Body Solder 201 (Or What Else Can I Use This Stuff For?).... A few months ago I started putting blue painter's tape near specific areas that still needed to be addressed. Like a punch list. No, it is my punch list! I'm slowly whittling down the list, but, like bills that continually come in the mail, they seem to never end. Here's a quick summary of what I've been up to should anyone give a hoot. I had several bolts and screws that did not make it out of the body alive the past few years. Usually the Phillips head stripped or I managed to shear the bolt in half as they were so rusted to the nuts. To these areas, I said Helicoil. (What a wonderful tool). Not wanting to wait another 54 years for the floor pan to rust out again, I drilled "stock" drain holes in the DS and PS pans, and one for the fuel transfer valve. I'll get to the primer in a sec. Well, how many ways can I f*&^ up this time? Let me count the ways. I've owned a set of bimetal hole saws for such tasks. When I reached for the required hole saw for the fuel transfer valve, I saw a 1" on the side (the diameter of the valve body) and proceeded to drill said hole. When I test fit the valve, I saw a 1/16" gap all the way around the valve. WTF? Turns out I grabbed a 1-1/8" hole saw. And to add insult to injury, my kit didn't even come with a 1" saw. Double WTF. All this even before thirty. Fix is in progress but not complete yet. I finally welded the DS seat base to the floor pan and bulkhead. As I can't afford duct tape, I used painter's tape to mask off the areas that needed to be primed first (I use self etching weld through primer, but only where the areas are "buried"). Glad I took good notes on the exact location of the seat base. Fast forward to the first photo with the primer laid down. Then it was off to the races. Here's a typical example of what happens when IH did not bother with primer between panels . Here's a typical example of what I did to remedy this issue . I discovered a few pinholes in the upper reaches of the PS kick plate a week or so ago that were well hidden by the paint until I stripped that area. Should of just stopped before I got to this point . Anyways, I picked away until I found good metal. I definitely was not in the mood for yet another patch, so I depressed the area slightly to make a very shallow bowl, and applied some body solder. And, one additional punch list item that I finally dealt with was one of the two screws/nuts that holds the high beam switch to the firewall was trashed. I drilled out the remnants of the screw but the hole in the nut was too large to tap (using the same #10 screw). So I did what any (in)sane person would do: filled in the enlarged hole with some body solder and then retapped it for a #10 screw! I placed some aluminum foil between the nut and my copper backing tool, then I tinned and finally packed the crap out of the hole with solder. I don't know the shear strength of lead-free body solder, but I do know that it's pretty respectable. At one point I tried to "flatten" some solder so it would not roll around before melting by hammering it on my shop floor. It barely distorted. So I figure this repair will have sufficient strength to hold that high-torque high beam switch!