all along that this would deliver the goods. I'm glad because I know it took a chunk of change to get it. But well worth it, wouldn't you say?
    Yeah, you can douche out the flame arrestor with liberal brake clean spray chased with compressed air if you have it. Then thread it in to the cover. Most aftermarket filtration housings have a perforated circle in the bottom half that can be knocked out to allow for a plastic elbow fitting to be inserted. Then you just need the right size and length hose to make the connection.
     
  4. Scout2Jack

    Scout2Jack Farmall Cub

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    Here you go. I figured it out.



     
  5. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    With regards to the brakes - you state that you have a new master cylinder and booster. Did you bleed the master cylinder before hooking it up to the brake system? Did you properly set the gap between booster rod and master cylinder?
     
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  6. Scout2Jack

    Scout2Jack Farmall Cub

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    Yes to both. I used one of those fancy plungers with the rubber on it to bleed the booster & I bought & used a gauge to set the gap.
     
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  7. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Is there still fluid in the reservoir? I'm too lazy this morning to go back into this behemoth thread to see if I can find the answer to this next question myself...so here I go. Is the "new" master truly BRAND NEW rather than a REMAN that looks new? They aren't the same thing. Reman masters are commonly junk right out of the box. Sad but true.
     
  8. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Nice work. Motor sounds good. If you are inclined to use the correct connector, they can be found here:

    https://www.repairconnector.com/5-16-wide-packard-10-12-awg-female-lock-tab-terminal/

    It's a real oddball and I have not found it in many other places. You would need the proper crimper to do it correctly.

    With all these posts and replies, I don't remember if we went through how your alternator is wired. There are three wires (the big one and then the connector with two). #1 wire of the connector would ideally go back to that same terminal with an idiot light. The fact that nothing was there is a little of a head scratcher so I wonder how your #1 field wire is wired now.
     
  9. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I went back through the thread to the point where you were working on your brakes and I saw where I and several others had warned you to avoid reman masters, but there was no mention from you as to what you bought. We go from those warnings to you in progress on bench bleeding, which seemed like it went well for you at the time. So I'm very curious to have the questions that I've asked recently answered by you.
     
  10. Scout2Jack

    Scout2Jack Farmall Cub

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    Ok. I just went hrough my receipts. I have a remanufactured brake booster from Napa Auto & a NEW master cylinder from Auto Zone. Could the proportioner valve be the problem. Is there a certain procedure to follow to bleed the brakes with proportioner valve or is bleeding from furthest wheel to closest wheel still the proper procedure. What’s weird is the brakes seem fine when bleeding them. You’ll have a lot of pedal, but once the rigs running that all goes away & the pedal pretty much drops right to the floor.
     
  11. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    What happens if you unhook the vac line from the booster and pinch or cap it so it can't leak, then run the engine and apply the brakes?
     
  12. Scout2Jack

    Scout2Jack Farmall Cub

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    I disconnected the booster line & plug the hose going to the manifold & then I put another hose on the booster connection & plugged that too. Started the truck & it does have more pedal & holds, but it’s really hard to get the truck to stop. I drive it around the block & had to mash really hard to get it to stop. Seemed harder than regular non power brakes. Here’s a link to me driving around the block. Sounds a lot better with the new carburetor.
     
  13. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    That engine is doing much better. It idles down and it accelerates in gear under load...amazing! It seems like the master cylinder is working. You don't have to cap off the booster fitting. Only an open source of vacuum...the end coming from the manifold needs to be capped. The other end is just dead when nothing is hooked to it.
    Either your check valve at the booster is bad, or the reman booster itself is bad. You can't get NEW boosters for these things anymore. Did you send your old one off to some rebuilding company?
     
  14. Scout2Jack

    Scout2Jack Farmall Cub

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    No it was a remanufactured booster from Napa Auto. I turned my old one in as a core. Is the check valve the gold proportioner valve???
     
  15. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    I can’t remember- did you get a Mitey Vac tool?
    The check valve is in the booster itself. It holds the vacuum so that if the engine were to quit or lose vacuum - you still have boosted brakes (for one or two applications)
     
  16. Scout2Jack

    Scout2Jack Farmall Cub

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    No. No mitey vac tool. Bled them the old fashioned way. One person pushing brake pedal & keeping an eye on the master cylinder while the other person is opening wheel cylinder valves. Maybe why it didn’t work????
     
  17. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    The check valve is the plastic doohickey pressed into a rubber grommet that is on the front face of the booster. Your vac hose then connects to the hose barb fitting on the check valve. Hope that booster is under warranty still. You might be taking it back.
     
  18. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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    I prefer bleeding the old fashioned way. I have found it works better.
    I most often use my mitey vac tool to either check vacuum (it works as a vacuum gauge with fittings for just about any size line) or to apply vacuum to see if items such as distributor vacuum advance or brake booster are functioning and also hold the applied vacuum.
     
  19. winchested

    winchested High Wheeler

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    The mighty vac would not work to bleed the front brakes thru the prop valve for me. But did work on the rears.
     

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