Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by a.stanford, Apr 9, 2012.
Im hoping for the same result.. we'll see
Can you give me a dumb-downed version of what to look for?? sorry.. what are common spots to check? Terminal wires, etc..? Or is it one of those "it could be anywhere" scenerios..
It did start right up today cold. 1 turn of the key..
So do you suggest i do the plug wires as well? they seem rinky-dink to me. Also, which Pertronix would fit my truck (74'Scoutii) there were many choices online.
** side note
I tried to find an obvious reason for my dash gauges/lights not working and I must say.. there are a lot of GREEN wires in there. jeezus.. I found one severed in half at the door with the wire exposed. Think maybe just a door-ajar light or something? but what a mess in there.
I lost my running lights in the rear last week sometime as well.. didnt know it 'til i got pulled over. all fuses are ok?? ughh..
better start putting a lot of nickels and dimes in the Scout jar-
I tried to make an album, but it kept loading thumbnails...
so ill just post here
2012 ScoutsWest Beach run
... so much fun. Great group of people.
pulled the old crusty coil out today- and.. ( video below )
UUGGHH!!!?? new ignition coil(MSD) brand new battery and cables... damnit man
Coils don't generally overheat due to old age. Probably nothing wrong with your original, because obviously none of the new parts thrown at it have fixed the true underlying issue. Like Brian H. said, you have a parasitic drain that is sucking your battery down like a biker chick suck-starting a Harley. The intermittent loss of some of your lighting and/or instruments is just another tell tale sign of the same thing. Here's what you do. Disconnect both battery cables. Put your battery on a slow= trickle charge for several days if necessary to restore a full charge. Then connect your positive cable to the battery only. Leave the negative to dangle. Take a simple 12 volt incandescent light with alligator clip on one end and a probe on the other. Ensure that all switches, fans, radios, lights etc are turned OFF. Clip the alligator clip to the loose negative cable and stick the probe end to your negative battery terminal. Bet it lights up brighter than Christmas, don't it? Praise be! Now, reach up under your dash and remove just one fuse from the panel, then redo the battree probe. Lather, rinse, repeat one fuse at a time until you find the one what makes the test light stay dark. You've just isolated your problem circuit. Next step is to trace that circuit as far as necessary to determine where the insulation has been compromised. Good luck.
the battery in the video is BRAND new, 20 minutes old. Could it be drained that fast. Before first turn of the key!?? To turn over that slowly... Hmm.
I will do what you suggested, I just feel like it should turn over fast with a new, good battery. Wierd...
You're right. Twenty minutes is an extremely quick drain time. The testing for a drain is still worth your time, but first I'd take a really hard look at your battery cables, the connections at the starter solenoid, and the wiring in that general region. The ignition coil has absolutely nothing to do with the speed that your starter motor cranks. You could remove it completely with no effect on cranking, but the engine wouldn't be able to light off. Its shaping up that you have a severe voltage drop between the battery and the starter motor, with a parasitic drain still possible.
i agree.. thank you for the input. i'll check things out tomorrow if theres time.
no more new parts til i figure out whats happening....... good thing i'm not a surgeon
Way too frustrated to attach story goes along with pic.. I'm over it
Didn't quite make it to the Soledad Cyn. exit I see! Wherever you were coming from, you probably passed my place.....I am about 10-15 minutes the other way if you need any help! Just saying!
Exactly where I am! (where it still is..) I absolutely NEED help
My neighbor and I got it started and I thought we were in the clear.
That battery looks pretty small to turn over the IH 304. Check the CCA rating on the battery, Im guessing it will be it is below 650 CCA. That may not be enought to turn over the motor fast enough. You should have at least a 800 CCA battery.
With that said, all the advise Scoutboy has offered is right on the money. Check the ground cable, both ends MUST be clean, that means grind off where the cable bolts to the motor and clean the battery termanal so that it is shiny, the same for the inside of the connector.
The same must be done for the positive terminal.
A dirty connection is a point of resistance. What that means is the "power" flowing from the battery to the starter to spin the motor has to travel through the "dirt". Dirt does not like to allow "power" to flow through it, so it resists or restricts the flow of "power" going to the starter. This will do two things, cause the starter to spin very slow and create heat at the point of the "dirt". Very, very carefully, it may get hot....rolll the engine for a bit, less than 30 seconds. Then Carefully touch each battery terminal, then the point where the ground wire connects to the motor and then where the positive wire connects to the starter. If you find "heat" you found your dirt....clean it.
It's a345 too actually, I will check the terminals more thoroughly but... The battery is 600/750? and I just bought it. It's the one "for my scout" at Napa.auto
I was able to jump start it this morning and get it off the freeway and back to my house this morn.
Anyone have any luck with a gear reduction starter? Are they a big improvement? Because it seems at the very least these beasts are always a bit tricky to start, even when they're healthy?
I removed my starter today.. As soon as I applied a tiny bit of pressure to the bolt, the solenoid broke apart. After removing the starter and looking at it, I could see where the main crack was and that it appeared to have been there for awhile.
I took the starter and the solenoid to my local parts place and they will have a new rebuilt unit waiting for me tomorrow. $50 I will be really excited if this was the cause of my slow crank/no crank problem. Then I just need to do the fuel lines and Im basically lookin good for now!
Yep- that was it! Back in the road...!
Starts right up every time, woohoo..!
Thanks everyone for all the tips, and help. I'm very grateful. Glad it was a relatively easy fix. Now just gotta get to those rotten fuel lines...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nope.. Still not fixed. Damnitman!
Electrical issues are fun.
-melted a pair of jumper cables trying to avoid the tow
This things a beast..
1. your battery cable crimps look like crap-custom battery cable can make you cables you can rely on and forget
2.possible charge problem-check output of alternator..over 14.5v your good..if 15v or higher even better..output on the alternator can be all over the place due to number of windings and differences in thickness of wire used for windings
3. possible corrupt diode pack in alternator (aka shorted)
4.shut off everything on truck..check amp draw down on battery with everything off..should read zero or damn close..if not, you just becamer wise as to whats causing the problem (aka sunthin is shorted with key off)
5. check battery voltage..if under 12.8ish volts see step 2..
6. unhook battery after each ride like i do just to make sure you aint keeping your local parts guy richer than he needs to be (after you find and locate the problem of course)
7. the above is what i would do to start the criminal investigation
ps: about 0% chance you IC was or is the issue..damn things rarely go bad..if the black ooze aint coming out its still going to work as intended
ps: no scout is tricky to start when its rebuilt according to factory intended design..the little boogers really are reliable and will run "clean" with right parts for a lotta years
Nice scout, wish I had a panel truck like the one in the pictures to turn into a camper, that thing is cool