Never Enough Champagne

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by oneof3k, Feb 27, 2018.


  1. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Part II....

    A couple of additional areas of body soldering that I forgot about in the previous post.

    Tailgate (no duh). Pic taken before welding up crack and holes which was done before soldering.

    inside stripped.jpg

    tailgate soldered.jpg

    PS kick plate.

    Body Solder2.jpg

    Body Solder20.jpg

    And a pic showing the benefits of a rotisserie! Ignore those shiny things on the floor off to the right. They were staged to make it look like I knew what they were!

    Body Solder22.jpg
     
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  2. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Wow just awesome work Ed! :thumbs up: If your on the doors and tailgate paint has got to be next week? :)
     
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  3. nozmokey

    nozmokey Farmall Cub

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    Holy cow Ed. That's some serious professional work. I've got a Scout down the hill that could use some of that.
    Keep it up.
    Cheers,
    Steve
     
  4. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Thx for the kind words Jay. Yes, paint will be completed by the end of April. That's April 2020 at my current rate!

    Not sure how professional my work is, but I try. And apparently I'm getting pretty good at this photo shop stuff as I'm fooling several of you! I was just in Parker last Friday, picking up a set of "daily driver" turbine hubcaps. They were dirt cheap. Took 90% of the dings out of three of them in short order. The fourth will be relegated to a future clock or wall art.

    hubcap1.jpg

    I've been putting in a few hours into Barb's end caps this past week, although Mary Jane received 22 inches of the white stuff last week so I was distracted. Sometimes it feels like I'm I taking two steps forward and three steps backwards. This lack of access is killing me, but I'm slowly getting a bit closer. But not close enough to post any pics yet!
     
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  5. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    Remember Ed, there are NO rules. You can make your own prying dollies from scrap, rod, pipe, tire spoons, what ever it takes to pry out. Believe it or not, shops will cut that whole panel off, work it and weld it back on. No rules!
     
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  6. 800bman

    800bman High Wheeler

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    I’d love to see some before and after of those turbine hub caps...
     
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  7. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    Thx for the encouragement! Believe it or not, I have been spending some time thinking about how to make a "remote" dolly that I can snake down behind the end cap. While I was growing up and quite a bit more wild then I currently am, my motto was "the only rule is there are no rules!". My current motto is to just tread water whilst breathing air, or not looking at grass roots :dig:while lying on my back!
    Jeez, their only hubcaps for crying out loud! But here you go. The only before pic I have was the ad on CL.

    CL hubcaps $35.jpg

    And the three that are in reasonable condition now (the upper cap still needs a bit of loving).

    CL hubcaps $35 staightened.jpg
     
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  8. oneof3k

    oneof3k Binder Driver

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    If Rear End Slapping and Massaging Does't Work, Try Acupuncture Followed by More Slapping....

    For the past two weeks, I've tried begging, touching, threatening, listening, yelling, pleading, and about everything else I could think of to get my end caps to play fair. While they gave in here and there, they certainly had a mind of there own and weren't overly cooperative. Kinda like teenagers? But yesterday, I finally got them (well, actually only the PS) to get with the program. I guess they just got sick of me and my antics and gave in. Here's the story....

    I've already posted pics of the end caps after a bit of work a couple of weeks ago. (I was able to remove many of the major dents using modified C-clamps as I've already shown. I was then able to shrink some of the higher areas using a shrinking disc, but only to a small degree.) By enlarge, using any of my dolly's behind the end caps was nearly useless unless keeping Band-aid in business counts as a progress! Based on suggestions here, I purchased a stud gun/welder to help pull out the remaining dents. I went with a HF unit. More on that later. End caps after the first round of stud placement and pulling.

    stud1.jpg

    first round studs.jpg
    After pulling out what I could with the slide hammer, I cut them off or twisted them off and proceeded with round two (welding in studs between the initial studs). Then onto round three. I used 3 mm studs on the DS and 2 mm on the PS, so that I could perform a semi-controlled experiment. The stud gun has worked very well but the slide hammer was questionable (just like many of the reviews I read before hand). The slide hammer continues to work well with the 3 mm studs but it either didn't grip or didn't let go of the 2 mm studs. So I made a modification (with manufacturer's approval of course) to the slide hammer. Gizmo on the top is what came with the slide hammer and is what I used with the 3 mm studs and the mod for the 2 mm studs. I can change back and forth in a few seconds.

    slide hammer HF.jpg
    Stud size summary: the 3 mm studs usually twisted off easily after the area was pulled, but sometimes they didn't hold well. The 2 mm studs never let go early, but I had to grind most of them down after pulling. So no real advantage either way IMO.

    I was able to get maybe 90% of the dents out, and certainly what was left was no deeper then about 1/16". BTW, pics of end caps don't really show the good or bad very well. The REAL problem before I started and certainly at this point is that I had some serious oil canning. On the DS, I couldn't even pull the oil canning out without using both arms on the slide hammer before it immediately popped back in. Ugly it was. Here's some pics that show post stud gun dent removal and the areas of oil canning.

    Inkedstud11_LI.jpg

    oil can locations.jpg

    This is when a mild case of depression hit. But with a little help from some friends (someone should write a song about that!), I was able to successfully remove the oil canning from the PS! First step was to make a dolly where I couldn't reach (which was essentially the entire end cap). I found what I think was/is an old tire bar, ground it down so it would fit into the holes in the bottom of the end caps, then ground some more flat areas.

    Dolly crow bar.jpg
    This tool served as my dolly while I slapped the end cap from the outside. But after a few minutes, I found that it was too tiring, not to mention pretty un-ergonomic holding the bar with one hand and the slapper with the other. So some more back woods engineering solved that issue.

    Dolly leverage.JPG

    I can confirm that my welds on the fuel tank support appear to be doing their job! Anyways, I could move the "dolly" around side to side and up and down as I needed. What I ended up doing to remove the oil canning was to first slightly reshape the metal at the outer curve in the end caps, and then stretch the metal in the middle of the end caps. The next pic illustrates the concave nature of the oil canning on the DS (PS was nearly the same) before I "bumped" the metal.

    stud6.jpg

    And where I'm at as of today (PS only).

    Side view after oil can removal.jpg

    I still have more massaging, slapping, and certainly some body soldering to go, but I think I made it over the hump :clap:. What a great learning experience this has been!

    At this point in this silly story, I have to acknowledge that many folks here have provided great suggestions over the past few weeks (you know who you are) and I thank you very much. But without the (long distance) hand holding and expert advise from Jrc55, none of this would have happened, or at least not in 2019. Many many thanks Jim!

    And finally, because it was trash day here in Evergreen, I finally sent the second half of my previously removed cancer to the great graveyard, hopefully to be reincarnated into some nice 18 gauge mild steel in a few millennia.

    Rusted Panels2.jpg

    Good f&*#ing riddance!
     
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  9. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    So glad to see that you got her! Do you think that I can borrow the certified letter from the manufacturer of the slide hammer? I too would like to modify mine just as you have done. Just want to go through the proper channels:laugh::laugh::laugh:
     
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  10. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Farmall Cub

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    Ive had a slide hammer just like that for over 20yrs...sorry it's under patent, so I request that you stop all futher use of this modified tool until we settle out of court....I'd be willing to to take a couple of your scouts as a down payment though........hahaha

    Looking good by the way....
     
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